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I Forge Iron


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    Amarillo, TX

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  1. I'm wanting to eventually make some hammers and I'm by myself most times so no striker and no power hammer. So I'm making a guillotine tool for bottom and top fullers for the necks. Most of what I read/watched says don't use mild for that as they'll eventually bend/mushroom too much. S7 and H13 are recommended quite a bit for those type of tools from what I've read on here with H13 seeming to be slightly preferred. My issue is finding H13 flat bar where I don't have to pay triple digits. Hudson Tool has it at a decent price but apparently they have a min of $250 for flat stock now. I can find round much cheaper, but obviously I'll need it in flat for dies for my guillotine tool. So now to my actual question. If I buy 1.5" round in H13 would that be too much to hand forge down to 1/2" thick x slightly over 2"? Or is S7 good enough where I should just buy it? I found a 2' length of 1/2" x 2.5" S7 for $45. Is that better than trying to forge the H13? It's cheaper than the same length round H13. Its also somehow cheaper than 4140 in flat in the same size.
  2. That was the big reason I was interested in sucker rod was for the shape/size/material for hardy/bottom tools. I'll need to make some tongs though to hold it. I'll probably make a pair out of a piece of it where I can leave it long enough to not need tongs for it then from there can start making smaller things with it.
  3. Ooh I hadn't thought of that. Good practice for drawing out too doing that.
  4. I ended up buying 10 pieces 3/4" 26' long for $60. Cut them into 3rds to haul them. Will get 20 hardies out of them. Rest will go into punches/drifts/crow bar/etc. And thanks for the info everybody!
  5. I've read through that thread already (along with a few others). The big question I had was if it would be safe as there is a chance it had been used in sour wells.
  6. Some one locally (Amarillo, TX) posted some 30’ sucker rod in 1/2”, 5/8”, 3/4” diameters. It looks like most types are around 4130/4140 steel and makes great usable steel. He wants $8/piece which seems not to bad for 30’ plus the end could make a good hardy. However, I did some reading and it looks like we have sour wells around here so there’s a chance they could be from that. Is there a way to tell for sure? And do the fumes only get released when heating? Would it be fine if cutting it down with a bandsaw or reciprocating saw? And if my forge is in my open driveway would that be ok, or best to just avoid at all costs?
  7. Got my new Holland anvil 125# double horn with upsetting block and side shelf. It's mounted on pressure treated 4x4 and 4x6's, silicone in-between and a chain wrapped around it and lag screwed into place to hold it down. And it cut down on the ring greatly. I welded up the hammer rack for it and added casters to the side to just lean it over and roll it outside. The forge is also on casters and rolls outside. Tonight was the first night I got to use it. Made a leaf keychain from a piece of rebar, I know it's not best but it's what I have laying around. I'm planning on making a bunch of them until I get better hammer control then move to something else and do a bunch, etc. Rebound is slightly better than 90% on the face, the cone horn is a little less maybe 60-70%. Outside the pritchel hole there is no rebound but out there I'm guessing that's not uncommon. Side shelf, upsetting block and sides all have some rebound as well. I'm very happy with it. Can't wait until I can do an entire day forging on it instead of just a couple hours.
  8. On the top face. From what I have read, the block at the bottom is usually referred to as an upsetting block. Is that correct?
  9. I am interested in starting to forge (do stock removal knives now, but don't want to forge just knives) and am looking at all the different anvils. My question is, what is the purpose of the side shelf, for example on the Refflinghaus anvils?
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