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What did you do in the shop today?

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It holds it but it has some give to it.  Brick dust stiffens it, oil makes it softer when you are mixing your own up.  Commercially it's sold in several "hardness grades".

Theophilus describes making it from ground brick or tile, pitch and beeswax; probably a later recipe than the one John learned in school...

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I made a wind bell from a welding gas valve cover, some small chain and 1/4" rod and then did most of the forging for another rasptle snake.

SHC, it is almost always a LOT cheaper to have your own propane tanks refilled than exchanging them.  Maybe a little less convenient but with exchanging you are paying good money for convenience and the hassle of faulty valves. Blue Rhino?

However, I just discovered that you have to have your own propane tanks recertified for pressure every 12 years.  I just took one of my 30# tanks to be refilled and was refused because it was out of certification.  I am having it tested now and it will be good until 2034.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

I’ve never been refused to fill my hand me down tanks,

but they did tell me to ditch a couple of old ones because they had the old style valves and technically they weren’t supposed to fill them, 

so I quit using those and picked up some more at yard sales; 

a lot of times someone has a junky grill for sale at a yard sale and it comes with a tank, so if I can get it for $10 bucks or less I’ll pick it up, then throw the grill in the scrap trailer and keep the tank, 

 

To be clear: this is rosin, not resin. There are lots of kinds of resin in the world, of which rosin is one — specifically, the sap of conifers from which the volatile components have evaporated out. Here is some pine rosin I bought for this project, broken up a bit for easier melting:

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Unlike epoxy or phenolic resins, for example, rosin can be remelted quite easily. With the addition of brick dust (or plaster of Paris) for bulk and oil or wax for malleability, it both provides support and still has enough give to move with the metal. 

Lowes was selling empty new tanks for around $40. So tank and grill for scrap for $10. is a deal if they will fill it. 

I’ve taken an expired tank to Airgas and had them exchange it without any issues, even though they knew it was out of cert. 

I'm sure there are places that care more than others. I've never had a tank refused if the coupler fit. I have an old tank with the old style coupler but never tried to get it filled. It was given to me for recycling. 

I always refill until one goes out of spec. Then exchange that one for one with years left on it and refill the "newer" one.

JHCC, I learned something new agin!

I thought it was the same stuff, like what they trap business cards in on top of dining tables in cafes! 

lol I’ve been setting here trying to wrap my head around how that stuff was soft? 

Daswulf, like I said a little while ago, ive never bought a tank new, I just scrounge them up like I do everything else, lol

to me there not worth much so I only buy them at yard sales or auctions, for a few bucks, 

im mean seriously there’s millions of those things everywhere an I never saw much sense in paying much for one, 

Your right some places are strict but others don’t bother even looking,

I did get rid of the old bottles I had with the old style valves though just in case I’d catch flak in the future 

 

 

Back when I lived in in Columbus Ohio; a lot of propane grills were junked instead of being stored at the end of the season in the older sections of town where houses didn't have garages  and most of the space in the local stables has already been converted for other uses.  Lots of good, even full, bottles left at the curb!

TW, a lot of artificial resins (such as epoxy) harden by chemical reaction. On the other hand, most natural resins harden by the evaporation of some solvent, whether animal (shellac), vegetable (rosin), or mineral (bitumen).

17 minutes ago, JHCC said:

TW, a lot of artificial resins (such as epoxy) harden by chemical reaction. On the other hand, most natural resins harden by the evaporation of some solvent, whether animal (shellac), vegetable (rosin), or mineral (bitumen).

So, would hide glue be considered a rosin? I had a bunch of it once. Not sure where it is now.

George, you just seem to read me.  Yes, blue rhino. Their gas also seems to run out quicker too. I don’t know what’s up with that. Amerigas seems to burn longer and I never had an issue with their tanks. Only switched to BR for convenience.

I have been strongly considering getting a bigger tank, or just getting a permanent tank out here. Could just get it refilled when I get the tank refilled for the house. 

No forging for me today.  A culmination of video editing or the last 3 days did get out the 2nd part of the box jaw tong video. 
 

 

Got the blade and handle shaped a bit more. Etched the blade in heated vinegar till my double boiler plan failed. The jar broke. I know, in all the junk I have.....

Couldn't find a metal container the right size at the moment. And I was feeling lazy. 

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52 minutes ago, Randy Griffin said:

So, would hide glue be considered a rosin? I had a bunch of it once. Not sure where it is now.

Not a rosin, to be sure, as it's not made from pine resins. I'm not sure it can be considered a resin, though. Natural resins are produced by plants or insects as resins, while hide glue is the result of some significant processing of animal remains, even if its hydrolyzed collagen behaves rather like a natural resin. It's not a synthetic resin, as they harden irreversibly by chemical action, which hide glue doesn't.

Please note that I'm not a chemist, so all of this could be completely wrong. Except the rosin part, which I'm quite certain of.

Finished up work on my necklace pendant I started a couple weeks ago. Previously had done only the twist, today I ground and drilled it then braided the string for it out of some smaller waxed thread. FF6ABBB2-DF17-45F6-AC01-A7959BF9F579.thumb.jpeg.adcb6cb9f93290486e96056c2ea15786.jpeg

Nice work Nathan. Even branding the string is a lot of work. 

I think it depends a lot on the supplier and employee as to how scrupulously tank certification is enforced.  Some will be pretty strict and others don't give much of a care.

I've been thinking about a large tank at the shop to fuel both a propane furnace and forge(s).  I'm getting tired of schlepping large, full tanks around.  A full 30# tank is about as much as I can handle.  It would mean plumbing in propane supply piping and having it tested.  This time of the year the alley is drifted shut with snow and I've got to move empty and full tanks up and back to the front driveway (about 200') through the shoveled path to the shop.  This is one of the climate trade offs that y'all in more southern climes do not have to deal with.  On the other hand, I don't have to deal with high heat and humidity during the summer (the absolute record high temperature in Laramie is 94 degrees). Ya' pays your money and ya' takes your choice.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

I have a half dozen or so 20lb propane bottles and the place with the lowest price that is near to me will not fill them if they have expired dates on them.  That is because they also  sell new bottles so many will pay for a new bottle when they can't get the expired one filled.  The place also charges a disposal fee to get rid of your expired bottle.  I take my expired bottles to Walmart and get a Blue Rhino exchange bottle.  And so you know, the Blue Rhino bottles only have 15lbs of propane in them, that's why they run out quicker.  When those are emptied I can then take them to the other place and get them filled with 20lbs.  I am going to get one of the 100lb bottles I have recertified one of these days.

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