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Looking good. Twisting 1.5" cold is some serious torque. I'd have to get it to welding heat just to budge it. 

The blue looks nice with the white. Never seen that combo on a machine before but you made it work.

It's a clean machine. 

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Danny Arnold, (Old n Rusty), used a threading machine, a lot smaller than yours, to twist square bar cold. He mounted a chain link pipe vise on a post in the center of his shop at the proper height and would twist 20 ft sections at a time. I don’t know how big he could work, but here’s a piece of 5/8 he did. 


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On 7/2/2021 at 11:06 PM, Ted Ewert said:

Looking good. Twisting 1.5" cold is some serious torque. I'd have to get it to welding heat just to budge it. 

Ted, it was not an easy fix.. The hours and costs are adding up.. But with that I can't wait to give it a good go.. 

The blue was stolen from the new factory units though I like the color blue they use a little better. 

This clean up was really just to bring it back to useable shape..  I have a few tweaks left and dealing with electrical stuff now.   

The unit lived in water for a long time it looks..  The 110V transformer is shot..  I ordered new 110V coils and am looking for a replacement unit for the main contactors..  They are cracked some here and there so who knows how long they will last. 

It's been a fun project and we needed each other.. :) 

7 hours ago, Les L said:


Danny Arnold, (Old n Rusty), used a threading machine, a lot smaller than yours, to twist square bar cold. Would twist 20 ft sections at a time.

Les, that is impressive..    I'm hoping it will do what it's designed for and then some..   Should be a handy piece to have in the shop for sure..  

The Guy at Oster said it might do 2" cold and 1" would be nothing for it. 

I'll wait till I get all the pipe cut and threaded before I start to torture test it. 

She's got work to do before then. 

I had some stainless steel handles turned at my Machinist friends.. He has a CNC Lathe so being stainless steel means nothing to him.. 

I had to remove the hub for the carriage feed which I was hoping to avoid..  But he needed it for test fitting the threads as they were in tough shape. 

I removed the original base plate for the sump as it was damaged and there was no way to get inside to clean and paint it.. 

The new one is 1/4" diamond plate and bolts in.  I ordered a new pick up oil screen and a return screen and a chip bypass plate. 

This group of die heads I just picked up for 300.00 and now am only missing a few sizes of standard threads.. I also have nearly all pipe sizes up to 4". 

I forge brazed the broken oil pump cover.. Not my best job but the last braze job was 35 years ago.. Lotta of the technique came back as I finished it up.. 

New triple belt and oil pump belt. 

Look inside the control box of which the 110V is shot, need a new transformer.. 

The stainless steel handles look amazing. 



















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I've all ready damaged the paint..  Thank goodness..   So, now it's ok to use..  I'm not a "To nice to use" AKA drive person.. 

Just try to be as careful as I can be with the new clean parts like the gear selector decal.  Of course that will be the first thing to get dented or scratched..  Maybe I should put some plexi glass on it.. 

Frosty , I figured you knew me better than that..   New oil was ordered 2 weeks ago from Oster..   10 Gallons..  

It was not cheap.. In fact the oil cost more than I paid for the machine. 



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Oh yeah and you're so easy to get a rise out of, sometimes I just can't resist. 

I found letting the paint dry for a few days extra or weeks even before using a thing helps it harden up. Drill rigs are HARD on paint and rust is never good.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I love the "my own ding" factor..  :) 

I have personallized this unit so feel like it's been here the whole time..  The fancy split floor, the stainless steel handles, the Sq 1/2 drive socket attached to the sump bung.. 

The Painted motor bay.. 

I got a few more custom touches to go..  :) 

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So, lots getting done on figuring out this machines electrics..  Also a little bit of stuff here and there.. 

Mainly just clean up stuff now..  Detailed type stuff.  Tighten up and such and such..  Adjusting the jib.

Here is a bar I ran thru the Jennifer surface grinder..  There was about 0.016 of a lip on one side where it's been running on the rail.. 

there is a handle that squeezes the carriage rail to hold it in position, but the space under it when tightened kept it from engaging. 

This and getting the shims sorted fixed it up perfectly.  You can see the handle in the last photo. 





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nearing the finish line on this bad boy.. 

Sadly with all this stuff its a learning curve.. I had to order a new controller/contactor..  It came in from Amman Jordan. 

Decent shipping time, but it arrived damaged though the box had no damage..  We will see how that works out. 

