October 28, 200916 yr lol i work in plastic extrusion as well i make 3.5" vertical blinds and the 2" horizontal blinds aswell benn doing it for bout 4 an a half years now
October 28, 200916 yr we make pipe from 20 mm to 575 mm and and everything in between for all sorts of applications
October 31, 200916 yr well today im gonna try to get pics of my forge:) its a homemade brake drum forge with 2"pipe and a 12v truck heater blower i should have them posted this evening:) Edited October 31, 200916 yr by bigcity
November 6, 200916 yr The forge I use depends. For the most part I use a NC gas forge. When stuff won't fit into it, like large tires, I use a Buffalo coal forge. And of course there is the Civil War era Traveling Forge that I am working on. The wheels are done, and I have re-started working on finishing it now that the kitchen in done. :D
November 7, 200916 yr well i am retarded when it comes to posting pic on the internet cant seem to get them to post i have a canon digital camra is there a certin setting i need to be able to post pics on this site? but anyway i made myself a #55 forge with a brake rotor as a firepot need to get the pics so i can post them:)
November 7, 200916 yr well i am retarded when it comes to posting pic on the internet cant seem to get them to post i have a canon digital camra is there a certin setting i need to be able to post pics on this site?.... That's ok, we still love you. :D My humble suggestion is to look up in you camera's manual on how to take pictures with two parameters: - jpeg, or jpg format - a filesize of less than 4.7 megabytes Where you are most likely to run into trouble posting pictures is when the filesize is too big. What I do is to pull the photograph into Picasa or Photoshop Essentials and then crop the photograph and save a copy of the photograph as a filetype of jpg with a filesize of less than 350 kilobytes. Then I click on the "Manage Attachments" button under Attachments and use that to find and upload the photograph to this Forum. Most likely your camera is saving the photographs as files that are too large to upload. Keep us informed of your progress. If you still have difficulties, then perhaps you could visit a local member of the forum for personalized assistance. And if that does not work, then perhaps a roadtrip to my house would be the solution. Between the two of us, we could probably figure it out. :D Edited November 7, 200916 yr by UnicornForge
November 9, 200916 yr ok i think i figured it out thank you for the advice:) ok this is my new forge i just made friday it is a 2 55gal drums stacked with a brake rotor for a fire pot 2" water pipe for the air a piece of 1/2 plate with an x cut in it for the grate and a shop vac for a blower i made in about 2hrs maybe give or take
November 9, 200916 yr My shop forge--oil furnace blower/injector for air with an air gate for positive air control.
November 9, 200916 yr Been working on this on and off when time permitted. It's all made from scap bits that were laying about. Feel free to critique as you like.....haven't fired it up yet maybe today.....OCGhttp://picasaweb.google.com/olcarguy/NewForge # Last couple pics are of some freebies I received. Can anyone identify the all thread in second last pic? Edited November 9, 200916 yr by olcarguy
November 9, 200916 yr Here are some pictures of my forge. It was made with angles, tee, 1/4" plate, furnace cement, fire brick and 2" black pipe fittings. The fire bricks are held together with straps and threaded rod which keeps them in compression. The first picture shows it on the hand truck which I use to move it out to where I forge. The forth picture shows the side table installed. I also threw in some pictures of my anvil stand on wheels. I can wheel it out and rotate the wheels up to use. The anvil, forge, post vice, and other misc. all store in a 3' x 5' corner of the garage. Bill
November 22, 200916 yr I got a new hood for my forge today, the old one was made from sheetrock and metal studs, and it lasted for 2 years, but my buddy Bob Trout had one he built about 2 years ago, never used it, it's been powder coated with a heat resistant paint, and after much badgering, he sold it to me. When I put it in, I will raise up my forge, I did not realize how low it sits, but the new short hood will take a lot less space, and it sure will look better.
November 22, 200916 yr i see those all the time in the construction industry. I'm sure they are used for many things, but i usually see them used to hold concrete wall forms in place.
November 22, 200916 yr This is my 'side-blast' forge with a solid tuyere/tew iron. The forge is reasonably common here in the UK, many of which are a variation on a theme constructed or at least sold by Vaughans or in my case; Glendale. The current offerings by these two suppliers/manufacturers are the modern counterpart of the Alldays & Onions type, albeit with either hand-cranked or electrically operated fans as opposed to Bellows. This forge is equipped with a British Alcosa hand-cranked fan, which is very useful for introducing a low volume of blast when getting the fire going, although once up to heat it certainly knackers your left arm!! I'm in the process of collecting materials to make a bottom-blast forge, having had the pleasure of being introduced to one the other week by Jez Bates. (Cheers Jez!!!).
November 22, 200916 yr Here's mine. Simple break drum forge. Made with 1/8" floor plate and 20 ga. steel 2x4's. Made the tuyere out of a piece of cast that I found that was dome shaped, and the piping is 2" black iron. Works great. I can burn metal anytime I feel like it.
November 22, 200916 yr Here is my most favorite solid fuel forge that I have ever built. The features I built into this forge are simple but meaningful to me from a half a century of forging with coal/coke forges. Here are some of the features that I included into this simple coal/coke forge that I felt was important to me. 1. If I need to step away from my forge for any reason, I can control the air flow rate by either turning up or down a rheostat that is connected by an extension cord, or I can just use the air gate that can be controlled from either side of the forge. 2. I also incorporated a leveler foot on the front right leg. 3. I can dump the ash gate by simply pulling on a chain. 4. I welded some
November 23, 200916 yr Nice looking forge Ted It would sure look nice painted machinery grey Mike Tanner
November 25, 200916 yr Sisu, with a hood you will always have smoke in your shop, especially with that small flu pipe, A larger flue pipe and making it into a side draft is really simple and will insure you a smoke free shop if the top of the flue is at least 4 feet above the peak of your building. Nice setup otherwise. This is the side draft forge I built for the Brown County Ag Museum Blacksmith shop. The smiths who have used it call it the "Super Sucker", its based on Uri Hofi's school forge flues.http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/museum%20forge%20construction/?action=view¤t=3b55e9da.pbw Edited November 25, 200916 yr by irnsrgn
November 26, 200916 yr Found these in a guys back yard while alley crawling ... two forges: one's a Champion steel pan with blower that still turns - bottom has rusted out but the tuyere is still intack and a cast iron forge of unknown make has a crack that runs fully thru one side with a missing piece that cracked out ... along with that I got 346# of coal. Cost - $100.00 The blower turns freely, but clinks when it is not vertical ... needs a shim maybe. Seems small compared to some I have seen ... anyway, I always keep looking. Seller said that the stuff belonged to his dad who ended up using the forges to start coals for BBQ ... been setting in a back yard for at least 7 years.
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