Charles R. Stevens Posted July 12, 2022 Author Share Posted July 12, 2022 Jock (RIP) over at anvilfire had a lot of sketches of home built anvils from heavy plate. One in particular would work well for the stock you have. He didn’t like his page linked to, so I. Hose to respect that. I hope his page is still up for posterities sake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 13, 2022 Share Posted July 13, 2022 Nice anvil! Well done. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Melancholy Rivet Posted July 13, 2022 Share Posted July 13, 2022 Thanks, Frosty! Charles - lots of great content on Anvilfire, are you referring to the article on slab anvils? I've started grinding a radius similar to the left example in that article. I'm also going to try welding on a little horn horn similar to the middle example. I'm sorry to hear that it's creator has passed! It sounds like one of his friends has stepped in to keep the information posted so it should remain available as long as he's around to foot the bill. Maybe someone could get permission to convert all of those articles into a book, it would be excellent content to have handy offline! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 13, 2022 Author Share Posted July 13, 2022 A bick for the hardy hole would be much easier, and large curves are easy to turn without a horn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 Kim Thomas pointed out to me this great little hardy tool for larger curves on pages 42-43 of Werk und Werkzeug des Kunstschmieds (The Smithy’s Craft and Tools) by Otto Schmirler: Here’s my version, welded up from a piece of bent plate and a scrap of angle iron: It works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWISTEDWILLOW Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 That looks pretty handy John! I’m gonna be needing to make a big ring for a tool hanger on a forge soon and I’ve been looking at different ways to do it, I might have to give that a try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 It’s startlingly effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 I've always called it a "ski jump" it's one of the tools I was planning to demo for the NMABA. Mine was made from a torch cut piece of 1.5"? plate I found at the scrapyard. It had both the gentle and more abrupt sides. I also picked up a copy of the book at a smith's estate sale; I have it right next to "Geschmiedetes Eisen" by Kuhn and "Damaszener Stahl" by Sachse. (Another German book I like is "Schöne alte Wirtshausschilder" by Leonhard.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 Don't forget the other slope of the "ski jump" for turning tighter circles. I have a large radius bottom fuller that serves the same purpose though I doubt as well. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 11 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: "Geschmiedetes Eisen" by Kuhn For those who missed it, I reviewed this book together with one of Kuhn's sources of inspiration: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 14, 2022 Author Share Posted July 14, 2022 I start the initial curve on shoes simply by bracing the tongs against my leg supporting on end of the bar wile the other end is supported on the anvil. Rounding hammer applied to the middle to start the curve. closing the 90 is easy enough by placing one end on the anvil face and striking the other end wile griping the center with tongs. The branches for front shoes can be bent buy placing the toe on the anvil and striking the end (heal) rear shoes are not as easy but doable by bending the shoe so one can access the heal. the same tricks have been used for mallinia, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natkova Posted August 15, 2022 Share Posted August 15, 2022 Thanks john for that picture. I can see it welded and mounted in vise. I cant find video on net anymore but i saw one smith pounding on the edge of anvil and it by some miracle fold itself in circle (ring) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 It's also been done using the step between the face and the cutting plate on a London pattern anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 It belongs here my small anvil. The wood of the stand looks a bit rotten, but that are only the parts that are missing. The wood is solid. The anvil stand very secure on the wood. the floor however is oneven, so that is a bummer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jobtiel1 Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 Looking good, looks like it will work well! What are you going to make with it? ~Jobtiel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 At this moment, tongs and punches. Then triangle for the kids so their summerhouse is finished (at the end of the summer). And some fire-thing-pokes. Small stuff. We see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 22, 2022 Author Share Posted August 22, 2022 Triangle bells sound better if they are spring steel (I use sucker rod) and off set the gap so that the branches are of different length. Oh and use a price of cord or leather thong to hand it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 You might try drilling and bolting through the wood; those metal extensions would snag me if it was working in my shop. (With London pattern anvils; I have the stand clamping bolts under the horn and heel so I will hit the anvil before I run into them...) My first "constructed" anvil stand was made from rough sawn oak that had been the floor of a horse trailer. The scrapyard gave it to me free. The best pieces are a set of shelves in my shop. The intermediate pieces I cut for anvil stands. Then I noticed I needed only 1 more stand to have all my using anvils on stands. So I made a stand from a heavily cribbed board----seams to have worked ok even if ugly! (Years later I needed a taller stand for students over 2 meters tall and made one from softwood scraps. Works too.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 I will see. I think the wood will crumble before my pants are torn open. I can work in very weird and cramped places. That is a good thing, also a bad thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 23, 2022 Share Posted August 23, 2022 One thing with forging: when moving with hot steel folks often pay more attention to the hot steel than to where their feet and legs are; hence the suggestion to avoid trip and snag hazards when possible. (How many of us have managed to ram the tip of an anvil horn with our leg---if we were lucky!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted August 23, 2022 Share Posted August 23, 2022 (edited) Sorry for the quote. Can't find the blank text on my phone. I get what you mean. But I know it will work out. I used to work at a shipyard. Awerness for the surrounding has become second nature. Working with a torch cutting steel above your head does that, espacially with collegues doing the same around you At this moment. I have more problems finding a good spot for everything. A gasforge gives a lot of heat in front of it. Edited August 24, 2022 by Mod30 Remove quote Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted August 23, 2022 Share Posted August 23, 2022 Scroll down and click on the *reply to this topic* box and type. Then scroll down again and cl>ck on *submit reply*. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted August 23, 2022 Share Posted August 23, 2022 Thomas not te be disrespectfull. I appreceate your input. Have to rethink my support anyway. The floor is too oneven. It is wobbly-wobbly. Glenn it is me, but i don't understand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 23, 2022 Share Posted August 23, 2022 Glenn means you can reply to a post without quoting it by using the text window directly below it. Posts directly following another and on the same subject don't need a quote to know who you are responding to. If it's a few posts down the thread simply addressing the person you're responding to by name works. Make sense? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 24, 2022 Share Posted August 24, 2022 Gewoon, can you trim the bottom to 3 protrusions to make a tripod... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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