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Tomas Benadik

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  1. Greetings, gentlemen. Many thanks for all your suggestions - I'll run them through my teacher and will get back to you. Frosty - I'll try to get more info about the soil(s) underneath. Swedefiddle - well, it's a house built in about first half of 18th century (of course, rebuilt since then) and the shop is actually first room of the house. Meaning whoever comes to visit must pass next to forge and anvil :) It also means that the china cabinet etc. is *literally* next door. Thank you all again, Tomas
  2. Gentlemen, I can't thank you enough - for your expertise, advice, willingness and words of encouragement. I'll head back to the shop as soon as I can - hopefully this time I'll emerge victorious :) As for my experience so far - I had some some cable and chainsaw Damascus, which is another beast entirely, I understand. I wouldn't be playing around with stainless had it not been for a want of a bit of jewellery - and that would look rather sad when rusty :) Thanks again!
  3. Greetings, gentlemen. I recently tried to do the stainless Damascus for the first time. In my blacksmithing master's shop (not having my own yet) we followed instructions by Ariel Salaverria to the letter (http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/tutorial16.htm). On the first attempt, the container burned through after several minutes, hence the stacked steels were too cold to weld. We thought that perhaps the temperature was too high or there was too much WD40 inside. Hence, on the second attempt we put paper soaked in WD40 only on one end of the container and we poured out WD40 after
  4. Greetings, gentlemen. Apologies for my late reply. Here's some more information: - the hammer is KA-75 (http://www.ka75.com/) - the foundation was a pit 1 meter deep (about 3,3 feet), about 1x1 meters wide. - the pit was filled with cushioning materials - bottom 30 cm are from thick rubber plates, then 50 cm of thick cork plates - the sides of the pit were cushioned with Nobasil (kind of isolation used in Slovakia) - all of it was then fixed in concrete and the hammer was bolted to the floor Does that help? Many thanks!
  5. Greetings, gentlemen. One important question for you, please: My bladesmithing master installed power hammer in his shop - the type embedded in the floor in a deep pit, with proper cushioning (as per instructions). However, when it's put to work, the entire house is shaking - and since it's fairly old house, the end result is that he is unable to use the power hammer at all. It was quite costly, so we're trying to figure out what else can we do to be able to use it. Recently, my master came across notion of some kind of "pneumatic absorption pillows", that could possibly solve this pr
  6. Thank you. Though pardon my ignorance - what do you mean by "resist"?
  7. Hello all, one question regarding stainless Damascus, please. I'm going to try my hand at creating my first billet of stainless Damascus this weekend according to the method described by Ariel Salaverria (his site is unfortunately down at the moment.) I have two steels - N695 and 1.4116. From what I gather this should be very similar to what Markus Balbach uses. The important question is - what happens with the square tube used as a container for the steels? My guess is that it will weld to the steels and have to be ground off, right? Many thanks for your replies, any & all input
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