Winston Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 What do you put on your hammer handles? I have been putting my linseed oil mix and it seems to seal, smooth, and add extra grip. I would like something darker though. Not that it should matter, but I like to look at a dark hammer handle. It just feels more used. Maybe it makes me feel like I have actually been using them. Quote
eric sprado Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 Experiment with putting a few drops of various stains in your linseed oil. Most stains mix with linseed just fine... Quote
Francis Trez Cole Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 there is a produce called stove black it you want is black. but I do not put any thing on my handle Quote
Fe-Wood Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 use the hammer and the smithing will give you the best color/patina. I leave mine sanded with 60 grit roughness and dirt from working.... Works and looks fine Some people like to use Pine Tar for added grip.... I find I don't need it... Quote
mtforge Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 I agree. I rasp my handles to the shape I want then file any rough spots down. No finish. As I'm using them if they get built up with dirt, grime or whatever I wipe them down to take it off. I find if the handle sticks in my hand it causes problems. Quote
NRunals Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 A linseed oil coat will darken a lot over the years. Especially if you're using it often. I either use straight linseed, or linseed and beeswax. Quote
DClaville Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 finish sand them with grip 80 and then a long soak in boiled linseed oil they will get blackish very fast as you use them. Quote
wolfshieldrx Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 A hammer head. Sorry, couldn't resist! I uas a linseed oil/beeswax/terpentine mixture. Plus sweat, coad dust ets with time. Quote
jimbob Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 I use a vixen file to smooth the sides then I use mineral oil rubbed in;they get dark from work Quote
jimmy seale Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 blood,sweat& tears work here....and occasional foul language Quote
ironstein Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 I like using pine tar. It gives a bit of extra grip, and helps with blisters since i am currently a weekend warrior. Its good for burns too! Quote
thingmaker3 Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 The "authentic" aged look requires more fly ash & grease in the area where the grubby paw goes & more of a "clean" aged look up near the head & down near the end. Add a burn mark or two to please the connoisseurs. Don't forget to ding up the side of the head as well! :D Quote
Marksnagel Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 blood,sweat& tears work here....and occasional foul language I agree execpt for the language. Wellll not really, maybe a small dose every now and then. I'm not perfect, just forgiv'n. Mark <°((>< Quote
EWCTool Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 I have heard that used motor oil will help with sealing the wood, and i bet it would give the color that you are after. I have also been told by older and wiser folk that they would soak the bottom of a fence post in motor oil before putting it in the ground to help seal the wood. They did say that the practice is not as popular because the impact it could have on the environment. Quote
glen56 Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 linseed oil and all of the above ,how do you keep your hammer head in place ,always used steel wedges ,a good mate down in orange told me about useing wooden wedges and a piece of steel tubing (steel tubing champhered and punched in sawn off and hit down flush)best thing since sliced bread , :D Quote
ThomasPowers Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 I use the one longitudinal wooden wedge and one or two steel cross wedges and then SOAK the *head* in a shallow pan of linseed oil. Very dry here in NM, USA, single digit humidity is common! The soak in linseed oil helps keep the handle from shrinking. (Also I don't use a commercial handle till it's been here a year or so.---I buy them cheap when I can and then stick them on a wire shelf to NM-Season; so I always have some to hand for new tools or repairs) My wedges are often hardwoods in contrasting colours and pattern welded steel bits; always have scrap around of both from knifemaking...) Quote
ironstein Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 A pattern welded wedge is a nice touch Thomas. I too have some scraps of that laying around, i think i will steal your idea. Quote
Job R Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 Just this week I tried soaking head in antifreeze, I read somewhere (probably here) that it does not evaporate and snugs up real nice and tight . Makes sence to me so I tried it , we shal see. Quote
Rob Browne Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 Mine just have sweat and coal dust on them. They get a "beautiful" look after a while :) Quote
clinton Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 Yep- Pine tar on the hands works into the handle, gives a real good grip. Soak the head in antifreeze, but do not leave it in there too long 2 or 3 hours should do the trick Quote
ThomasPowers Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 And remember that a pan of antifreeze is an attractive poison for pets! Quote
Dodge Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 A quick, down and dirty method to darken any wood is fire! I've used a propane torch or even the dragon's breath of my gasser to blast a handle. It causes part of the grain to blacken quicker than the rest giving a nice contrast. (Just like etching pattern welded metals) Don't cook it too long or you get a charcoal handle Then just slather with Minwax or whatever and wipe off with a rag. Scott Quote
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