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Found 9 results

  1. Hello everyone, this is my first time posting on this forum, I started forging as a hobby a couple years ago and I am a beginner in the craft. I forged three blades so far, and only the first didn't break in half and actually made it to being an actual knife, but it was very short in comparison to my third blade. The second blade broke when I tried, foolishly, to straighten it in the vise right after quenching. I come to you for advice on why my third blade broke, so here is the detailed process it went through, from forging to tempering : The steel is from a used crop lifter spring my uncle gave me after it broke : here is a description ; I attached a picture of the specific part I used; I forged it into the rough shape trying to never forge it when it wasn't at least red/orange hot, ground the profile and then the bevels until the cutting edge of the blade was around 1.5 mm thick (thickness of a dime, as many people recommend across all the forums I searched); I use a homemade charcoal forge made of refractory cement bricks; At this point the blade is 14 cm (5.51") long, 24.5 cm (9.65") long in total with the tang, 3 cm (1.18") wide and nearly 4 mm (0.16") thick in the middle with an apple seed grind; I then proceeded to heat it to bright orange before quenching it in brine (10% weight salt solution), as someone recommended on some forum, because oil quenches supposedly too slow for spring steel; the "quench tank" is a piece of PVC pipe It warped badly, so I tried straightening it by first putting it in the jaws of my vise and tightening gently (I didn't hear any cracking noise) right after the quench; Seeing it didn't do anything, I tempered it for 2 hours at 270°C (518°F), tightened between two steel plates; This straightened it a bit, but it was still badly warped, so my plan was to tighten it to a steel plate with a piece of round wire below it to give it some flex in the opposite direction of the warp, and temper it for another hour at 518°F; At this point it started clicking and cracked in half, before I even put it in the oven; Looking at the fracture surfaces, there is a purple coloration in some areas, which means a crack formed before the temper cycle and oxygen got in during the temper cycle (purple corresponding to ~270°C (518°F)). I attached pictures of the fracture surface. My problem here is that I can't determine if this crack originated from the forging or the quench. So I wanted to know if, by looking at it and knowing the process I used, you could help me determine the origins of this crack. By closely looking at the rest of the blade, I can even see another crack, on the same face of the blade as the one who lead to failure. So my conclusion is that the blade would have failed eventually, because there were cracks before the temper. My ideas of improvement are : Quench in oil; I was thinking of canola oil because I have an expired bottle of it; Regularly clean the scale during forging with an angle grinder; Try to straighten only during temper and not in the vise right after quench; I'm in my last year of a material science masters so I have a good understanding of theoretical metallurgy, so don't hesitate to go specific in your explanations. I'm sorry if I sound weird, arrogant or contemptuous but I am French and I don't write or speak English daily. This blade breaking defeated me because I was very satisfied with it. This broke my heart. I come here seeking advice in all humility. Thank you very much in advance for your time. ATTACHMENTS : I put my three pictures in this imgur url : https://imgur.com/a/WU0MAOD
  2. I just saved an anvil from a trip to the scrap yard. It is a Trenton with a crack most, if not all, of the way through at the waist. It was repaired with 2 long bolts from the stand up through the feet and into 2 threaded holes, one under the horn and one near the hardie hole. It has a Trenton stamp visible on the right side with T175 on the front right foot and A36043 on the front left foot. I understand that T is the initial of the maker and that it is 175 lbs. I don't have the date of manufacture but based on some other responses in the forums, I assume something like 1901-1903. Anybody have access to AIA to get the manuf date? I can't confirm 100% but I suspect that the crack runs all the way through. I see 2 small tack welds on the right side but those 2 bolts are doing the job keeping it clamped down to the top of the stand. I'm not new to blacksmithing and metalwork but a repair like this would be a challenge for me. Based on other forum posts, grinding a v 1/2" all the way around and welding it back is only necessary if it cracks all the way through and hasn't been repaired. For the smiths that have been around a while, would you undo a repair like this and try to weld it back? Thanks.
  3. Hi guys, I was attempting to make Damascus yesterday. It is o ly my third time so I still dont quite know what I'm doing. On about the third welding heat it started to crumble and the grain inside looked massive there were all these big cracks running perpendicular to the layers. The welds were all good and there was no problem once I cut the cracked section off but I want to know why this happened. I work outside and it was about -10°C and my anvil was cold could the heat difference in the anvil cause this. Or did I overheat the billet. Although I think that unlikely because it didn't spark. Although I'm working in a coal forge so you never know. The second billet I did that day went wonderfully but by then the anvil was warm... any insight is valued thank you
  4. I've looked for hours around the web, and I know this was a stupid error on my part (wrong kind of heat treat on mystery spring steel, too lazy/hurried to test on a few scraps). The crack actually took place about 8 months ago, and I'm considering revisiting the blade. I don't want to weld or braze the crack shut (or at least not until I ensure that it won't propagate) but I had an idea. For glass, you can sometimes stop a crack by drilling a hole at the termination. I was thinking by using a large enough bit, I might catch even the microscopic end of the crack, and then either cut/grind/weld/fill/heat treat it and have a mostly serviceable blade, and if that fails, at least I still have a nice looking shelf knife. Unfortunately, I already made a sheath for it (before heat treat) but I guess I can re-make a similar enough blade to fit if all else fails. has anyone else used this method on a blade? what degree of success if any? Thanks!
