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I Forge Iron

rawtiron

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Everything posted by rawtiron

  1. Hi, I live nearby. Sent you a PM last night. Just reply to that if you'd like to catch up. Jason
  2. I picked this up a year or 2 ago for $150. Some cleaver person decided to mount a vice to it! I can't see any markings on it and it is very chipped/pitted. Any info would be appreciated. Jason
  3. It's just a bell housing with a shaft and 2 pulleys. Dads not too keen on giving up the other one with the clutch setup. He does have other engines of that size that have clutches and gearboxes, so I'm going to see what I can adapt as this housing has the holes in it for a release fork. This came off a wind rower or combine and they had a lever to tension the belt which might work too. Do you have any photos of the flat belt setup Alan?
  4. Picked up the engine today, turns out its a 55hp. Finished cleaning the tup up and refitted it to check the clearances, 0.009"- 0.011" with a feeler blade up the side, throughout the bore, top and bottom of the tup, without the guide wedge in place. And the piston has 0.016". Seems good for the 0.001" per inch rule. Jason
  5. Thanks guys. I found this article just now. http://www.olddominionblacksmith.com/uploads/forged_rockdrill_bits.pdf Just heading out to practice my one handed golf swing. Jason
  6. That's great, thanks everyone. So if the bits were feet long, how was this used? We're the forged tips attached afterwards? Jason
  7. I picked this up with some power hammer tooling last month. The guy gave this one to me and has several others like it in different sizes, larger then this. It'll probably be obvious once someone id's it....... Any information would be appreciated. Thank you, Jason
  8. How are you holding up over there Alan? Looks like you're going to need to crank the fire up.... Jason
  9. Sorry to hear that Alan, I was oblivious to it all over here. I've just been online to check it all out, bit of a mess you've got! You certainly appreciate having insurance at times like this. Jason
  10. Here's what I've got......... Flywheel has 105 teeth Motor gear has 21 teeth 105 / 21 = 5 5 x 150 bpm/rpm (as per that good blokes spec sheets) = 750 motor rpm Sound right? I think so....
  11. The motor plate looks to have been removed a long time ago, but I'll have a measure up and see what I come up with. I'm a fair way off getting all this set up as I have a pile of hardwood poles in the way, to be used on other projects around the property and some earthworks to be done, but it's good to get everything together and ready for when the time comes. Thanks, Jason
  12. Looks like I can get that hyspin 100 here ok. I've sent Mike an email regarding his engine so look forward to hearing from him. Bit of an update......... I spoke to the 2nd owner of the hammer the other day (I bought it off the third) and he has the motor mounting plate and is looking for the original manual. He put a tender in for it when the Napier Hatbour Board closed their workshops, it was used for repairs to the dredge creating the harbour itself. He said this was 25 odd years ago and he used to have it sitting on display in his shed, then parked it outside when the shed was used fo
  13. Maybe I've got this wrong/misunderstood Ian...... My first thought when you said 'disc' was to make it slightly smaller dia than the cover and tig braze it on the outside and drill the holes through it and blend it in. I've got up to 6mm plate lying around. That would not work with the thickness half the dia rule. Can you please explain it further for me. Thank you, Jason
  14. Hi Ian, I'll give it a go in a few days when I'm back out there, just been focused on the crack!! I've got some silicon bronze filler wire there. So still preheat it etc? And as far as the disc goes, 2-3mm thick? Thank you, Jason
  15. No problem Ian, we may all learn something here. A friend of mine who is a fitter/welder/turner (I am none of these) introduced me to it a few years back and I've only used it a few times. (Welded some corten legs to a very tough plough disc for a brazier and it flowed and welded beautifully) I've never welded cast iron before but it seemed to ok. It still cracked a little but then was ok when I went back over it and has held well for what I'm needing as it only holds a handle to turn the valve (and keeps it original). I'll drill and bolt it, if the weld ever fails. I did weld the other rea
  16. Great, thank you. It looks like that 46 grade oil is readily available here but I'll wait to hear from you. Happy New Year!! Jason
  17. Thanks a lot to you both, I feel bit easier about all now. There's is no movement in the bearings that I can feel with the pry bar under the flywheel. The decompression valve was rusted solid so I drilled out the pin on the handle and managed to work that almost off and the pin broke, so I tigged it back on with 312 wire. So far so good.... I then heated up the housing and freed the valve. It all cleaned up ok after that. Here's some photos of the tup clean up. I scraped it like you suggested Alan which got the looser rust off and then went over it with a brass wire wheel which made a huge
  18. Thank you again Alan. Do you think it's worth removing the piston and big end bearings? It all looks so clean (can't see the crank journal of course) and from what I can see of the rings through the valve at the back, they are clean also Or is it best to check it all anyway? Just in case... Jason
  19. Do you have the bigend torque settings Alan? Still not sure if I need to delve into that area or not, did you see my post/pictures above? Thank you, Jason
  20. Thanks Bob, I found this site recently too. Some good info and pictures. Jason
  21. Thanks for that info guys, I'll look into it further. My thoughts for running a combustion engine were to also power a large compressor for the shop when needed. I'll look at all avenues though, as I'm a while away from powering it up. I pulled the back plate off and removed the rotary valve this morning. I see what you mean by the engineering Alan, it's a work of art! I used a bar and pins to turn the flywheel as I had the piston soaking overnight, and it took 2 revolutions before I could turn it by hand. The oil pump works great too. There is some grey matter around the main bearings
  22. And out it comes!! I soaked it with trans fluid and turps, tapped the bottom of the tup back and forth and side to side, jacked and released till the fluid started dripping then tapped it on top with the sledge and a block of wood. Flushed the mixture through it a couple of times and waited about 2 hours. Got the jack on it and away it went, so I moved it about 10mm up then down to free the suspected rust and out it came. The bore looks good (a few vertical surface scratches) and as you can see the piston will need some work to the lower half.
  23. Merry Christmas everyone. A few more progress shots. Both bores look in good shape. The piston has some what I guess are casting imperfections in the top. The tup is seized solid, I've had a 20 ton bottle jack on it with reasonable pressure but no movey movey. Even whacking it down with a block of wood and a sedge it won't budge. Its about 50mm (2 inches) above the wedge so I'm guessing it's either rusted in the lower part of the bore where water could've got in around the wedge nuts or jammed. I've loaded it with penetrating oil so hopefully that frees it up or I'm unsure where to go w
  24. Hi Ian, I paid a bit extra for the tooling but still very good value. The guy kept the anvil and swage block and still has a pile of top and bottom tools. I've spent enough at the moment so will see if he's still got them after the new year. They were all sitting in a big box outside for years, but a wire wheel fixes that. Jason
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