WHP67 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Hello everyone, I'll start by saying... What an amazing site this is! I was having difficulty logging in as a new user when Glenn reached out to help me not only to log into the site, but to get me pointed in the right direction on beginning my blacksmithing. I have absolutely NO experience in blacksmithing. All I have is a recently acquired anvil, hammer, tongs and a couple of books. So I plan on using this site every step of the way. I'm getting ready to mount my anvil to the proper height, thanks Glenn, and chain it down to muffle the ring. But before that, I have a question about the proper way of cleaning the surface rust and best method of protecting the anvil after cleaning. I'm thinking wire brush and then a coat of motor oil... Oh, and I would like to know how I did not my anvil. I tried the method of telling EVERYONE I knew that I was looking for an anvil. A co-worker says I have a 50#-60# anvil that you can have for free. I refused it for free and offered him $100, he countered with $50, and we settled on $75. Now I still have not seen the anvil yet. The next day I hand him $75 and we go out to his truck and get my anvil. It turns out it's not 60#, but a #120 Peter Wright. I believe the markings put the anvil in the 1880-1910 range. Thanks for your time... Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd&mlteach Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 First off, great deat on the anvil. It looks wonderful. And welcome to the site! You Really do dot have to clean it to use it as it can be used as it. However, if you want to clean it, use a twisted wire cup on an angle grinder to knock off all of the rust. Once the rust is off I like to coat it with linseed oil. The linseed oil can tend to darken the iron a bit. Some people like it others do not. I like the looks and the protection more. My shop is not heated and temperature swings cause my anvils to sweat and if they are not protected they rust. I coat everything with the linseed oil before I mount the anvil to a stump. The oil coating will burn off the face and the horn when I use it. To protect the top I have an oil/grease soaked towel that I lay over the top of the anvils. The towels go from tip to tail. They have stopped the rust from appearing between the times I get to use them. Another way to keep the rust off the face is to use it everyday. But so far I haven't figured out a way to accomplish that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Your anvil looks like it really only needs the top cleaned off. You can do the entire anvil if you want, but you might want to preserve the patina as is. Once you wire wheel the top, there will probably be some pitting left from the corrosion that is present. Resist the temptation to belt sand of grind the top. Just use it. Any pitting will slowly level out from use. If you use an oily towel over your anvil between uses, make sure you use motor oil, not boiled linseed oil or any of the oils that could are self combustible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 The patina may have taken 100 years or more to develop. If you wire brush down to the metal and make the anvil shine you will have destroyed the patina and you or others WILL NOT be able to replace the patina in YOUR lifetime. Put the anvil to use. Hot metal will quickly clean the face as you forge. Oil the rest of the anvil, just a wipe with an old section of t-shirt. damp with old motor oil, ATF, etc. Just a light wipe each time you shut down the forge. This will create a coating that keeps oxygen from getting to the metal. A year from now the oil can be washed off if you decide if you want to do something else. There will be no damaging the anvil. Many people cringe it is suggested you paint the anvil even though It was painted at the factory. You paint your car and expect the paint to protect the metal for 5, 10, 20 years? If you do paint the anvil may I suggest the family tartan, plaid, or at least pin stripes. (grin) After all it is YOUR anvil. I prefer a light wipe of ATF on the face of the anvil after each use. The ATF will not cause problems the next time you use the anvil and will keep any oxygen from getting to the bare metal and causing rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 I'd go with going over it with a soft wire brush to remove loose rust and then linseed oil.Scale is an abrasive and so even a pitted face will clean up with regular use. I once bought an HB that had been stored in an unheated shed in a low swampy area in Ohio for 50 years. The face was totally covered with fine pitting from condensation. So I brushed the surface lightly using an angle grinder to remove the loose stuff and used it. A decade later the sweet spot is smooth and shiny, yet on the heel you can still see the patina I got it with.If you live in a damp area with lots of temperature swings the oiled rag over the face at the end of the day is a good idea NOT linseed oil as linseed oily rags can auto combust! