Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'crack'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
  • Safety
  • Sections
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum

Categories

  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill

Categories

  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Location


Biography


Interests


Occupation

Found 6 results

  1. I've looked for hours around the web, and I know this was a stupid error on my part (wrong kind of heat treat on mystery spring steel, too lazy/hurried to test on a few scraps). The crack actually took place about 8 months ago, and I'm considering revisiting the blade. I don't want to weld or braze the crack shut (or at least not until I ensure that it won't propagate) but I had an idea. For glass, you can sometimes stop a crack by drilling a hole at the termination. I was thinking by using a large enough bit, I might catch even the microscopic end of the crack, and then either cut/grind/weld/fill/heat treat it and have a mostly serviceable blade, and if that fails, at least I still have a nice looking shelf knife. Unfortunately, I already made a sheath for it (before heat treat) but I guess I can re-make a similar enough blade to fit if all else fails. has anyone else used this method on a blade? what degree of success if any? Thanks!
  2. Hi, i recently acquired my fist anvil. It was pretty dirty and rusty and it was dark so I did not notice at first, but when I cleaned it I noticed some nasty damage on my poor anvil. The pictures show the damage. My questions are these: 1. Should I worry at all? 2. Should I try to return it to the man who sold it to me? If I can't do that: 3. Can I fix it? 4. How can I fix it? Thanks for the help, I'm really new to this but my dream is to be a blacksmith and I figured owning an anvil is the first step to that.
  3. A friend offered to sell me a very nice looking anvil. It is roughly 175lbs, low wear, good rebound, and a nice ring. He wants 3$ per pound. I am concerned with the face of the anvil. There is a crack on one side between the face and the body approx. 3" long from the hardie hole forward. Additionally the face depth appears to taper. The face is 1/2" thick up to the hardie hole and then tapers to 1/4" at the heel. I can't identify any sort of brand or markings, other than a few isolated numbers on the back of the foot. He says he will not negotiate on price, should I take it or leave it?
  4. Hey all, thought I would share a partial failure that illustrates some of the mechanics involved in forging mokume billets to provide some more visual reference to the concepts that get slung around as if they are everyday things. I started this billet with 4 English 20 pence coins (they are 84% copper and 16% nickel, unlike the other English 'silver color' coins, which are 75% copper and 25% nickel) sandwiching 3 English 2 pence coins (bronze: 97% copper, 2.5% zinc, 0.5% tin per royal mint spec's, they switched to copper plated steel in late 1992 so consider yourself warned) These were all heavily circulated and pretty far from clean, which I normally avoid or clean, but it was a billet of opportunity so I just went ahead with it. the stack was bolted together in my torque plates which can be seen elsewhere, no flux or containment box, just some whiteout on the plates as an antibond. it is also worth mentioning that the coins in question are NOT the same diameter! the bronze 2P is something like 1/32 or so larger than the nickel 20P. That said, the first thing to point out could be the result of two things: one, the nickel alloy is significantly stiffer than the bronze, when the billet was compressed I suspect that enough bronze was extruded to cause expansion of the outside circumference of the coins which generated enough tension to cause the bronze to crack, as shown. two, could just be a property of the bronze alloy being brittle and crumbly at that high a temperature ultimately I think I am glad that I had the softer metal as a wider disk than the stiffer, because if it was reversed that could lead to a very deep cold shut where the bronze would be pressed flat against the nickel without any bonding. the second and third thing reference the same pic this is after grinding everything down to get rid of the excess copper and some minor bond failures at the very edge, the HUGE delamination was failed from the first heat as I was able to later peel that layer almost entirely off and only about a quarter of the width of the stack was actually bonded, which I was able to chisel off. the two things to look at are again the visible extrusion of the bronze from between the nickel layers, so when working metals of highly dissimilar stiffness you should plan for much greater losses in the softer metal when you have to grind the edges, and start with a thinner gauge of the stiffer metal, which will allow it to deform a little more readily and move with the softer metal a little more, but also it will resist thinning more than the softer metal, so when the billet has been worked down the widths of the two layers will be closer to equal, as the thicker layer of soft metal has been squished down to be closer to the thinner layer of stiff metal. the second thing to look for is something that Ian Ferguson in his book points out as 'unconfined compression stress', which, while an accurate description of the physics is kind of a brain teaser in result. the source of the problem is indeed unconfined compression stress, but this actually is generating tension in the extreme edge of the billet, pulling the layers apart and can cause bond failure. the edges of that billet were ground totally flat, more or less perpendicular to the two faces before the next heats and forgings. through the forging the height of the stack was reduced, which by necessity means that the width must increase, however the top and bottom are locked in place at the moment of impact by friction to the faces of the hammer and anvil and are restrained from expanding at the very face. the sides of the stack are unconfined, so when they are compressed they bulge out in the direction of least resistance. this causes the previously vertical face to bend (look past the extruded bronze, though those layers demonstrate the same phenomenon in their shape as well), this can be most readily seen in the outermost layers, which are now laid back at almost 35-40 degrees from vertical. this bending causes tension to develop along the surface of the edge because the length has increased, as the curved edge is now longer than the straight edge, and that tension can be sufficient to break even solid bonds between layers. moral of the story being to watch your edges when you forge mokume, don't let them bend out too far, and if the billet is large enough you can grind a slight concavity into it to extend the amount of forging time between grindings, as the edge then has to extrude to vertical before it can progress to bulging out and become problematic. I hope this will be helpful to anybody that is getting their feet wet with mokume, I found the concepts quite interesting and when I shot pics of this one in progress I figured it would be beneficial to put pictures to the words as the visuals were pretty extreme in this case.
  5. Hey all, came across a guy that was selling a variety of tools in my city, one of which was a Quikwerk 5" post vise. I ended up paying $140 for it. The thing i am kicking myself for now is that i didnt pay close enough attention to the body when i was checking it out, and it wasnt until i got home that i noticed that it is cracked! it will likely never be used for anything very large, and will not be subjected to a lot of heavy hitting. is something like this repairable if i grind the crack out and weld it back up? or more specifically *have* it welded back up, as i have zero experience with electric welding. can it be used safely without repair if i keep an eye on it? did i just buy an industrial sized paperweight? the threads are also worn and i will likely have to fix or replace the spring too :unsure: the only marking i saw on it was the manufacturers stamp. specs: Quikwerk 5" jaw mfg by warren tool & forge 40" jaw to end of post 60 lb Thank you for your input!
  6. I am making a knife with some old rebar and a tiny crack has appeared is there anything I can do to fix it? It is kind of hard to see in the photo.