mtforge

I use a cast iron drain grate from McMaster-Carr 2413K2 http://www.mcmaster.com/#drain-grating/=yhezd9 I keep it loose enough to swap out when it burns out. But I also use castable refractory to make a cone shape down to it. It seems to be more economical on the coal. http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/42166-lining-a-brake-drum-forge/?page=2

Here's how we set one up in Congo.

I'm in northeast Indiana and that's where I go. Good price great coal.

My shop is about 20 miles south of Fort Wayne. You could come over to visit if you want. Not Sat though as we'll be at the IBA conference. Of course I could pick you up and take you to the conference if you want.

What I use for my brake drum traveling forge is high temp refractory from a local supplier. I mix it thick, put the cast iron drain grate that I'm going to use in the bottom and trowel it in from the top edge of the brake drum to the edge of the drain grate. I can then replace the drain grate when it burns out. This gives me a more efficient fire. I've been using this way for 18 years and it works as good as my large store bought shop forge. The picture shows a store bought center but I've since went to a cast iron drain grate. Works just as good and is cheaper.

I was going to build a press using solenoids and limit switches as I was an industrial maintenance man and was used to them. But when I went full time I bought a ready to run press from http://www.oldworldanvils.com/hydraulic_presses/index.html He uses what looks to me to be a log splitter style manual valve on a treadle. I'm glad I didn't build one my way. With this setup I can bring the press down at full speed, stop it any where I want, gently touch the stock or apply full tonnage just by pressing the treadle down. I like the speed so I can get to the hot metal faster. I also have an adjustment to only lift as high as needed before it stops the upward travel. No need to full stroke the cylinder. My press is in the back of Randy's book with some of my tooling. And my daughter running it.

My bulk tank has a 30# regulator at the tank. I then have a regulator at each forge or torch as needed.

I hadn't heard of this book before. It came today and has got to be the best book on rushlights I've seen. And I have a few of them.

My shut off valve is at the top of the 1/8" nipple going into the tee burner. It has a plastic handle and doesn't get hot. My regulator with plastic gauge is above this. No problems. I do run the propane hose up before running over to the manifold mounted to the wall.

http://mtforge.com/Catalog/page4/pages/lighting.htm http://jas-townsend.com/iron-betty-lamp-p-1009.html The counter weight on the rushlight I make might be used to hold a candle but its a snuffer for the rush.

Starting out cutting stock (saw, hand shear), punching, marking. Stuff to free up my daughter and me to forge. Closest trade school is in the next county

We have a need for help. How do others go about hiring employees. I've been a maintenace manager in a previous life so I know the nuts and bolts. I currently have employees but its mostly been in the family. Do you advertise in a newspaper? Online? State unemployment office?

When I'm told about grandpa or other distant relative being a blacksmith I sometimes tell that that my daughter's kids also have a grandpa who is a blacksmith. But I usually ask them if they have any left over blacksmith tools and such they would like to donate to a worthy blacksmith. Me :D

Steve, I missed you Sat at the Maumee Valley blacksmith meeting. It was only -4. Actually I was the only one who showed up. Says a lot about me I guess.

I use my flat dies for general work and for tooling, spring dies and such. I have not relieved the edges much on the front as it great for drawing out material for the hooks on utensils and such.