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Mount it, and use it. If you do brush it use a hand brush. I wouldn't take it down to shiny metal, just polish the rust some, and oil it. The patina will help keep it from rusting more. As to painting, I have considered a flame paint job on one of mine. Nice score on the anvil it appears to be in great shape, and it is a good size to start with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 My anvil is outside and prone to sweating. I usually keep a plastic storage box over it. After a forging session, I just give the face a quick spritz of WD-40, quick wipe with a paper towel and the next time it is rust free and no residue from motor oil or linseed oil. I put the used paper towel wipe with a wad of newspaper the next time I start a fire in the forge...no waste, no rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Looks to be in excellent condition, quite a find and a very honorable deal you worked out. I believe with that stamping it is from the 1850 to1862 time period. As you can read from the replies lightly clean it to get the loose stuff off and oil it or use the beeswax mix to preserve the patina. You can see new shiny metal every day but over 100 years of age is magical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Welcome aboard Bill, glad to have you. Nice score on the anvil and a honest bit of dickering you did. Personally I'd just put it to work, maybe wipe loose rust off the sides with a piece of burlap. I "oiled" my first good anvil with the wax finish recipe found in "The Art Of Blacksmithing," by Alex Bealer. It's wax, turpentine and soot, the turps soften the mix to shoe polish consistency. After a long day at a demo my anvil was coffee cup hot so I wiped it down with the wax finish. That was about 1989 and it's still like it was when I waxed it. Just do NOT "restore" it! That beautiful old lady earned every mark on her, any restoration attempt will diminish her. Frosty he Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Wright 275 Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 She is beautiful! What an awesome score and truly honorable the way you got her. I would take that co worker to lunch somewhere nice. I too had problems logging on to this site, have been trying for the last month and tried something different today and it worked. I already am getting great information here, and can't wait to learn more. Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 WHP, Good score my friend and welcome aboard, enjoy the madness. PW s are great anvils. It always amazes me that we are using something produced by men well over a century ago. Forge on and make good things. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 I have a sporting chance of being able to toast my William Foster's 200th birthday in a dozen more years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Wright 275 Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Welcome aboard Bill, glad to have you. Nice score on the anvil and a honest bit of dickering you did. Personally I'd just put it to work, maybe wipe loose rust off the sides with a piece of burlap. I "oiled" my first good anvil with the wax finish recipe found in "The Art Of Blacksmithing," by Alex Bealer. It's wax, turpentine and soot, the turps soften the mix to shoe polish consistency. After a long day at a demo my anvil was coffee cup hot so I wiped it down with the wax finish. That was about 1989 and it's still like it was when I waxed it. Just do NOT "restore" it! That beautiful old lady earned every mark on her, any restoration attempt will diminish her. Frosty he Lucky. Hello Sir, would you still have that recipe by any chance? My anvil sweats even though I wipe it with WD40 still shows rust on the top plate. When I got her it was nice and shiny. Unfavorable wind conditions won't allow me to light my coal forge as much as I would like. I considered wiping her down with huberd's boot grease as it has beeswax in it. I just started laying a rag soaked with boiled linseed oil on it. So glad to finally got access to this site as I might have burned down my carport! Linseed no longer an option. My big anvil just showed up at the local shipping dock and want to take care of it the right way. I will be changing my user name in here just as soon as I figure out how to do it. I mean no disrespect to any PW fans. I am one myself. Best to you all and thanks for the great safety tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 W (water) D (displacement) 40 is just that, a water displacement product. It gets under water and brings it to the surface. Try ATF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sluicebox Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 W (water) D (displacement) 40 is just that, a water displacement product. It gets under water and brings it to the surface. Try ATF. Thank you Sir I will try that for sure. Is that how this person got this patina with ATF? I like the color and want to preserve it like this. Please take a look, I have not seen any this color before. Thanks for your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 ATF like any oil will dry on the anvil. Add a little dirt, and a couple of decades or more of time and you should get a nice patina. To preserve the color you have now, try a clear paint. Multiple coats should protect the surface as well as let the present color show