jrmysell Posted July 21, 2021 Share Posted July 21, 2021 Some one locally (Amarillo, TX) posted some 30’ sucker rod in 1/2”, 5/8”, 3/4” diameters. It looks like most types are around 4130/4140 steel and makes great usable steel. He wants $8/piece which seems not to bad for 30’ plus the end could make a good hardy. However, I did some reading and it looks like we have sour wells around here so there’s a chance they could be from that. Is there a way to tell for sure? And do the fumes only get released when heating? Would it be fine if cutting it down with a bandsaw or reciprocating saw? And if my forge is in my open driveway would that be ok, or best to just avoid at all costs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purple Bullet Posted July 21, 2021 Share Posted July 21, 2021 I don't think you have any risk from H2S per se. When heating, sulfides may result in the release of small amounts of sulfur dioxide which is nasty stuff as well. Unlike H2S which starts with a rotten egg smell, but if the concentration is strong enough, it deadens your sense of smell, sulfur dioxide is an irritant that creates a sulfurous acid when it comes in contact with water. It will probably make you stop what you are doing at levels before becoming immediately dangerous to life or health. You could manage this with good ventilation (which you should have anyway) but I can't guarantee the metal will be worth messing with. The addition of sulfur tends to make alloys more susceptible to cracking. The reason they change it out (and its so cheap) is because after long exposure to H2S, it becomes susceptible to H2S cracking, a form of embrittlement similar to stress corrosion cracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted July 22, 2021 Share Posted July 22, 2021 If you google like this "sucker rod iforgeiron.com" without the quotes, you will get many threads on the subject. Here is but one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrmysell Posted July 22, 2021 Author Share Posted July 22, 2021 I've read through that thread already (along with a few others). The big question I had was if it would be safe as there is a chance it had been used in sour wells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojo Pedro Posted July 22, 2021 Share Posted July 22, 2021 If its rusty and you have good ventilation, I would just use it... I heard xxxx will counter any ill effects if you are up wind and its an IPA. Not an expert but works for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 22, 2021 Share Posted July 22, 2021 If a stout won't work then it might not be worth it. How about hooking it up to a hose and flushing it out? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purple Bullet Posted July 22, 2021 Share Posted July 22, 2021 That would take a long time with VERY high pressure. Sucker rod is solid rod. The question as I understood had to do with safety of something coming from sour service (high H2S). As I said, I don't think there is a safety issue, but, and I should have added "theoretically" because I've never tried to forge metal from sour service, sulfides MAY be present that degrade the steel quality. Does anyone have any practical experience with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 22, 2021 Share Posted July 22, 2021 I may wander over to MatSci and ask a corrosion expert about it; but it may be after the fall semester starts. Profs are thin on the ground right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeJustice Posted July 22, 2021 Share Posted July 22, 2021 The OP got me sucked down a rabbit hole. I had no idea what a "Sour Well" was. So I googled... I read this paper: https://www.longdom.org/open-access/safe-practices-in-drilling-and-completion-of-sour-gas-wells-2157-7463-1000293.pdf It addresses some of the questions asked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purple Bullet Posted July 22, 2021 Share Posted July 22, 2021 After a quick review of Lee's link, (thanks, LeeJustice) I would guess that IF it came from sour service you would still be suitable as long as you ground it down to bare, smooth metal before forging. If you don't see any black powdery deposits (iron sulfide) in heavy pitting then it was probably in sweet service and you are good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 22, 2021 Share Posted July 22, 2021 And where do those grindings go? I agree that absence of pitting would be a good indicator to go with; though you may exclude some old sucker rod pitted by weather exposure. Again generally sucker rod is easily found in areas it's used and so "missing" some is not going to be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeJustice Posted July 22, 2021 Share Posted July 22, 2021 On 7/21/2021 at 7:45 AM, jrmysell said: And do the fumes only get released when heating? Would it be fine if cutting it down with a bandsaw or reciprocating saw? And if my forge is in my open driveway would that be ok, or best to just avoid at all costs? The Hydrogen Sulfide is long gone. What would remain is the products of interaction with the H2S, Iron Sulfide and perhaps hydrogen embrittlement. You could grind/sand with a dust collector and respirator. (Should always use respirator/mask always anyway). Or