The solenoids I ordered few weeks back are the wrong size..   I ordered 0A01 and I needed 1A01..   Live and learn. 

The new uinit comes with 220v coils vs the 110v which the original came with.. 

I also ordered a new transformer and it came in beat up with no abuse to the box.   LOL.. 

I have most the stuff completed so just a few more things. 

Few before and afters as well.. 











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The contactor assembly looks to be a European version as it's 50 cycle, 220v. As long as 220 volts going through the control system is OK, should work. 

The minor damage doesn't look serious unless it cracked the casting. It's just an insulation flange.

You've done an amazing job at resurrecting an old rust bucket. I look forward to seeing how it works. 


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Ted,  the unit can be configured for 220/440  50 or 60hz..  (Allen Bradley is a USA company) or used to be.

The control circuit was 110V..   So the transformer would take the 220/440V and make 110V just for the control circuit. 

Today I pulled it all apart because I wanted to use the old one to see how it was put together.. 

Turns out the original is completely shot.. The insulator is completely cracked really badly.. Came apart in my hands more or less.. 

I wanted to figure out how to change out the 220V solenoid for the 110V units I ordered.. 

The original is so rusty, it does not want to come apart easily.  The nice thing is they used good hardware so the screws came out and it gave me a good view of what needs to be done step wise. 

So while I was there I finished the job of paint..  The inside of the box will be white like the original and the outside will be blue. 

It's always interesting when I want to take short cuts and then forced into doing it all. 




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  • 2 weeks later...

Well it's been a little bit..   Decided I like the orange  contrast instead of the yellow..  We'll see how I do in lower light.. 

The Orange looks sharper, but for me the yellow is easier to see on the blue.. 

The pickup tube in the sump was completely rusted thru underneath where I could not see it.. I felt it when I installed the pick up screen so decided it should be replaced and a valve to control the oil would be great too.. Now I can shut the oil off and remove the pump without having to drain the sump. 

Since I needed to remove the motor I figured it was a good time to clean under it and give it a shot of paint. 

I also installed new clear lines so have a better view of what is going on..  Besides the old lines were in old shape.. ;) 

To get the old pipe out I simply drilled into it, till it came free.. I used a modern malleable black iron coupler as these have better threads vs straight thru coupler though the straight thru are steel.. I have had decent luck welding the malleable iron ones in the past so figured I would try it. 

Came out good.. 

The oil pump works.  All the customiziation items I wanted to do are in place.. I threaded 2 drain holes I put in when I first got the machine to drain the water out of it..  Put 1/4" pipe plugs in.. 

I will put on a fitting from the bottom with a clear hose to see if oil is in it.. That way I will know if something is amiss. 











I gun blued the handle hub and the cutoff tool block.. 








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  • 2 weeks later...

thanks..   Only thing left is to change the oil in the transmission...  I'm going with Mobil SHC 630 or 632. (320 vso).  SAE90 is what is stock..  I talked to the guy at Oster and they are using MP66.. 

I keep leaving messages for my oil guy but not heard back.. they might not carry it in stock..  Kinda expensive, but designed for worm drives.. 

Your welcome to come and put it to use..  

I'll see what I can do about the twisting of a bar..  I figured I'd get the pipe threaded first before I put it to the test.. 

right now, getting the electric installed is higher on the list then twisting 1" bar stock.. :) 

1 more demo then have a weekend off so 2 weeks open so can get back at the shop electric.

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In my opinion, synthetic lubricants are far superior to their mineral based counterparts. Less friction, longer life. A bit pricier, but I doubt you'd ever have to change it.

Is that motor a three phase or single? 

I'd love to drop by and use that machine, but it would be an unusually long drive from California to get some pipe threaded.

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Ted, fully agree.. I was actually very shocked at how nice the oil inside of the transmission is..   Not any stink and no water..  Still feels good run between the fingers.. Sometimes the oil feels really used up.. Yes it is speculative vs having it tested but from the looks of the machine at starting point I figured the oil would be totally trashed.. 

When I change the oil I'll pull the cover off and clean the bottom of any gunk.  change out the site window as well.. the new window sticks out some but is easier to see the oil level. 

Interestingly there are no oil seals on either end of the main spindle. Just return oil ways. 

Yeah, might be a little far for a few pipes.. :)   I am shocked right now what it costs for materials..  

I was talking with someone that knows the pipe business and he said they were getting good money for threading of pipe for electrical contractors..  

Maybe I'll advertise for custom pipe threading.. 

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