VainEnd84

I tried using a 1/2" pipe cross to build a "T" burner and found that it could not be tuned properly, you simply can't get enough air, I suspect if you machined out the inlets so their internal diameter is the same as a 3/4" pipe T that that would solve the issue but that requires access to a lathe. I also tried using a 3/4" pipe cross and a reducing bushing so I could go from 3/4" to 1/2" but it creates a great deal of turbulence and an unstable flame. I suspect if you could get a properly machined reducer with a smooth taper this issue would be solved but that would require some very good machining. If there were reducing pipe crosses on the market that too would solve the issue but I have not been able to find any anywhere. I contacted a machining shop near me who could manufacture the part but the cost was about $300 and for that I would rather just buy an already machined and finished burner.

Glad I could provide some info, and it has become somewhat lucrative for him, but he had nearly 20 years experience in making blades before he tried making practice weapons

As someone who practices HEMA (Historical European Martial Arts) or WMA (Western Martial Arts) most clubs / groups won't allow bluntnpractice swords from anyone who can't show a long series of strenuous tests on multiple weapons. There is a blacksmith in a town not too far away who wanted to sell custom practice weapons to several of the groups in several Canadian cities, and we all provided him with a list of requirements and a need for evidence of the requirements being met,l. He spent a year and a half making about 100 different practice weapons before he provided us the final products for our testing and inspection, we then sent them back with a list of changes that needed to be made so he made 20 more with said changes and send them to us and that resulted in his gen. 1 practice messers and feders. In total he spent over $10000 developing the weapons and the tools he needed to make them properly. He was also advised to increase his insurance coverage to $5000000. The blunt practice weapons we use need to be very flexible with out taking a set, and need to be very tough because there is constant steel on steel contact. One of the best manufacturers, in my opinion, is http://regenyei.com/. Check out their products if you want to know more about what is required by hema practitioners.

I certainly am planning on making an internal wall. I have some soft fire brick, the 1" kiln shelf, and some left over ceramic blanket and refractory, what would you suggest I use for the internal wall?

I do have a question, should I use fire brick to close the back or would kiln shelf work? I have a bit of 1" kiln shelf that came with the thinner stuff I'm going to be using for to floor (I got it on kijiji as a lot)

It looks awesome! Can't wait to see it fired up

I started planning my forge build about 8 months ago when it was still too cold to build or really spend any extended amount of time outside. Well it's summerish here in the great white north so I could finally build my forge. Here are the spec, the shell is made from a 5 gallon auxiliary compressor tank that I got for free, it is lined with 2" kaolin-2600 ceramic blanket, which has been rigidized and coated with a castable refractory. I was asked by the person who sold it not to name it because it is still in the process of being patented but I can say it is similar to plistix. I will be using a 3/8" kiln shelf as the floor. I am using 2 1/2" Frosty T burners. This is a quick video of the first firing of my forge, a few notes: - I know I need to tune the burners - that is not the table it will be mounted on, mostly because wood burns and uncontrolled fire is bad - it reached an incandescent heat in 5 min running at 10 psi - I know my plumbing is ugly, but I works and that's what matters

That sounds right from what I remember reading. I'm fairly certain Wayne Coe has instructions on his website somewhere

That burner design looks very similar to these ones https://forgeburners.com, some people love them, some have had a difficult time getting them tuned, from what I've read.

@SLAG I knew anvil wasn't the correct term but I just couldn't remember what its proper name was, thanks! And I would never use it as an anvil I have a 98lb Peter wright for that! It is a shop decoration/door stop/occasional tripping hazard.

A little late but as promised here is a pic of my grandpas old cobblers anvil. It weighs about 10lbs

I'll take a pic when I'm at my shop next, it'll be a few days but I won't forget!

Actually my grandpa was a cobbler in holland, and a car salesman, and tinkerer here in Edmonton. I actually have the old cobblers anvil that he also brought from holland.

I did a heat treat for one reasons, that being that I was dumb and didn't cool the faces while grinding them down and lost the temper, I heated the flat hot enough while grinding to bring it to light blue, was probably close to 625 degrees. Lesson learned, keep your tools cool!

The wool lining is 8# kaowool rated to 2600 degrees (rebranded to a different name because Canada) and it is coated with an itc-100 like coating, that's what I was told at any rate, I know there it a hard refractory cement cast on the bottom but I know nothing about what type of refractory it is.