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I Forge Iron

jrmysell

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Everything posted by jrmysell

  1. I agree about leatherworker dot net. They are great
  2. Knives overall but I haven't actually forged any yet (I do stock removal so far) but making tools is what I enjoy pretty much more than anything else.
  3. That makes sense on the hardy. I'll spin it around next time I get a chance to forge. I haven't run into that issue yet as I have no hardies yet but getting there!
  4. Not sure that Motor is gonna be savable. Also picked up also free the Craftsman jointer and band saw Both of those run. Band saw does need a blade though
  5. I got that same anvil about 2-3 months ago. I don't have any issues with it, but don't really know if I was as it's my first ever anvil. Rebound is great. Haven't used the hardy yet as I'm working on some tongs to hold the material that'll fit in there (sucker rod ends). Reading what you said about the round horn to your right, I've been using it backwards from that, haha. Round horn has been to my left. Drawing out the reins for the tongs I've been laying it along the shelf perpendicular to the anvil face. Not sure how wrong that is. I really need to find an experienced smith to just show me the basics. But I haven't found anyone around me. Dallas or OKC seem the closest ABANA meets I've found. But I've enjoyed hitting hot metal on it so far.
  6. Nice! I will also be getting a free non-running table saw. My uncle used to do contractor work and has retired and moved away. I recently asked him how much he wanted for the table saw (Delta contractor saw), a jointer (Craftsman floor model) and bandsaw (also a Craftsman I believe 12") and he said he wouldn't ever use them again so I could just have them. The jointer runs, the table saw does not and I can't get to the bandsaw until I move the table saw. I should be getting them tomorrow.
  7. I like that idea but seems much harder to do without tongs to begin with. I have a set but they don't hold this flat bar very well. For the set I'm working on I got the reins drawn out a little more to a better length, go them split and did the indention for the bend. Will do that next time. It was getting real hot forging today in 100+ Texas heat. Figured stopping and preparing for the next part would be better than messing something up, hot and dehydrated.
  8. That’s awesome! Congrats! My cousin called me and said he replaced coils on about 7 cars last week. Gave me all the old springs. Also got the sliding vise cleaned up and lubricated. Lateral screw is slightly tight, depth screw spins great though
  9. I called the company that sells the leaf springs. They said their spec sheets says 5160 or equivalent. I’m gonna assume that’s correct (most of what I found for semi leaf springs says 5160 or 6150). Won’t make knife blades from them just in case but may eventually try some forge welding and make a couple axe heads
  10. My dad works for Peterbuilt in the parts department. I asked him what they do with changed leaf springs/axels, etc. He told me to come out and see him today. Brand new set of leaf springs off a semi as they wanted a bigger set for this particular truck. About 500# of steel. I read they could be 5160 but more likely 6150. There is a company sticker on there with model number. I'll give them a call and see if they use a set steel or not. Either way I'll probably use it for punches and maybe forge weld some into axe heads. They are about 2.5" wide and 0.5" thick. Smallest piece about 8" longest about 3 ft Also picked these up for $25 total. Need some work but that's fine for the price.
  11. I picked these up today all for $25. I probably would have paid that just for the biggest one, but they wanted them gone so all 3 are now mine. The first is a 4 1/2" Brink & Cotton machinist vise, the other 2 are x/y sliding vises. The Vicro Kuei is a 3". The other I can't quite read the name plate on it. It appears to start with DE then either a space or the letter is too worn down aand I can't tell past that. It does have a 100 on the other end. The Vicro needs a new handle for one of the slides and needs to have the main screw cleaned up. The other 2 both open and close completely. Just dirty but that's an easy fix.
  12. I am doing it this way first to not use tongs. Once I get the reins done, I can cut the middle and do the boss/bits. I thought about welding reins on as well, but need practice drawing out so this is good practice. Once I feel comfortable drawing out, that's probably what I'll do.
