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I Forge Iron

Scrap iron suitable for saw blade


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I can think of much easier ways to make a frame saw. What's available at a scrap yard is going to depend on local industry. Who local uses high carbon sheet steel for their products? You need to start calling around on the telephone, web searches are notoriously useless for this kind of information and testing not much if any better. 

IDing it at the scrap yard is the other issue. Even if it's there the guys are unlikely to know what's what, I don't know of any yards that pay more for HC steel if it's in a common shape. The only one around here that would talk to me as of a few years ago doesn't pay extra for springs no matter the shape but DOES charge more if you buy. No longer, they signed single buyer contracts years ago so they're not an option. The wrecking yard up the road wants to charge nearly new spring prices. 

You can buy new high carbon steel in a variety of sizes in small quantities for reasonable. I can't reliably recall suppliers my  memory stinks and I don't have them bookmarked.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I think rather than going and finding a peice of metal at the scrap yard that may or may not work, or going and buying new steel to make a blade from, i would just buy  a blade. Just quick look for a local place here they carry them for wood and metal priced between $5 and $15 (USD) depending on length. 

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Green wood blades are common in the stores over here. many lengths and work perfectly for frame saws. For a dry wood blade you can buy one, or repurpose an old saw blade. Since you want to make your own I'm guessing you are familiar with reshaping or refiling saw teeth.

~Jobtiel

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I think Rob needs to clarify here, I took his OP to mean he wanted to make a saw "Frame", not a saw "Blade." Without the specifics I assumed (sigh) he was asking about the component that is more reasonable to make.

I took a page from the, "Thomas Powers Book of Improvised tools," and use metal bandsaw blades in my bow saw frame but would use wood bandsaw blades were I wanting to cut wood.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Indeed, it’s the blade.  I can buy one for about $80, so I will need to come in well under that to make this worth the effort.  Note that I don’t want to sell them, just make one for my one use should the need arise, I.e. having to resaw some lumber.

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I can't imagine a scenario where you could make an effective blade replacement for under $80 if you factor in the materials, time, losses due to learning the correct heat treatment, saw setting tool you need to properly set the teeth... Also I'm not sure specifically what size replacement blade you are looking for as google searches show the simple type selling for the $20 range, even from fairly expensive vendors like Peck Tools.  Of course if you want one with a Japanese style tooth layout they get up in price, but I sincerely doubt you can match that configuration without some serious tooling and a major time investment:

p-598-170-2777_med.jpg

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The blade in question was specifically for resawing.  It’s about 4 feet long, 3-1/2” wide and has 3 TPI.(Commercial link removed do a search for Blackburn Tools Roubo Style Frame Saw)(actually, I see it’s $70)

The question remains, though.  Is there anything sufficiently thin and high carbon that would likely be found in a scrapyard?

Edited by Mod30
Commercial link removed per ROS
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You might check with you local saw mills. They may have large heavy gauge band saw blades that they scrap. I got a short section of one at one of our hammer-ins a few years ago:

5E6AE445-6A3A-4D6A-AB4A-1C5870075C12.jpeg.8c3727ed229ab2820e4ea593efb0f627.jpeg

It’s right at 3/32” thick and probably 15N20. At least it’s high carbon and etches very bright in a billet.

Keep it fun, 

David

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Good Morning Dave,

I also have some of that Bandsaw Blade. The pieces I have were the main Saw blade. My hunting partner feeds the Mill with a 'Button Top Loader'. Imagine a large excavator with grapples instead of a bucket, connected to a hydraulic motor to control the rotation of the Log. Imagine an 80 foot, 4 foot diameter Log that needs to be picked up from the deck and turned end for end to feed into the Sawmill. The main saw blade hit something as it was cutting and the Blade blew up. This happened at the precise moment Joe was walking beside the Saw Head. He heard an awful bang and it started raining saw blade bits. No they don't harden the blade and they have a tool that upsets the saw blade material into itself for the tip, to create the curf. No Carbide teeth.

I have made numerous Blades for Native Carvers. They love them.

Neil

 

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Yes, refiling resaw blade that is NOT 8" wide will most likely have fewer issues than trying to keep a large one sawing straight.  Any chance of finding an old school saw sharpener that can help?  I would definitely start small and work your way up as your skills develop.

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For normal resawing of smaller boards a normal 7 tpi rip saw will work just fine. Filing old saw blades from a mill for ripping is also not difficult, and with some practice, the teeth can be set with a hammer only. The question is, is all this worth 70 dollars to you? I know I'd rather spend the money to buy the blade than to go through the hassle, even with having all the tools and a little bit of skill for filing and setting saw teeth.

Don't forget to buy saw files if you intend to do it yourself, normal triangle files are missing the teeth on the edges to properly form the gullets.

~Jobtiel

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