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I Forge Iron

Black steel does not mean cold steel


natenaaron

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Welcome to the club Nate. Scale or did you hold onto the stock too long, maybe forget to cool the held end?

You DO keep Aloe Vera gel in the shop. RIGHT? That isn't Silvadine level but I have a tube of that in a kitchen drawer.

Frosty The Lucky.

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The heated business end of the metal.  1x1/8 strap I had just finished putting a 90 degree bend on for a strap to hold my ASO on the stump.  I set it on the ASO with the hot corner hanging off.  Took my glove off to wipe sweat.  No idea why I was reaching past it but I bumped freshly bent hot corner coming up.  I will be getting aloe for the shop.  Have it at home, but none in the shop.  Just a few seconds inattention.  Hot metal has a way of making you refocus quick.

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Oh yeah, I've done that more times than I'd admit to folk who don't work in a hot shop. I finally stopped setting hot things within easy reach I drop it on the floor under the anvil or on the spreader shelf between the forge table legs. Glenn has a good method, he has a designated HOT table and everything on it is to be treated as HOT. He has one or  more other tables and NOTHING hot is to be set on one.

I know what you mean by touching hot stuff getting your attention I'd just imagine the memory would stick better, I usually remember the last time I burned myself right AFTER I burn myself AGAIN. :wacko:

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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The HOT table is beside the forge. EVERYTHING goes onto the HOT table. My WORK table is near the anvil.

In order to transfer from the HOT table to the WORK table you MUST take an object from the HOT table and put it in water, then put it in your BARE HAND, and only then does it go to the work table.

This is the procedure for EVERYTHING !!  Even if it was on the HOT table overnight, it still goes into the water, into the bare hand, and only then to the work table. Metal which was forged or even pre-cut metal stock, S hooks, tongs, hammers, EVERYTHING !!  There are no surprises that way. I have put HOT metal into the slack tub and brought it out steaming only to look at it and say not yet. It goes back into the slack tub so I can put it in my bare hand and then onto the work table.

This procedure keeps everyone safe. There is always someone that will try to pick up a piece of metal from the work table. Their surprise is that the metal is hot to them but was *warm* to me as I held it in my bare hand. It is also below 200*F or the point of boiling water (remember the steam and not yet comment ?) so they do not get burned.

There is a thread on the site about putting ANY burned body part under water for 15 minutes to draw the heat from the meat and keep the meat from cooking. You remove a stake from the grill before it is done for the same reason, as it will continue to cook from the heat in the meat. 

A clean bucket of fresh water is always a good idea to have handy by the forge. Hands and other body parts can be inserted or the water poured onto the burned area. It is also great for putting out small fires before they need to send the big red trucks with lots of water.

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I was taught in my first class, Hot metal goes on the floor.  I thought that was dumb.  If you have a forge (we were using coal) with a fire in it why not put it on the forge.  Then I found out, unfortunately, it is easy to pick up a hot piece lying on the forge.  Of course what Nate was talking about was a piece that he was still working on.

Don't worry, it will heal.

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 Note to self....make, and take a portable hot table to the next demo. I was working a demo at the county fair and laid a steak flipper I was working on, at the edge of the rivet forge while I was talking to a bystander. When I finished talking I grabbed the coal rake to tend the fire. Problem was, the steak flipper looked a lot like the coal rake. A long dip in the quench bucket and all I have to show for the mistake is some leathery fingers. Be careful when working out of your normal setup.           Dave

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Stop wearing gloves while you forge and you won't forget the metal is hot!  Yes there are times you need a glove or gloves. 

But in most general forging you do not.  No not wearing a gloves will not keep you from getting burned but I think it helps from getting any major ones.  Nothing can get caught in them if you are not wearing them.  Then I think there is a faults sense of security while wearing them.  The only glove I use is a hot mill or a welding glove that I can shake off quickly if something goes down the glove.

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the Simple Rule I Consider ALL!!! Metal Hot in shop until ck by the back of my hand

& have never so far got burnt yet  & have been welding since 1976 & smithing for 20 + years

LOL now watch me Goof up

also I have 3 lg slack tubs in shop & use often to keep tools cold & Hot work is under the forge or in it

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Working bare handed you can feel the heat in the metal. When it gets too hot to hold, turn it loose.  Wearing a glove, you feel the heat and turn the metal loose, but there is still coming through the glove which means you can only get rid of the heat by taking the glove off.

If you are using the cotton top leather palm work gloves, cut the cuff off of the glove. If the glove gets snagged on something it will leave the hand immediately. With the cuff on, the cuff will lock against the wrist / arm and jerk you around.  The glove minus the cuff will feel like it will fall off but I have not had that happen unless the glove gets caught on something. No cuff means no place for the hot scale or metal to fall into.

 

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There's a lot to be said for not wearing gloves unless it's actually necessary. Not wearing gloves a person learns a seconds hesitation before picking things up pretty quickly. Testing from a distance is a good habit to get into, followed by a quick brush with the fingers.

Another hazard I haven't seen mentioned THIS time we're discussing gloves ;) is how leather conducts heat. Leather gets HOT but it takes time to conduct to your hand meaning by time you feel the heat the glove is hot enough to do damage. Worse still leather shrinks if it gets hot enough combined with taking a few seconds before you feel it, leather gloves can trap your hand and really do damage.

