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What did you do in the shop today?


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Army, I was asked if I could make a bearded hand ax.  They showed me a picture of a one handed "viking" style ax.  My current propane  forge can't weld so I'm going to have to punch and drift the eye.  But I'm trying it for myself first.   Odds are the person who asked would find the cost prohibitive so it'll likely go on the stack of forged and in progress blades. 

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I have found that the old shingler's hatchets can make a nice small bearded hatchet with no hot work involved.  I made this one with only my angle grinder.  And yes I need to replace the handle; students are rough on equipment---even when camping!

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This style of shingler's hatchet is still being sold new, but I pick them up for a USdollar or less at the fleamarket, garage sale and scrapyard.

Take a piece of chalk and lay out the beard you want and grind/cut!

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Cool idea, Thomas. I've got a couple hanging out in the corner of my hammer rack; I may give that a try.

I made a bearded axe a little while back by drifting out the eye of a big ball-peen hammer and drawing the mass of the hammer face downward for the blade. (Squaring up the peen so that I could hold it with a pair of V-bit tongs was a happy inspiration.) Sadly, it cracked in the heat treatment, and I ended up with an axe that had more stubble than beard.

Your axe looks good, Chad; vaguely reminiscent of some Viking and Anglo-Saxon hewing axes I've seen.

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Thanks Jennifer.  That was the inspiration but I hate to say "viking ax".  Seems like it's overused, though I do plan on using old Nordic runes on it.  This is 5160 and I only plan on heat trading the blade. 

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Cool idea for using those carpenters axes, I want one to use still but any other's I come across I'll try that out too.

I flattened all the boards for the chest projects and cut some joints to make the box, with some hand forged nails I put it all together. Now to make the bottom and install all the hardware! 

IMG_20220608_212232.thumb.jpg.f1af309b7fd89bc33a2aea17e96453be.jpg

~Jobtiel

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I wish you were here; I probably have a dozen of those unmodified hatchet heads up on the shelf and you could take your pick.  It all started when I was sorting stuff to take to the scrapyard and as I didn't have a use for that hatchet...then the design exploded into my head and I took a piece of chalk and drew various cuts on it till I got one I liked.  After that they went on my "always buy if cheap" list.

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That would've been great! I see them online for like 10 or 15 euros a piece but I'm waiting for those 1 euro ones at the flea markets. I think one of these hatchets can be a great all rounder for camping once the edge has been curved a bit. with the poll as a hammer and the chiseled part to use as a stake puller or for removing the leaves and spikes from nettle to make cordage. 

~Jobtiel

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I hadn't planned on it for this ax Thomas.  I'm doing this for a bit more show,  a little etching and carving with leather wrap on the handles.  "Viking stuff" for those who just watch the TV series.  I think I'll try that on the next one.  This is off a really big piece of leaf spring so I have plenty of practice material. 

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I got my side sets almost finished up.

now normalizing:

4C4E896A-D2ED-421E-BFDF-BC6D20EE7F93.jpeg.7fb516c78c634f86473884f28373a86b.jpeg

Made from a forklift tine:

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The little wonky piece is going to be my heat treat test material… (Hopefully it’s not air hardening?)

I also heated up the face of a 6-1/2” diameter press rod that was induction hardened on the face. Took for ever to get that hot. It’s still sitting in/on vermiculite to slow. Plan it to cut slabs along the sides for drawing saddles(?) to bolt onto the power hammer dies and a large flatter. We’ll see if I can keep the cuts straight.

Keep it fun

David

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I'm far from being an expert but so far I've made several 2 lbs and a up hammer heads from Hyster forks. When I quench them in oil the face of the hammer gets marred up pretty easy so its still soft, when I quench them in water, missed blows leave tiny depressions in the anvil and the face of the hammer doesn't get all beat up. So as it's been suggested in other threads, it's probably 1045. The tempering hasn't been to scientific, after shutting the forged down for the day (propane forge). I stick the finished hammer heads in the sill hot forge for the night.

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So after the hammer is quenched and cold I spend a little time cleaning it with a motorized brush. The forge has at this point probably been off for at least 5 minutes, the walls are still orange when I stick the hammer head in. Of course the forge stays off.   I didn't mention it earlier but the other way I've done it is to heat up the hammer drift and stick the hammer blank on the drift. This method might be better I can see the steel turn a straw color. As far as annealing I'll get the work piece a light orange color and bury in a bucket of ashes.

hammer5.jpg

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You can see the entire comment in the thread:   https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/66519-what-did-you-do-in-the-shop-today/page/851/#comment-768975

On 5/29/2022 at 6:00 PM, ArmySoldier72 said:

This is the West Side of the Building. We think Cattle went in the Left Door into the milking area.  Red door is for the farmer working the cattle.  The right side is the overhand area.

image.thumb.jpeg.19daacdc7a96fcfebf9d274d7d8e4bb9.jpeg

 

The overhang area to the right I am thinking one day of doing an open air forging area. maybe put sides up... not sure.

These two pictures are looking into my smithing / welding area

Taken from the white door on the left in the picture above. 

image.jpeg.33cfd4c9d802901ba86793e57c8ec863.jpeg

At the far end is two more doors... and I have a fan blowing. 

This picture is taken just inside and left of the red door.

image.jpeg.173f51beba25a384d48ea9b4fc88a7a0.jpeg

Frosty, you brought up ventilation in the Mr Volcano Post.  

This building is an old Milk Barn separated from the house

 

The work area is about 25' long but just shy of 9' wide

You can see the Non-hardening clay on the anvil. 

I am trying to spend an hour or so practicing hammer control

I started the Flat Jaw and Slot Jaw tongs from Kens Custom Iron.

in this thread: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/69563-new-delivery-yesterday-i-am-excited/

image.jpeg.434f9c7610e93b0a8a0e50c188ea6b6a.jpeg

I rounder the handles using the amazon bought pair of tongs.  But I found the stock a little hard to hold. 

So I drilled holes and put a bolt in so I could use the flat jab tongs while I finished up the slot jaw tongs.

They turned out ok.   I am new, I don't have all the skills i need.   I get it....

One day I will go back and clean them up.

BUT the slot jaw tongs hold that end piece of 1" Succor Rod

My thought it to square the small end for the hardy hold. 

and turn the threaded end into a cut off end. 

 

I might need to just cut off the threads and start with that round part 

Not 100% sure yet.

BUT BUT BUT... the Mr Volcano got that little guy I would yellow.

And it was starting to move.

 

8-)

 

ARMY

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