through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 I'll have to locate my copy of, "The Art of Blacksmithing" by Alex Bealer for his recipe. What I wrote is what I remember of it and I didn't actually measure when I mixed up my batch. Please remind me if I don't get back in a couple days, my memory is shot, I distract at the drop of a hat. It's a traumatic brain injury (TBI) issue. Were I mixing up another batch I wouldn't bother with the lamp black (soot). I'd just melt the wax and add turpentine till it was like stiff shoe polish. I used paraffin wax rather than bees wax like Bealer called for and I have things I finished with it hanging from the barn without a touch of rust and they've been there for probably 15 years now. They aren't subjected to any wear though, just weather. I've found LPS3 works extremely well, it's a spray wax preservative in a penetrant solvent. The stuff works a treat and doesn't need the iron to even be warm. I'll do my best to remember to hunt up my copy of Art of Blacksmithing, I even wrote myself a postit note. Just don't count on my memory. <sigh> WD-40 will displace the water but doesn't leave anything to prevent it getting wet again. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 That is one beautiful anvil ... and what an honourable acquisition. Great story all round. Enjoy the anvil and best of luck with your forging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sluicebox Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Thanks Jerry for the wax input. OP I told friends about how you scored that anvil and your integrity and was surprised that none of them would have done the same. Maybe you are meant to do this and were blessed with getting a major obstacle out of your way. It would seem that you had some good Karma due and your ways of the past caught up with you. Keep it up, as it seems to be rare anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Grid Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 On 1/26/2015 at 2:09 AM, Frosty said: I'll have to locate my copy of, "The Art of Blacksmithing" by Alex Bealer for his recipe. What I wrote is what I remember of it and I didn't actually measure when I mixed up my batch. Please remind me if I don't get back in a couple days, my memory is shot, I distract at the drop of a hat. It's a traumatic brain injury (TBI) issue. I'll do my best to remember to hunt up my copy of Art of Blacksmithing, I even wrote myself a postit note. Just don't count on my memory. <sigh> Jerry Hey Jerry, as requested, Just a reminder for you, check your postit notes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SReynolds Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 I take advice literally. Stilly trying out the experiment of self combustion of the boiled linseed oil wrags. I'll post back when that happens. To speed the process, I grabbed one of them and put a torch to it. It would not burn with out the torch. I use a coating of engine oil on the face/horn. I don't find that problematic when I begin to use it as I wipe it off...... I tried out WD-40 but it literally evaporates and the surface rusts. To make my custom patina on a painted anvil; I clean to bare metal.wipe with paint thinner or surface prep. Spray with black paint. Allow to dry. Lightly sand the surface with scotch brite and remove any overspray from face/horn etc. Wipe down with boiled linseed oil and save the wrag for above experiment. I may have some pictures on my office computer. My phone was stolen along with lots o pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 On 4/8/2017 at 4:05 AM, Off Grid said: Hey Jerry, as requested, Just a reminder for you, check your postit notes. Bealer didn't specify what kind of wax in his recipe nor did he didn't specify how much lamp black to use , not really but I'd leave it out. Modern mild steel isn't porous enough to absorb soot so his reasoning is dated. A finish for wrought iron would be a different story and soot might make a better finish. That's about it, melt wax in a double boiler and add turpentine till it's a paste wax consistency when cool. Check by dipping a cool spoon in the mix and testing when the wax cool. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Grid Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Johnsons paste wax smells like it has turpentine or something similar in it, do you know if it does? I have the ingredients to make a batch, so I am going to whip up some this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 6 minutes ago, Off Grid said: Johnsons paste wax smells like it has turpentine or something similar in it, do you know if it does? I have the ingredients to make a batch, so I am going to whip up some this week. Paste waxes (Johnson's, Minwax, whatever) already contain solvent, so they don't need further mixing. Most use mineral spirits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Grid Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Yep, that's what it smells like, would johnsons paste wax work for metal preservative as described earlier in this thread? what if a guy mixed in some BLO? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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