you could wet sand, provided that you don't introduce harmful by products into your waterways, environment. Search link here: https://www.google.com/search?q=Iron+sulfide+interaction+with+water&oq=Iron+sulfide+interaction+with+water&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i22i29i30.12136j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 You are welcome Purple Bullet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purple Bullet Posted July 23, 2021 Share Posted July 23, 2021 The only safety issue I am aware of is that iron sulfide is pyrophoric. When I worked in a refinery we had periodic "Turn Arounds" when repairs and cleaning that couldn't be done while running was performed. When piles of wet iron sulfide were left out and started to dry you could see smoke coming from the pile. I never saw it ignite anything but if it is disbursed and not allowed to accumulate it shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 23, 2021 Share Posted July 23, 2021 Radiation is a minor issue as companies are required to mitigate the Problem before selling it (most scrap dealers check to be sure before buying it. magnetism isn’t much of a problem for us as heating to the Currie point cures that as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 23, 2021 Share Posted July 23, 2021 Well I know that my local scrapyard doesn't check; it's just back the truck to the pile and throw/drop it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrmysell Posted July 24, 2021 Author Share Posted July 24, 2021 I ended up buying 10 pieces 3/4" 26' long for $60. Cut them into 3rds to haul them. Will get 20 hardies out of them. Rest will go into punches/drifts/crow bar/etc. And thanks for the info everybody! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWISTEDWILLOW Posted July 24, 2021 Share Posted July 24, 2021 Make some triangle dinner bells to! You could sell a couple and then pay yourself back the material cost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrmysell Posted July 24, 2021 Author Share Posted July 24, 2021 Ooh I hadn't thought of that. Good practice for drawing out too doing that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWISTEDWILLOW Posted July 24, 2021 Share Posted July 24, 2021 I just figured that would be a way to get your money back, then you could make a bunch a tools and what ever is left over after that, you could forge to sell more stuff and make enough money to buy more sucker rod and repeat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 26, 2021 Share Posted July 26, 2021 I picked up a sucker rod end at the scrapyard Saturday. Had enough rod on it that it will become a ball stake for an armourer as I have several mill balls in my "possibles" pile already. The end forges down to fit a hardy hole nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrmysell Posted July 27, 2021 Author Share Posted July 27, 2021 That was the big reason I was interested in sucker rod was for the shape/size/material for hardy/bottom tools. I'll need to make some tongs though to hold it. I'll probably make a pair out of a piece of it where I can leave it long enough to not need tongs for it then from there can start making smaller things with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 27, 2021 Share Posted July 27, 2021 Jrmy, I made a set using two lug wrenches as they have the ends almost "premade" and are usually of good medium to HC steel---don't quench! Lug wrenches are on my "always buy" list when I'm at the scrapyard. Though I have found it very difficult to get two of matching size of lug nut and length. I keep piling them up thinking that the *next* one has gotta match one I already have! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluerooster Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 What I'm familiar with being called "sucker rod" comes from water wells. The rod from the oil/gas industry we allways called "polish rod" . And it's usually surface hardened, and polished, much like what would be found in a hydraulic cylinder. Folks use them to make nice looking racks for their pickups, They stay shiny, and don't rust (much). They also use the pump balls for finials on the corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purple Bullet Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 Sometimes local use takes on a certain meaning, but my understanding is that sucker rod is sucker rod, whether its pumping oil, water or mud. Polish rod OTOH is the last joint that goes through the annulus and attaches to the beam of the pump. That's what I seem to recall anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 Purple Bullet you are right on. The polish rod, usually chrome plated for low friction, is the first and uppermost joint in the pump string on an oil pump. It moves up and down through the stuffing box on top of the tubing string, which seals and lubricates the polish rod. Sucker rods are the next joint(s) of the pump string below the polish rod all the way down to the bottom hole pump. Polish rods are smooth and shiny, sucker rods are not. Wiki photo attached...might have to be zoomed in to see details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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