That's probably one of the most dangerous things about using a propane forge, you almost have to wear gloves to shield yourself from the dragon's breathe but dragon's breath is exactly the thing that can super heat leather, shrink it on your hand and cook you.

Wear them if you have to bet be really aware of and on the watch for the special ways leather can burn you. IF a glove traps a piece of hot scale, shrinks on and traps you just stick it all in the slack tub, bucket or whatever. Water will not only chill it but will soak the leather and let you get it off. Works for hot scale or a cutting in your boot.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Got a reminder the other day, ankle boots make great catchers for dross from the oxy. Not only does it get in the top even when done up, it immediately works its way right down to the top of the foot, and you just stand there feeling it burn in knowing there is no use undoing the laces and pulling the boot off, it will take to long to do any good!

- One of those "cant be bothered going up to the house and putting on my trousers, its only a 2 inch cut" moments. (Was just tinkering about in the shed with other stuff in my shorts when I got the bright idea)

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1 hour ago, Frosty said:

That's probably one of the most dangerous things about using a propane forge, you almost have to wear gloves to shield yourself from the dragon's breathe but dragon's breath is exactly the thing that can super heat leather, shrink it on your hand and cook you.

That's why I wear the gloves.  I saw Waynecoe had a blower to get rid of that, anyone else use one?

1 hour ago, Jackdawg said:

- One of those "cant be bothered going up to the house and putting on my trousers, its only a 2 inch cut" moments. (Was just tinkering about in the shed with other stuff in my shorts when I got the bright idea)

I've had a few of those this summer.  I was working on a grant for the other job and was not wearing shop clothes when I would get to the shop.  "oh its just a little weld"  had me doing the BB through the running shoes dance.

Really have to get my brain out of my butt.  I like that HOT table idea, Glenn.

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1 hour ago, Jackdawg said:

Got a reminder the other day, ankle boots make great catchers for dross from the oxy. Not only does it get in the top even when done up, it immediately works its way right down to the top of the foot, and you just stand there feeling it burn in knowing there is no use undoing the laces and pulling the boot off, it will take to long to do any good!

- One of those "cant be bothered going up to the house and putting on my trousers, its only a 2 inch cut" moments. (Was just tinkering about in the shed with other stuff in my shorts when I got the bright idea)

Just yesterday, it was so hot in the forage that I decided to smith shirtless. The bib on my leather apron is very high and wide, so I figured, what the heck.

Of course, the exact moment that my back was turned to the fire was when a piece of rice coal popped and send a hot shard down the back of my trousers....

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 Maybe the leathery fingers was not the right term. I was not wearing groves (seldom do). I just scorched the skin and now have( almost gone) some tough skin on my fingers. Evidently I got to the water in time because there has not been any blisters show up.                        Life is Good                       Dave

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2 hours ago, matto said:

If you are using a gas forge and you are close enough to the dragons breath to need gloves you either need longer stock or longer    

Tong handles.

Don't use a propane forge do you? The dragon's breath is only one way to shrink gloves onto your hand. Truth is a gasser heats everything near the door. Using stock long enough it doesn't get hot enough to need gloves means it's too long to work except on the power hammer. Not all gas forges are as bad as my shop forge and maybe the new one will get as hot without as much dragon's breath. Still I'll bet you a nickle it won't be practical forging stock long enough to not need gloves or a wet rag to cool the end close enough to have good control on the anvil.

Frosty The Lucky.

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On 7/31/2016 at 8:59 PM, ThomasPowers said:

I've been teaching my students that the stock holding hand can go behind their back while they step up to the anvil and address the hot end without leaning over.

I know I am tired but that just confused the heck out of me.

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I have a lg slack tube right next to the propane forge I Always !! cool down tongs after Each use !

& on long bars that dragon breath like to heat the hand ends up - after working bar the hand end 'go's

in the tube for a cool down then back to the forge for next heat this take No time at all to do !

another trick I do once in awhile is put a very wet rag on the end of the bar to help keep it cool

BUT like I always say All steel is hot until you Know it isn't ! I don't wear glove's much if you see me wear a glove

there's a good reason ! also have a slack tub @ the anvil & change water often Just in case someone needs to dip

there hand in clean water

Steve's Welding & Fab

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10 hours ago, natenaaron said:
On 7/31/2016 at 11:59 PM, ThomasPowers said:

I've been teaching my students that the stock holding hand can go behind their back while they step up to the anvil and address the hot end without leaning over.

I know I am tired but that just confused the heck out of me.

I think that what TP means is that with stock long enough to bare-hand the non-working end, you can put that hand behind the line of your shoulders and stand close enough to the anvil to work efficiently. Think of a pool player winding up to break: their hand grips the butt of the cue and pulls it rearwards behind their back.

 

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Yes; students tend to want to hold the far end of the work piece right in front of their belt buckle and then lean almost parallel to the floor to get to the anvil.  (I start them with a 2' long piece of steel for their first project).  If they instead hold it to the side of their hip and take a step or two forward not moving their stock holding hand they can address the anvil with the hammer in a proper fashion.  We don't really care where the holding hand is as long as it has the working area in the correct location and position (and doesn't get in the way of hammering of course.)

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