doc

Looks great but I'm afraid it isn't deep enough front to back. Don't ask me how I know. If it were I making this I'd keep everything you've done so far the same except increase it's depth to about 14". I know this works and you can ask me how I know :)

Using two dissimilar metals together will generally cause some galvanic action. Combining the copper with a low iron alloy stainless would be your best bet but I'm sure for you it's probably too late for that now. I don't think what you're doing requires alot of over thought. If the job will be near salt water ( think coastline location) I believe you'd have more to worry about. In an average environment your rivets should last quite a few years without a problem. If you''re still concerned a good urethane based paint or powder coat on your iron should suffice if you don't chip the powder coating.You can also paint the shanks of your rivets during assembly. I'm not certain but I believe you would probably compound your worries if you introduce zinc into the mix, as i believe it would be more reactive with the copper that the iron would be.

Rockstar!!! Absolutely Love what you've said and agree !!!!!!!!

Brads are a form of small nail or tack. Your stating that you are going to make a few ladles makes me think that what you are actually asking about is RIVETS ? If my assumption is correct you shouldn't have to heat the nails you will be using for rivets once you've cut them off to length.As long as you are using standard carpentry nails. Your confusion in calling them BRADS probably comes from the term bradding them over. I don't use this term for fixing a rivet but prefer the term peining.

The filter muffler you're talking about is nothing more than a small engine muffler. They are the type used on older 10, 12 HP engines like Briggs & Stratton. Should be easy enough to purchase. These are what our Say Mak was delivered with from Tom.

Hey Bruce, I think you you should double your wonderment. Look close there are TWO different anvils pictured. Notice hardy hole placement.

This is the respirator I use. You can get it from Miller welding. They offer a number of different filters and fits under your helmet. http://www.zorotools.com/g/00125197/k-G4608362?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=CJjAzb7kgb0CFYN0Ogod4g0ABg

Your forge area is too small for your burners. The back pressure in the fire box is what's causing the burners to puff.

Sorry John , But your link returns a 404 error code.

Which Champion do you mean? The Beaudry or the Lancaster Blower & Forge model.

It should work fine!

How big is the flue in the chimney? If it's only 8" it really isn't large enough.

Roll up a piece of news paper to plug the end of the pipe and stop the heat from coming out. ​The major safety concern is Do NOT QUENCH the hot end with your hands or face anywhere near the opening of the cool end. Steam can rocket out and give you a scalding burn!!!!!!!

Send Randy a PM

macbruce , Looks like this pulley will take either A or B according to the spec sheet.

Here this link works! Steel Side-draft Forge and Hood Plans - Beautiful Iron

Unless I'm missing something ?? Your examples seem to be a piece of square or round stock forged with two opposing tapers 90* apart. There is no twist.

Be certain the belts match your pulley width. V-Belts come in different widths A, B, C etc;.

First move your blower outside and install it in the bottom of your elbow ( right angle bend) blowing up! Second close in the opening of your hood to about 12" wide by 16" tall. These suggestions may not make it perfect but will surely improve your forges performance.

Check out this link. It describes building a hood of steel based on a brick forge pattern. There is a drawing with all the dimensions of the brick chimney. I have used the original forge shown in the link and have used a metal example similar to the one described for years. There is no forge chimney that will draw any better. www.beautifuliron.com/steelhoods Can't get the direct link to work so you'll have to type the above link into Google search

The mail thread is going to want to expand as it is heated.The inability to heat the entire length of the screw evenly at "once" makes for spots that will be be expanding at one point along the coil and contracting at another. Also moving it around and rotating it jossels the coils about as they rub against the coal in the fire. Tack welding one end of the coil also restricts even expansion. Heating the rod first and then sliding the coil over will help IF you can get an even heat along it's entire length all at one time without having to move it around in the fire and risk knocking the coil about. The best way to attempt this if you want to do it in a somewhat traditional way is to heat your parts in a muffle on the coal forge. This will allow you to get an even heat without having to move the parts around and it can help prevent some oxidation, especially if you through some charcoal in the muffle as you heat your parts. On the other hand if all you want to do is braze it together use a gas forge. Don't ask me how I know these things :rolleyes:

bworkman : I would google draw filing. There are a number of good explanations there and much more understandable.

What Dave said in most cases.

Never seen that done John. I was only quoting what the old master taught me "was the correct way " many years ago :huh: You're proof to me that your never to young to learn something new in this bizz. I will say though that most early ball finials evidenced here in the U.S. were made as I described though most likely for the reason that they were working wrought iron. Unless they had very good quality iron shouldering at the juncture of ball and tenon would have been risky.

An ordinary tenon is forged on the square bar. Then a collar is wrapped around the end of the tenon, forge welded and shaped into the squat ball. When wrapping the collar be certain not to let the ends meet or it will not weld to the tenon.This is why you shouldn't use a nut. If a nut is used you will end up forging the nut and making it's opening larger, thus preventing it from welding to the tenon