ironstein

anyang 88

Thanks for the reply Jim! I'll check it out.

I guess this could be a bit confusing to some. I'm looking for a handheld pneumatic rivet air hammer. Any suggestions on where to get one preferably with tooling beyond 5/16.

Looking for a good quality pneumatic rivet set. I know ingersol is a great tool, i'm just curious if anyone knows of a good quality set up with tooling. Or does everyone just make the tooling for their air hammers? I usually do them by hand, but i wan't to get a quick, quality rivet without marking up the parent material. I've worked around the "jitterbugs" that the ironworkers used, but i'm not looking to spend a grand on one of those. Any info or experience with a good set up will be very helpful. Thanks Brian

Foot amputation? Kind of a stretch don't ya think?

I'm over it, Daniel, i'll just send you some pictures. Amazing that the attachments on this site have been a pain in the rear for at least five years, some sites make it so easy, and some make it not worth the time to post pics.

well, that didn't work! Maybe this will.

Daniel, Here are some pictures of my treadle. I used solid round stock where the treadle goes into the rocker fittings, welded some 1/4" flat bar on the treadle face so there is more surface area, and my foot doesn't slip off. I widened everything so it will clear the wood base.

Looks like it put a beating on that slab!

It's a tool! I'm not worried about it, i am happy enough with it, after all they only dent if you miss! I'm sure if i pushed it he would make it right, but to tell you the truth, i don't have the energy to bother, it doesn't affect my work. I was just surprised to find out that another fontanini was hard enough to skate a file, he does state on his site " the material will dent but should not chip". i'll be looking forward to a reflinghaus or a nimba in the future! Brian

Yep, i used part of the old one and fabricated a beefier treadle. It definitely made her come alive! Well that and the new belts! Just fair warning, if you get one, you're gonna be strung out, i find myself dreaming of big steam hammers and upsetters, and huge presses and....well you get the idea! The late great Grant Sarver used to talk about guys buying $50,000 work trucks but balk at spending $10,000 on a hammer that will make you money. Since i set up shop near my home town of Park City, Utah i have been getting quite a bit of work from other metal shops and machine shops simply because they heard through the grapevine that i have a powerhammer. I'll get forging jobs that would take me two days over the anvil, and with the powerhammer i can bust it out in a few hours! Money well spent.

Well thats a bummer for me. I'm glad yours is heat treated properly. If i had known it would be this soft i would have forked over the cash for a Reflinghaus. I guess the light bulb should have come on when i bought the last 460lber! Its still a nice tool, just a bit softer than i'd like, i guess i need to make sure i hit the hot steel and not the anvil! If only i had a big enough heat treating oven and a geyser of water!

An angle grinder can be heard just as easily as the hammer, like John said.

I have an anyang 88, i just relocated my shop because my neighbors complained about noise! Now i am in a 5 unit building where the other four units are used for storage, and i have a three year lease with the noisemaking etc written into the lease. I am in an industrial area so the law is on my side. My anyang is not that noisy at idle, but you do hear it, and as for noise while hammering, my neighbors shared the same slab of concrete with my unit, so the vibration through the slab was what was bothering them. My other neighbors at different locations throughout the industrial park claim they can barely hear it while im hammering. I keep the doors closed when working with the hammer, if you are 100 yards away from your neighbors, have some soundproofing on the walls of the shop, and have the hammer isolated from the rest of the slab, ill bet you'd be ok. By the way, James is great to deal with before and after the purchase, his customer support is unsurpassed. As for the 88, i love it! I just put new belts on and it is like a brand new hammer! When i moved i re-installed the hammer with 4 inches of wood base, seems to quiet the "crack" that John mentioned. Great hammer, great guy to deal with.

@ Judson Yaggy, i have the 460lb rathole and it is soft, it dents very easily, i wish i had spent the money on a reflinghaus. Maybe my anvil never got heat treated? I'm thinking none of the ratholes get heat treat since they are h13.

Great control!

Nice hammer!

Bronze sculpture seems to do well here in Utah, my neighbor where I rent shop space creates as well as restores a lot of bronze sculpture. Occasionally I get work from a few other bronze guys and we all talk shop. I'll bet Avian would fetch 10 to 15 grand. During arts festival in Park City I'll bet it would sell for 15 to 20 grand. The venue you mention sounds promising, people who are willing to pay an entrance fee should be more familiar with pricing and process.

i've got a Doall 3 wheel 36" vertical bandsaw, made in '64, they still make this model, its $28,000 new. The older bandsaws are well made from heavy guage steel, oh and it has a blade welder. My horizontal bandsaw is a harbor freight, its the same model wilton and a few other manufacturers sell, its served me well, but i'd like to get something more accurate, maybe a cold saw?

i have an anyang 88, so im not much help with the comparison. You can't go wrong with an anyang, James Johnson is great to deal with, and his customer service is second to none. I love my 88, i couldn't live without it! Resale won't be a problem when you upgrade. As far as keeping up with the 33, you'd need a bionic arm, the 33 hits fast, and from what i have seen 1 inch stock is not a problem.

Nice work Mac!

The top and bottom of the block that holds the pin have keys, I figured that the shoulders of the block riding under the bottom of the table would keep the block from lifting, being a 4" key, it would keep lateral movement to a minimum as well. I will make a backing plate for the underside of the lower track just to be sure.

well i did make a slot top and bottom for the block to ride in, but we will see. The table is 7/8" thick, and the bottom "channel is 1/2" with a piece of 1/4" welded on top to give the block a nice thick surface to ride on. Any ideas would be appreciated, it seems to be locked in pretty good. I figured the slots i cut into the block will have enough surface area on the sides, and on the shelfs cut into the block. Only time will tell! I can still put a plate on the bottom of the block like you did, with zerks for grease, good idea. I thought a slot top and bottom would be enough.

Inspired by Bruce Macmillans bulldoze bender i decided to make a bender out of one of my tables. The table is 7/8" plate, it was some type of machine pedestal, i got two of them for $600! They measure roughly 6'x6'. I used my enerpac cylinder i got from Larry, its 30 ton, 10,000 psi. The pump i got at a swap meet for $75. So i drilled my table for 11/2" holes with a mag drill and annular cutter, worked great. I cut the slot (i think the table tops are hardened because it was tough stuff to cut, had to use a torch), made a block out of tank armor 4"x3"x8", and made heys on each end to slide in a slot on the table, and in a piece of 1/2" thick wall square tube for the bottom track. This thing works great, i can bend circles, and the cylinder is a push pull so if i can get my enerpac cylinder threaded, i can use it to pull s well. I didn't want to hijack Bruce's thread on the bulldoze bender, so i posted a new thread. Thanks Bruce, you inspired me!

I saw that hammer on American pickers too! I think the firestarter Chumlee was using was cerrosteel.