doc

Try Don Foggs web site and look for Japanies "box bellows"

I'd try canola oil. It's easily available at the grocery store and when we used it here in a class with Don Fogg at Peters Valley it's harding qualities riviled those of water. Doc

peterng, Your vise is what's known as a caulking vise up in New England. The swage block you have in it was used for shapeing caulks on horse shoes. If you notice though you can remove that block and below it on ratchet like teeth is another block whoes hand screw can be loosened and positioned virtically at a multitude of different hiegths.When the caulking swage is removed and replaced with bolt heading dies the lower block is positioned to support the bottom end of the bolt while upsetting the head in the die. The vise portion was used to help speedily bend heel caulks useing the foot peddle. I suspect that yours was in the western Mass. area as the name Green River was one of the many names used by the Greenfield tool co. in and near Greenfield ,Mass. Doc

Minotaur, mike-hr's solution is probably the best. I just wanted to mention that if you are going to be using any hand held tooling under the PH ( you know with tongs? )that the tools should all be made from 4140. The molybdenum in the alloy acts to prevent crack propogation, thus minimizing danger from shrappinel like spalling of tools.

Youngdylan, If you have seen the videos of the Kinyon style hammers with the Coleman controls you can probably understand what I’m trying to say. The Colman style uses a rod which moves up and down with the tup. On this rod is a contrivance which contacts the limit switches striking them independently to open and close them and tell the pilot valve shuttle to send air to and exhaust one end of the cylinder or the other, these two switches are located one above the other on one side of the rod. Tup stroking is controlled by moving the switches further or closer apart. Now on the Bull style. Imagine this rod is configured at say an angle of 15*from vertical. The switches are placed, one on the right side and the other on the left of this angled rod. The switches do the same thing as in the Kinyon style they tell the pilot or spool valve in a five way valve which end of the cylinder to exhaust and which end to pressurize. This rod is connected to the treadle, as the treadle is depressed it opens the main air supply and moves the rod bottom rearward at the same time. As the rod moves back it contacts the switch that is for downward motion of the tup. The upper end of the rod is connected to the tup (remember 15* angle) and both ends of this rod can pivot around a bolt. This rod is made of two pieces, a square tube in side of which a 3/8” round rod slides. This means the rod can lengthen and shorten as the tup moves up and down. Simultaneously as the tup comes down the rod is shortened and because of the angle as it is shortened the angle must increase say to 25*. This pulls the rod away from the down motion switch and it now contacts the up motion switch as long as the treadle is held down the rod will oscillate between the two switches and the tup will continue to cycle. The harder the treadle is pressed the more air is admitted through the main valve and the faster the tup goes up and down. To try and draw a sketch of this for yourself draw a line slanting from bottom to top to the left at about 15*. Now place dots to the left and right of this line, the one on the right just a bit higher than the one on the left. Place a ruler on edge on this line and twist it to simulate the motion of the rod in the hammer and notice how it will contact one dot and then the other as you twist from the 15* angle down to the 25* and back again. If this is still unclear ask Ciladog if he can send you his shop drawing or a straight on pic of the inside of the control box PS I guess Ciladog beat me to the answer so here's a similar explanation Doc.

Hello youngdylan, The picture of the original limit switch valveing is of my hammer. Ciladog and I are friends and when he seemed interested in building a hammer I proposed building a copy of my old bull. To say the least as Ciladog progressed on his work we learned a lot about limit switch type hammers in a hurry. Since this the only hammer I'm familar with some of what I say be eronious but this what I beleave I've leaned in the process. Kinyon style hammers Bull and perhaps all limit switch hammers work on the same basic princple. A five way valve with lines to and from the hammers cylinder has it's spool shuttled back and forth by the opening and closeing of the limit swithces. These switches must be timed in someway with the up/down stroking of the tup. On the Kenyon style this is accomplished usually with a virtical control rod with ramp that opens and closes the limit switch as it moves past.As it goes past the upper one it opens it, which pushes the spool in the fiveway so air is admitted to the cylinder in such a way as to cause it to descend. When it strikes the lower switch it does the reverse and the tup goes up. On the Bull style hammer the only real difference is this control rod is linked to the tup on one end and to the treadle linkage on the other. The switches are positioned one on either side of this rod and as the treadle is stepped on the rod moves back contacting the down switch and opening the main air supply. As the tup descends the telescopeing control rod moves with it ( You will notice in Ciladog's pictures the rod diagonaly between the two swithes ? )it's set in a diagonal configuration and the movement of it's lower end backward and it's upper end forward as the tup descends causees it scribe a polygonal motion between the two swithches. This motion seems to be the sutble difference that this style hammer has from the others.The two switches can be set to open and close in such a way with such control that one will open at the exact instant that the other has closed. This eliminates any lag time between opening and closeing and thus makes the movement of the tup and it's control very responcive. As I said I and Ciladog have limited exsperience with this work and I hope I've described this in a way which you can understand. Doc

In reply to nakedanvil's sealed container comment. My implication was to mean sealed so that no oil would leak out. Creating all this bother for Tim of finding swarth for the hammer exhaust when all he wants to do is catch the oil seems a big waist of time for a man who needs to spend his time forgeing iron not running to junkyards! The barrel will catch the oil, swarth or no and as far as noise goes the exhaust barrel will be outside.The exhaust noise from a Say Mak is far less than the sound of the hammer itself or even a lawnmower for that matter. Doc

Say Tim, Why bother with the drill chips? The idea is to catch the oil! The only reason I can see for filling the barrel whith anything is perhaps to quite down any noise. If the pipe just dumps into a sealed container that should be enought to solve your problem. Dick

Looks like a Hay-Budden to me