clinton

Get yourself some Kroil penetrating oil from Kanolabs. Amazing stuff. You can use a jackshaft to get the rpm that you want easier to find a couple of sheaves than the motor Clinton

Hey there blacksmith Steve I do have the spec sheet for the cushions. I will get it to you no problem. And to answer your question about finding a source for the cushion no I did not find any. I did however talk to a gentleman named Phil That is very knowledgeable about power hammers and his advice was to make them using Polyurethane either casting them using a mold or using rod and freezing it then machine on a lathe. Good luck with your hammer looks to be in good condition, myself I would just try to get it going without a total teardown if it turns free it should work just fine.

Michael next time get your hammer up, as soon as you strike raise your hammer. See how I have the hammer raised? You have to get it up to get in rhythm and stay in rhythm. I am probably not the best teacher but I do try at least. Tom Clark was very good at teaching people to strike in a team like this. He was good at lots of other things as well.

"Forging anvil" Brazeal style

"Striking anvil" in use. And yes it did take a beating at midnight madness (Professionals closed course do not attempt)

My "Striking anvil" is 9 1/4 inches long by 4 5/8 inches wide and 3 1/2 inches tall. The legs are 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 inches 1/4 inch wall tube steel.

My striking anvil

That should work just fine. I came in 2 1/2 inches with my hardy hole. I added a 1 inch thick plate under the striking anvil so I would have room to weld on the tube steel legs. With the wide body you should have room to weld the legs direct to the anvil. I filled the tube steel legs with oil soaked sand per Brian Brazeal method. He said "Striking anvil" Frosty not forging anvil

I would stay away from that anvil. According to Mr. Postman the Columbian anvil has a recessed triangle with a raised C. What I am seeing is a raised triangle with a recessed C. I would do a rebound test for sure. Info from Anvils In America pg. 213 It looks like a good anvil cast base obvious

It looks like someone added a new face to that anvil. I see what looks like a weld all the way around, welded then ground down. Maybe I am seeing things. How is the rebound and ring?

The angle is used for forging it is the bottom die, your hammer is the top die. And yes mild steel works just fine, red hot metal is much softer and will move when forging. If you are refering to the striking anvil that Alec uses it has a much different use.

Use a longer piece that you can hold onto. Forge the end to make your music note being carefull not to break it from the parent stock. Once the forging is close you can remove it from the longer bar. Check for vidieos of Brian Brazeal forging rings and you will see the method.

I built a "Brazeal type" anvil like the one in the picture they work very well with little to invest. Use a cutting torch to rough in the shape and then grind smooth

I doubt if any "Collector" of anvils would paint one tike that. You will spend hours trying to remove that paint and will never really get it all off without sandblasting (That I do not recomend) There could be weld repair under that paint I would use a wire wheel on an angle grinder to check the condition of the face at that price. At $1.00 a pound I would take it as is.

I used a drill press, cutting torch, die grinder and a flat file to make the hardy hole in my striking anvil. Basher- the smaller striking anvils are handy when you want to move them, one man and a hand truck and away you go. Mine weighs around 150 pounds after filling the legs with oil sand. And the mild steel is forgiving for all those late night drunken nail- heading sessions. My anvil had several good dings in it after the midnight madness at the CBA spring conference.

Nice build looks good. You do want to use spring it gives the hammer some pop. And yes 7018 is a good rod for dissimilar metals

That looks pretty bad. The face is totally destroyed to fix it you would need to remove all unsound metal and then using the Rob Gunter anvil repair technique weld multible passes to build up a new face. This would be an all day job- just the welding the prep work may take 2 or three days with a grinder. Then another day finishing the new face. If you want to be a blacksmith you should join a group of blacksmiths and go to thier events. Being around this group will help you find the tools that you will need, as well as learning to make the tools that you need.

I have built a treadle hammer but not the same one. I used plans from Valley Forge and Welding. And yes there are some areas that are hard to understand in plans of this nature. On the flat spring I would reccomend doing what the plan calls for. It needs to move freely on this connection. If you forge it around a drift you may have a problem with it being out of round and alingment could be an issue. I used my spring as is no heat treatment. My plans did not use coil spring

This is a common problen with innershield wire, we use .045 NR 212 wire at work and every time I grab a machine that someone else was using I have to check the drive roll tension. It is often cranked all the way down and I wonder how they got anything done. I had one guy that awlays had a problem with the wire, one day he decided that the drive rolls needed oil on them- what a mess.

The way that I was taught to tension the drive rolls is to hold the wire as it comes out of the gun and adjust the pressure so there is just enough to make the wire kink back. As the wire comes out it will bend back. This works best for me

Check for some tension on the spool (the knob in the center of wire roll) you should have a little bit of tension on the roll or it will freewheel and cause a birdsnest Also you want to have just enough tension on the drive rolls to feed the wire, too much drive roll tension will flatten the wire and cause it to jam up in the liner this is a common problem with innershield wire or dualshield in you case. Look at the wire feed tube there is a little part that guides the wire into the gun assembly inside the machine - you want to check this for wear and alingment

Nice find I have a 125 lb Bradley that I picked up a few years back. My hammer needs lots of work before I can run it, I just don't have the time right now. I have a list of repairs to be made- a long list. So I see your hammer has a clutch installed I am interested in seeing how that works, my hammer is a slack belt drive. It looks to me like that was a modification.

What Biggun said the heat affected zone (HAZ)

Good info in that article. Bigger is awlays better when building something. Hydraulic presses are subject to extreme loads so plan accordingly.

You did good Here is a little info on your anvil from Anvils in America- The serial numbers 170001-180000 were manufactured in 1910. The # 38 stamped toward the heel is a steel heat number used for quality control. The base is forged wrought iron what you see are lumps of wrought that were forged together not cast. The weight should be stamped under the logo often hard to make out. I have a Haybudden that has no visable logo left lots of chisel marks.