VainEnd84

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About VainEnd84

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    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
  1. Or you can just go to the pin near the top of this section of IFI @Twhitson15 the t-burner really is one of the simplest designs and it works really well. But there is no one best burner, it really depends on the type of forge you are going to build and what you want it to do. You are going to have to do some research and figure out your forge design and needs first, this will lead you to what style of burner is going to work for you.
  2. @Frog8fly I have never seen a setup like that for propane so I can't say if it is necessary or not. I just had a thought, are you sure it is propane and not propeline? Propane is fairly dangerous and not knowing your local regulations regarding propane I can't give a specific answer, you may want to find a local propane, hvac, or plumber that deals with propane and get some answers directly from them. All of that being said you usually do not want to run more than one regulator off of a gas system unless it is a down line low pressure regulator, as stated previously, they can interfere with each other.
  3. You get either an ACME or POL fitting (these connect to the propane tank valve) with the appropriate hose connector (probably 1/4" flare but it depends on the type of hose you have). All that being said, it looks as though your propane tank has a regulator built in to the valve, if that is the case then you may want to get a new propane tank.
  4. Most of these questions have been answered in the "forges 101" pin, the "burners 101" pin, and the "T-burners" pin. I'm sure the more experienced members will chime in soon and say something to the effect of "there is no perfect forge especially when it is your first forge". That being said from what I have read, a vertical round forge will serve as a better all around forge for being able to do all three things you are talking about. A single well built 3/4" naturally aspirated burner should work well for a forge built from a 20 lb propane tank. When you say funds are tight what do you mean? There are cheaper options but you will still likely be looking at spending at least $200 on building a forge unless you are very patient and willing to look around and hunt for scraps. Hope this helps. Also if you add your location to your profile you may be surprised at how many members are near you.
  5. This really is the best solution. A bigger tank also works well, but the increased surface area:volume ration of, for example, 3 twenty lb tanks vs 1 sixty lb tank makes it less likely that the multiple tanks will freeze up compared to a single tank despite the overall volume being the same.
  6. These work but are against code in many areas. So check with local regulations.
  7. I'm sure this has been posted before but I haven't seen it so just thought I would share. I came across an online version of the Machinery's Handbook, specifically the portion about heat treating and it is an awesome resource! I don't think this goes against any IFI rules, if it does sorry in advance and admins feel free to remove. http://www.zianet.com/ebear/metal/heattreat0.html
  8. Could you post some pictures and perhaps a video of your set up running? Will help folks her to diagnose the potential issues.
  9. Oh, well now I feel kind of silly, but onwards and upwards! I will correct my error with the new parts. I haven't plugged the burners into my brick pile forge yet but will hopefully get there sometime this week, and it's supposed to warm up next weekend so I may actually be able to build my proper forge!
  10. I must have misread the directions, I thought the openings on the T needed to be double the inside diameter of the mixing tube. I have, however, found a local source for reducing T's in many different sizes so I won't have to use a reducing bushing which should make tuning them easier. Yes I will be using them in a forge. Once it's not -30c and I can work in my unheated shop comfortably, I will actually be able to build the darn thing.
  11. I've finally found the time to build the second burner that I will be using in my forge, It needs a little tuning but they seem to be running well. Now I just need it to warm up enough here so I can finally build my forge. Here is a video of the two burner setup. https://youtu.be/ZgAjNPoO6r4
  12. My understanding is that the temperature rating is the average temperature the fire brick can withstand before it starts to oxidize or thermally decompose. Also the exterior of the brick will reach a higher temperature. A double layer may solve the second issue but not the first. Hope that helps!
  13. Hi Mitch, I would suggest doing a google search for propane suppliers or natural gas suppliers, even hvac and plumbing suppliers in your local area, I'm sure there are more than a few. Give them a call and give them a rough idea what you are looking for. The staff at those types of shops are infinitely more helpful and will know more than most staff at big box stores.
  14. First of all welcome! Second there are two pins that you should read through, Burners 101 and Forges 101 yes it will take a few hours but it is well worth it, bring a note pad and take notes. You can also go to wayne coe's website, he has lots of info on forge making. Folks here won't spoon feed you the info, they will however answer questions when it seems that you have done your homework first.
  15. The stock likely won't be more than 4" long, and it will be a while before I start using anything that big. I have looked at the plans on Wayne's website and I've been having trouble sourcing material for a body that size, also my work space is limited which is why I'm going for a small forge, I just wanted something a step up from my two brick forge, and something that would be relatively cheap to build, I'm considering this a learning project so that when I do get a larger shop and materials for a larger forge I will know more what I am doing. And I do have someone enthralled to be a striker for me, at least until I get a bigger shop and can build a treadle hammer, thanks very much for the info!