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Found 9 results

  1. Hello everyone, this is my first time posting on this forum, I started forging as a hobby a couple years ago and I am a beginner in the craft. I forged three blades so far, and only the first didn't break in half and actually made it to being an actual knife, but it was very short in comparison to my third blade. The second blade broke when I tried, foolishly, to straighten it in the vise right after quenching. I come to you for advice on why my third blade broke, so here is the detailed process it went through, from forging to tempering : The steel is from a used crop lifter
  2. I just saved an anvil from a trip to the scrap yard. It is a Trenton with a crack most, if not all, of the way through at the waist. It was repaired with 2 long bolts from the stand up through the feet and into 2 threaded holes, one under the horn and one near the hardie hole. It has a Trenton stamp visible on the right side with T175 on the front right foot and A36043 on the front left foot. I understand that T is the initial of the maker and that it is 175 lbs. I don't have the date of manufacture but based on some other responses in the forums, I assume something like 1901-1903. Anybody
  3. Hi guys, I was attempting to make Damascus yesterday. It is o ly my third time so I still dont quite know what I'm doing. On about the third welding heat it started to crumble and the grain inside looked massive there were all these big cracks running perpendicular to the layers. The welds were all good and there was no problem once I cut the cracked section off but I want to know why this happened. I work outside and it was about -10°C and my anvil was cold could the heat difference in the anvil cause this. Or did I overheat the billet. Although I think that unlikely because it didn't sp
  4. I've looked for hours around the web, and I know this was a stupid error on my part (wrong kind of heat treat on mystery spring steel, too lazy/hurried to test on a few scraps). The crack actually took place about 8 months ago, and I'm considering revisiting the blade. I don't want to weld or braze the crack shut (or at least not until I ensure that it won't propagate) but I had an idea. For glass, you can sometimes stop a crack by drilling a hole at the termination. I was thinking by using a large enough bit, I might catch even the microscopic end of the crack, and then either cut/grind/we
  5. Hi, i recently acquired my fist anvil. It was pretty dirty and rusty and it was dark so I did not notice at first, but when I cleaned it I noticed some nasty damage on my poor anvil. The pictures show the damage. My questions are these: 1. Should I worry at all? 2. Should I try to return it to the man who sold it to me? If I can't do that: 3. Can I fix it? 4. How can I fix it? Thanks for the help, I'm really new to this but my dream is to be a blacksmith and I figured owning an anvil is the first step to that.
  6. A friend offered to sell me a very nice looking anvil. It is roughly 175lbs, low wear, good rebound, and a nice ring. He wants 3$ per pound. I am concerned with the face of the anvil. There is a crack on one side between the face and the body approx. 3" long from the hardie hole forward. Additionally the face depth appears to taper. The face is 1/2" thick up to the hardie hole and then tapers to 1/4" at the heel. I can't identify any sort of brand or markings, other than a few isolated numbers on the back of the foot. He says he will not negotiate on price, should I take it or leave it?
  7. Hey all, thought I would share a partial failure that illustrates some of the mechanics involved in forging mokume billets to provide some more visual reference to the concepts that get slung around as if they are everyday things. I started this billet with 4 English 20 pence coins (they are 84% copper and 16% nickel, unlike the other English 'silver color' coins, which are 75% copper and 25% nickel) sandwiching 3 English 2 pence coins (bronze: 97% copper, 2.5% zinc, 0.5% tin per royal mint spec's, they switched to copper plated steel in late 1992 so consider yourself warned) These wer
  8. Hey all, came across a guy that was selling a variety of tools in my city, one of which was a Quikwerk 5" post vise. I ended up paying $140 for it. The thing i am kicking myself for now is that i didnt pay close enough attention to the body when i was checking it out, and it wasnt until i got home that i noticed that it is cracked! it will likely never be used for anything very large, and will not be subjected to a lot of heavy hitting. is something like this repairable if i grind the crack out and weld it back up? or more specifically *have* it welded back up, as i have zero exper
  9. I am making a knife with some old rebar and a tiny crack has appeared is there anything I can do to fix it? It is kind of hard to see in the photo.
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