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Everything posted by clinton
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Looks like you may have a Peter Wright that someone put a diamond on How many handling holes does it have? Where is Thomas Powers?
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Are you sure it says Trenton? Trenton anvils have a real thin heel and the horn does not look right on the one you have pictured. Also the bottom of the anvil would have a caplet shaped impression. It does look like there may be a serial number on the front right foot. Can you post a picture of the logo? I do not see it in this set of pictures. The Fisher saw makers anvil in the last photo is nice. How much does it weigh?
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Arm and hammer, is it cracked?
clinton replied to Admanfrd's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
You are seeing the forge weld at the waist I would grab that anvil up if possible. It looks like 145? You would be less than $1.50/ pound -
That must be a big angle grinder or some 1:10 scale track. Maybe he meant 30 minutes
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Trenton
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Can you identify my first anvil?
clinton replied to Beltron50's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
The shape of the horn looks like a Trenton to me, but with no depression on the bottom as Thomas Powers indicated makes me wonder. The under side of the heel does look a little rough so mabe Arm & Hammer? But then I do not see any sign of a weld at the waist that I have noticed on most Arm & Hammer anvils. Using a wire brush mounted on an angle grinder and cleaning the rust off may show some markings. You want to look at the front foot also usually stamped there will be the serial number and maybe weight -
That is a nice looking fork, the working end is well formed, I sometimes have a problem getting the fork even on both sides and not centered just right
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Anvils In America lists the Oak Leaf in the miscellaneous section, "Oak leaf is one of the trademarks of W. Enders Hardware co." It was advertised by the Simmons hardware co in 1913, 1921-1922 & 1930. It was also sold by Shapleigh Hardware St Louis MO There is no mention of who actually made the anvil, but you can get a good idea by looking at the features like handling holes and what the bottom of the anvil looks like. Hay Buds have an hourglass depression on the bottom.
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They do make high impact drywall that is more durable than regular drywall http://www.nationalgypsum.com/resources/faqs/xp.htm
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Oyyya oyyya oyyya you will be missed
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Crown down and put a layer of silicone caulking
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I like the idea of the elevated viewing area. Where is the shop to be located?
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What's a fair price for this anvil?
clinton replied to navasky's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Your next question- How old is it? 1907 according to Anvils In America It looks like its in good shape I think you got a fair deal -
http://www.sawbladestore.com/ This is the place I get my band saw blades from I have cut 4140 with them and they hold up good, just go slow and use coolant
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The list of demonstrators for the 2014 Abana Conference has been released. http://www.abana.org/Conferences/2014/ConferenceDemonstrators.shtml I would like to congradulate Brett Moten of Reno NV and Dennis Dusek of Placerville. Be sure to check out their demo it will be educational and entertaining for sure. It looks like a very good lineup for this conference
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Could use some help identifying my anvil
clinton replied to JohnSmith's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Hay Budden serial # 74050 dates your anvil at 1901 according to Anvils In America. The weight may have been stamped on the side where the other markings are but further down on the waist of the anvil. My Hay Budden has the weight stamped on the front foot but it is not that old -
Common Sense Power Hammer
clinton replied to frankgolding's topic in Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
Hey Frank I have a Commonsense # 2 set up and running in Salinas. You are welcome to come see it and I can send you pictures of how I set mine up. You will find very little info on this hammer the only thing in print that I have found is in Pounding Out The Profits as mentioned earlier, out of print and hardly worth the price for the two paragraphs that refer to this hammer. I did find a chart somewhere that showed this model running at 275 rpm on a 3 hp motor and the weight is 1600 lb Here is a shot of how I set my hammer up, I did not have the line shaft assembly so I used a post to support my motor and jackshaft- 9 replies
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I just picked up this South Bend 11 inch x 5 feet, got it home and moved into the shop. I had to fix the friction clutch it was not engaging there is a 1/8 dia pin that was all buggered up replaced it and now it works just fine. Now I need to sell the 9 inch.
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I thought you may like this one Stuart. John- I re-worked the price a liitle so the misses woundn't get too worked up (there was another 0 in the price) still a bargin you do not find very many anvils over 200 lbs that are for sale out here and this is only the second one that I have found over 400 lbs for a reasonable price
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I recently picked up this Hay Budden anvil 432 lbs. I just got around to building a stand now I can try it out. And the stump that it came on is now something I can use- firewood
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So your anvil was made before 1940 around 1935 according to Anvils in America. So it was forge welded and probably looked like this This is my 84 lb Arm & Hammer you can see how the forge weld looks incomplete. Some one may have welded over this type of defect to prevent failure
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I do not think that they welded the anvils with the beads running up and down like that, but in the other axis around the anvil. What is the serial # on the front foot under the horn? If it is a number lower than 46555 it was probably forge welded according to the info that I see in Anvils in America. Around 1940 is when they began arc welding the base on. I have an 84 lb Arm & Hammer that was forge welded and it looks like it may fail at the weld. Someone may have welded over that type of a defect on your anvil I would not worry about the weld you got a good deal
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When to break down and buy that piece of equipment?
clinton replied to KYBOY's topic in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
I am with Smooth bore I Pick up every thing that is too good to pass up any excuse to buy a new tool is good enough for me -
Looking good Fe-Wood. Is it wrought iron or mild steel? That is nice form and moving lots of metal
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Chuck it and find more material. Maybe try slitting and drifting some smaller sized mild steel and get some practice before moving to heavier stock. I do not think you can really fix a hole like that in a reasonable amount of time. You may ruin it with too many heats.