  5. Hi, i recently acquired my fist anvil. It was pretty dirty and rusty and it was dark so I did not notice at first, but when I cleaned it I noticed some nasty damage on my poor anvil. The pictures show the damage. My questions are these: 1. Should I worry at all? 2. Should I try to return it to the man who sold it to me? If I can't do that: 3. Can I fix it? 4. How can I fix it? Thanks for the help, I'm really new to this but my dream is to be a blacksmith and I figured owning an anvil is the first step to that.
  6. A friend offered to sell me a very nice looking anvil. It is roughly 175lbs, low wear, good rebound, and a nice ring. He wants 3$ per pound. I am concerned with the face of the anvil. There is a crack on one side between the face and the body approx. 3" long from the hardie hole forward. Additionally the face depth appears to taper. The face is 1/2" thick up to the hardie hole and then tapers to 1/4" at the heel. I can't identify any sort of brand or markings, other than a few isolated numbers on the back of the foot. He says he will not negotiate on price, should I take it or leave it?
  7. Hey all, thought I would share a partial failure that illustrates some of the mechanics involved in forging mokume billets to provide some more visual reference to the concepts that get slung around as if they are everyday things. I started this billet with 4 English 20 pence coins (they are 84% copper and 16% nickel, unlike the other English 'silver color' coins, which are 75% copper and 25% nickel) sandwiching 3 English 2 pence coins (bronze: 97% copper, 2.5% zinc, 0.5% tin per royal mint spec's, they switched to copper plated steel in late 1992 so consider yourself warned) These were all heavily circulated and pretty far from clean, which I normally avoid or clean, but it was a billet of opportunity so I just went ahead with it. the stack was bolted together in my torque plates which can be seen elsewhere, no flux or containment box, just some whiteout on the plates as an antibond. it is also worth mentioning that the coins in question are NOT the same diameter! the bronze 2P is something like 1/32 or so larger than the nickel 20P. That said, the first thing to point out could be the result of two things: one, the nickel alloy is significantly stiffer than the bronze, when the billet was compressed I suspect that enough bronze was extruded to cause expansion of the outside circumference of the coins which generated enough tension to cause the bronze to crack, as shown. two, could just be a property of the bronze alloy being brittle and crumbly at that high a temperature ultimately I think I am glad that I had the softer metal as a wider disk than the stiffer, because if it was reversed that could lead to a very deep cold shut where the bronze would be pressed flat against the nickel without any bonding. the second and third thing reference the same pic this is after grinding everything down to get rid of the excess copper and some minor bond failures at the very edge, the HUGE delamination was failed from the first heat as I was able to later peel that layer almost entirely off and only about a quarter of the width of the stack was actually bonded, which I was able to chisel off. the two things to look at are again the visible extrusion of the bronze from between the nickel layers, so when working metals of highly dissimilar stiffness you should plan for much greater losses in the softer metal when you have to grind the edges, and start with a thinner gauge of the stiffer metal, which will allow it to deform a little more readily and move with the softer metal a little more, but also it will resist thinning more than the softer metal, so when the billet has been worked down the widths of the two layers will be closer to equal, as the thicker layer of soft metal has been squished down to be closer to the thinner layer of stiff metal. the second thing to look for is something that Ian Ferguson in his book points out as 'unconfined compression stress', which, while an accurate description of the physics is kind of a brain teaser in result. the source of the problem is indeed unconfined compression stress, but this actually is generating tension in the extreme edge of the billet, pulling the layers apart and can cause bond failure. the edges of that billet were ground totally flat, more or less perpendicular to the two faces before the next heats and forgings. through the forging the height of the stack was reduced, which by necessity means that the width must increase, however the top and bottom are locked in place at the moment of impact by friction to the faces of the hammer and anvil and are restrained from expanding at the very face. the sides of the stack are unconfined, so when they are compressed they bulge out in the direction of least resistance. this causes the previously vertical face to bend (look past the extruded bronze, though those layers demonstrate the same phenomenon in their shape as well), this can be most readily seen in the outermost layers, which are now laid back at almost 35-40 degrees from vertical. this bending causes tension to develop along the surface of the edge because the length has increased, as the curved edge is now longer than the straight edge, and that tension can be sufficient to break even solid bonds between layers. moral of the story being to watch your edges when you forge mokume, don't let them bend out too far, and if the billet is large enough you can grind a slight concavity into it to extend the amount of forging time between grindings, as the edge then has to extrude to vertical before it can progress to bulging out and become problematic. I hope this will be helpful to anybody that is getting their feet wet with mokume, I found the concepts quite interesting and when I shot pics of this one in progress I figured it would be beneficial to put pictures to the words as the visuals were pretty extreme in this case.
  8. Hey all, came across a guy that was selling a variety of tools in my city, one of which was a Quikwerk 5" post vise. I ended up paying $140 for it. The thing i am kicking myself for now is that i didnt pay close enough attention to the body when i was checking it out, and it wasnt until i got home that i noticed that it is cracked! it will likely never be used for anything very large, and will not be subjected to a lot of heavy hitting. is something like this repairable if i grind the crack out and weld it back up? or more specifically *have* it welded back up, as i have zero experience with electric welding. can it be used safely without repair if i keep an eye on it? did i just buy an industrial sized paperweight? the threads are also worn and i will likely have to fix or replace the spring too :unsure: the only marking i saw on it was the manufacturers stamp. specs: Quikwerk 5" jaw mfg by warren tool & forge 40" jaw to end of post 60 lb Thank you for your input!
  9. I am making a knife with some old rebar and a tiny crack has appeared is there anything I can do to fix it? It is kind of hard to see in the photo.
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