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lifting big anvil on the stump alone


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Yesterday I was too impatient to wait until someone could help me to lift a +300lb anvil on a stump, so I scratched my head a little to find a way to do it with what was available around me at the moment. several Ideas came to me, but I dropped them - too complicated. then, a little spark... I just took a plank long/wide/thick enough that was found in the workshop and laid an end on the edge of the stump to form a ramp. after that I just "walked" the anvil up on the ramp till I got it on the stump. I took me less than 2 minutes and it was quiet easy (my back is still thankful)

It wasn't a glorious feat, but this may be useful for someone in that situation.

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What's inglorious about lifting 300lbs. stand high without sweating let alone hurting yourself? Well, maybe it isn't impressive to the brawn before brains crowd but who cares what they . . . "think?"

I give you a gold star for using your head rather than your back. ;)

Frosty The Lucky.

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You got lucky this time but I don't believe you are a cat with 9 lives.  Having been in a position to have to "Rescue" or recover people who did these things for years I'd suggest waiting for help next time or plan on writing from the hospital ER
 

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NTK, I respectfully disagree.  Ramps levers and rollers are the solo blacksmith's friends and as long as you move slowly, thoughtfully, carefully, and with the thought "what could go wrong here" at every step, immensely heavy loads may be moved solo safely.  I'd rather wiggle a 300# anvil up a gentile ramp solo rather than grunt lift half that anvil up from the floor with a friend.  Extra helping of hernia with that new anvil?  

 

Don't get me wrong, I understand that things can go wrong either way.  Always understanding that if failure mode occurs you could loose a hand or foot or you could DIE should enhance your safe behavior.  Awareness is key.  If alone use a "phone buddy"... "I'm doing something dangerous, if I don't call you back in X minuets call me and if no reply call 911"  etc.

As Jim says, just my 2c.

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Working alone with heavy objects can be very dangerous. Double up on all safety measures, then sit down and think about something else to do while waiting until help arrives.

 

After help arrives an engine hoist can be used. Just give it plenty of room in case things go wrong.

Or tie a 2x4 or other lever type device to the face of the anvil. Use it to lever and rock the anvil as you crib up underneath the anvil. The cribbing part should be wide and substantial. Go a little bit at a time. Once the anvil is above the stump, redo (reset) the cribbing and slide the stump under the anvil. Now reverse the process to lower the anvil. 

Walking a load up an incline can work but only if the  incline is strong enough to support the load weight. The incline needs to be supported so it does not sag and should be wide enough to work on safely. A long incline is easier to work than a shorter incline. Just be sure to crib up the incline so it does not sag.

Always have a clear path and a place to get away from falling objects.

I second Judson Yaggy's suggestion on the use of a telephone.

Edited by Glenn
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All my ramps are made from OSHA rated  laminated scaffold planks. They are rated at 250 lb centered on an 8' span and 250 lbs 18" to either side of the center load ( 3 man scaffold planks). They are rated at failure at 4x the working load.

 

I've seen plenty of guys snap standard 2x's using them as ramps.

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Sounds like you did OK. I will have the very same problem when my 300# Hay Budden arrives later this month. The stump is all set to take it, but I have to get it up there. Fortunately my smithy has a substantial roof with a serious log as the ridge pole. I intend to winch it up, the same way I winched the log into the hole.

If that fails or I feel safety is compromised, I have a mate with a dingo and forks just a phone call away.

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One of the best things I've ever bought on CL, I'd be lost without it.  Wesco hydraulic toe lift, and use it ALL the time. 

Handles 750# up to 54" lift.  Perfect for moving (and lifting) big anvils.

weso.thumb.jpg.e8f9962e77404ed06d7007049

Edited by Black Frog
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That toe lift looks handy. 

Before the acquisition of fork lift trucks and overhead cranes I used to borrow an engine hoist for loading and unloading.

Before I had access to that I managed to walk my big anvil up a few planks into the back of a Land Rover. I have never weighed it but that is between 5 and 600 lbs... unloading it in the same waŷ.

One of the other ways of getting them up was to use two stacks of wood or concrete blocks and lift one end at a time. A bit like wally Wallington's system in the link above.

Slow and steady, always ensuring you have an escape route!

Alan

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One of my best yard sale acquisitions was the engine hoist, it'll pick 1,500lbs. at full length. I made up an over length arm to load anvils and forge in the back of my pickup. The shop forge is pretty tall so it needs the extra length to lift high enough to clear the bed.

I don't carry anything more than about 75lbs. anymore. Handling capacity has always been the limiting factor to my fabrication capacity.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I did pick up a little Hiab crane 750kg (3/4 ton) at an auction which I can mount over the draw bar of my tailer or onto a cross beam between the trailer sides. I converted it from 12v electric pump to a manual pump and built outriggers for the trailer. It can lift a quarter of a tonne at 3metres (10') and has a hand cranked swivel / slew system. I thought it would be brilliant for installing gates but it proved to be a pain. It needs a powered extension system, I.e. To be able to extend the jib when it is loaded otherwise you have to move the trailer if you cannot get the arc to deliver in just the right place...I have only used it once in anger! It always worked out simpler to hire a full size truck and Hiab on the installations I have had to do since...hey ho.

Alan

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When I get asked how I moved the 600 pound powerhammer base I say "the egyptian style"

Funniest part was getting it on the drill press:

My assembly/welding table is made of 2 heavy beams on stands, Hofi has as far as I know a similar setup.

I removed one stand to have a ramp and pulled it with a hoist on the beams fairly close to the other stand.

Lifting the other side up on the second stand was easy with a 15 feet lever

Its a big OK drill press, but the table was too small anyway and most likely too weak so I kept it on the beams to drill.

Was neither that slow nor that dangerous as it might sound, don´t get distracted and think twice about what could happen.

 

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My engine hoist is one of the most useful tools in my shop. I even bought a 2nd one that folds up so I can lay it in the back of my truck and take it to auctions if they don't have loading assistance available.

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I was happy to pay the rigger's fee to load my screwpress for me after the auction even though it was nearly as much as the winning bid: US$50 bid + 15% buyers reaming vs $35 riggers fee.  It's a beast of a screwpress with a 42" diameter cast iron toroid on top.

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When I bought my 170# HB, I had a plan to unload it alone and place it on my anvil block (no stump at the time).  From my pickup tailgate, I slid it down my truck ramps onto a 2 wheel dolly.  Wheeled the anvil into the shop.  Chained and lifted it with a 2000# rated come-along attached to a double 2x8 ceiling joist.  Lowered it onto the anvil block, secured the anvil and wheeled the anvil/block to it's final resting place.  No lifting involved.

Edited by arkie
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