  13. I'm working on some flat bar tongs from 1/4" x 1" x 24" bar stock. I got the reins on both sides forged out but the shoulders aren't even. I also measured and they aren't quite long enough according to the chart up top here. So I need to create a new shoulder for the boss and draw some more out on each end for the reins, but I have enough material that shouldn't be an issue. But it's going fairly well. I'm happy with my progress considering all I've done before this is a few leaf keychains.
  14. This has been a great explanation stemming from me asking if they would work or not! I started to forge one end as a hardy but need to make some tongs to actually hold that big of stock. So that's my next project. Then to punches and a hardy and some bottom tools from it.
  15. I'm wanting to eventually make some hammers and I'm by myself most times so no striker and no power hammer. So I'm making a guillotine tool for bottom and top fullers for the necks. Most of what I read/watched says don't use mild for that as they'll eventually bend/mushroom too much. S7 and H13 are recommended quite a bit for those type of tools from what I've read on here with H13 seeming to be slightly preferred. My issue is finding H13 flat bar where I don't have to pay triple digits. Hudson Tool has it at a decent price but apparently they have a min of $250 for flat stock now. I can find round much cheaper, but obviously I'll need it in flat for dies for my guillotine tool. So now to my actual question. If I buy 1.5" round in H13 would that be too much to hand forge down to 1/2" thick x slightly over 2"? Or is S7 good enough where I should just buy it? I found a 2' length of 1/2" x 2.5" S7 for $45. Is that better than trying to forge the H13? It's cheaper than the same length round H13. Its also somehow cheaper than 4140 in flat in the same size.
  16. That was the big reason I was interested in sucker rod was for the shape/size/material for hardy/bottom tools. I'll need to make some tongs though to hold it. I'll probably make a pair out of a piece of it where I can leave it long enough to not need tongs for it then from there can start making smaller things with it.
  17. Ooh I hadn't thought of that. Good practice for drawing out too doing that.
  18. I ended up buying 10 pieces 3/4" 26' long for $60. Cut them into 3rds to haul them. Will get 20 hardies out of them. Rest will go into punches/drifts/crow bar/etc. And thanks for the info everybody!
  19. I've read through that thread already (along with a few others). The big question I had was if it would be safe as there is a chance it had been used in sour wells.
  20. Some one locally (Amarillo, TX) posted some 30’ sucker rod in 1/2”, 5/8”, 3/4” diameters. It looks like most types are around 4130/4140 steel and makes great usable steel. He wants $8/piece which seems not to bad for 30’ plus the end could make a good hardy. However, I did some reading and it looks like we have sour wells around here so there’s a chance they could be from that. Is there a way to tell for sure? And do the fumes only get released when heating? Would it be fine if cutting it down with a bandsaw or reciprocating saw? And if my forge is in my open driveway would that be ok, or best to just avoid at all costs?
  21. Got my new Holland anvil 125# double horn with upsetting block and side shelf. It's mounted on pressure treated 4x4 and 4x6's, silicone in-between and a chain wrapped around it and lag screwed into place to hold it down. And it cut down on the ring greatly. I welded up the hammer rack for it and added casters to the side to just lean it over and roll it outside. The forge is also on casters and rolls outside. Tonight was the first night I got to use it. Made a leaf keychain from a piece of rebar, I know it's not best but it's what I have laying around. I'm planning on making a bunch of them until I get better hammer control then move to something else and do a bunch, etc. Rebound is slightly better than 90% on the face, the cone horn is a little less maybe 60-70%. Outside the pritchel hole there is no rebound but out there I'm guessing that's not uncommon. Side shelf, upsetting block and sides all have some rebound as well. I'm very happy with it. Can't wait until I can do an entire day forging on it instead of just a couple hours.
  22. On the top face. From what I have read, the block at the bottom is usually referred to as an upsetting block. Is that correct?
  23. I am interested in starting to forge (do stock removal knives now, but don't want to forge just knives) and am looking at all the different anvils. My question is, what is the purpose of the side shelf, for example on the Refflinghaus anvils?
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