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I Forge Iron

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13 minutes ago, Kozzy said:

I won't copy the photo again but you have some great toys--which got me thinking about what you can't live without.  That's a bit hard to answer so I'll reverse it:  If you HAD to make some room, what would you live without?  Something that you thought you'd use but collects more dust than other tools?

Oh..and is that ball anvil a big steel sphere?

Yes the round anvil is a steel sphere approx. 9 inch Dia.

The power hammers get used the least but I would keep the Iron Kiss

50 minutes ago, Ethan the blacksmith said:

that is a very nice shop! what are the anvil stands made off?

The stand in the center is Cast Iron

the others are made from steel plate ( they run from 1/2 " to 1 " thick depending on the size of the anvil

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am working on designing a new shop for the new place.  It is going to be much smaller than the last one, probably 20 x 20 to maybe 24 x 24 with an additional 1/3 the sqft as outside covered work area.  It gets a bit tricky here because there were CCRs recorded back in the 50s but no active HOA.  There is a limitation on outbuildings restricting such buildings to garages.  Then there are setbacks, etc.  We have hired a designer to design and take it through the permiting process.  If anyone has photos or suggestions on design of a shop this size I would like to hear them.  At this point I want roll up or barn doors in the front and out to the covered areas, a built in gantry inside the front door, ample power and lighting.  With the small space I plan to put everything I can on castors to make adapting to different projects easier.

Thanks

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The type of work you plan to do will have a controlling part of your design.   Which you have not mentioned. A blade shop is quite different than a Gate shop for instance. I don't know where you live Billy; however I would suggest that at least 1 wall is longer than the standard length for steel in your country.  Here in the USA that is 20'.  It is quite handy to be able to stack full length pieces of stock inside your shop for security, access, and keeping it out of the weather. (Where I am at that means it's cool enough to touch with the bare hand when you need to get a piece; other locations it's warm enough to touch bare handed...)

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I am in the South West like yourself.  I do all sorts of wood and metal work thus the need for flexibility.  This is a tiny space to fit everything in and not have it like a crammed storage locker.  I have just started toying with bladesmithing.  Current project is a 240' steel fence.  Next is a 65' steel pedestrian bridge built in pieces and assembled at the site.

Equipment going in the shop includes a large compressor, table saw, planer, verticle bandsaw, power hacksaw, belt sander, belt grinder, bench grinder, drill press, Oxy acetylene rig, 3 welders, chop saws, gas forge, coal forge, 300lb anvil, work tables, ect.  There will also have to be storage for a hefty collection of hand held power and air tools.  There is also the normal mechanics tools and other various woodworking tools.  I am also building a power hammer.

My current thinking is have the forge related items outside in the covered work area.  I may be able to get away with covering some of the area at the side of the building in the set back area for stock storage after the building has it's final inspection.

 

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I'd replied to this about 5 yesrs ago. Pic ssems lost but here's my corner of the patio setup. 104 # PW, pair of vises on stand, tool table, Tiger blower, forge table, grinder/wirewheel and power hacksaw. Not seen are a homemade swage block and the freon tank propane forge. 

IMG_20151118_135857885.jpg

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Mixing woodworking tools and smithing tools is not suggested as woodworking tends to produce dust that grinding/welding/forging sparks tend to find. Too bad you can't have a longer structure divided in two with a wall and a door in between...

Sounds like you need to keep a largish central area to allow for layout.  Tools on lockable wheels to move what you are using to the use area?  Security of your covered area?  Can you make a dedicated compressor  shelter external to the shop?  They tend to be noisy, much better if that noise is outside your work area *UNLESS* you have neighbors...

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Lawnjockey, don't mix your metal and wood areas.  Especially if you are doing a lot of wood work.  Your plan to have items outside is a good one just make sure you can keep a door closed to the wood area.  One spark in the wrong place can smoulder and burst into flames later.

I own a former boat repair business (now just storage).  When it was going full guns one of my mechanics decided it was a hassle to sand a swim platform with the air sander in the wood shop.  Decided it was closer and quicker to use the belt sander in the metal shop.  He did this while I was away.  I got back and needed to finish some aluminum work on that belt sander.

An hour or so after I finished, the belt sander burst into flames.  He had cleaned up around the sander but not the sander itself.  If no one was there my shop would have been gone. I am so happy I don't have employees anymore. At least if someone does something dumb it is me.

 

The belt sander survived.  You just can't kill the old harbor freight machines.

 

 

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Unfortunately I can only go so big and still get away calling it a garage.  Thus I will have to mix both metal and wood but not necessarily at the same time.  When I started looking at this thread I was hoping to see photos as to how others have solved the space/mixed use problems but the photos have disappeared.

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Greetings Lawnjockey,

There is no prefect building for all the toys. The only answer for me was more than one .. I have 6 buildings all togather each have there own function . Welding , sheet metal, small BS shop for teaching and of course the big mother. Not gloating just thought I would show you the possibilitys. take into consideration that it took me 40 years.. The small white one "Studio FE 26 is my favorite where I do most of my demo  and teaching.. Good luck on your build..

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

 

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Lawnjockey, 

The dementions of Studio FE 26 is 16x20. I built this shop in my basement and than assembled it over a two week process. Very functional but I get teased all the time because it has skylights and the interior is painted white with lots of light.. The center section with the skylights has a sliding door that allows for ceiling ventilation .. Most say that they could live there. Go figure. 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

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On 1/24/2016 at 10:22 PM, Jim Coke said:

Lawnjockey, 

The dementions of Studio FE 26 is 16x20. I built this shop in my basement and than assembled it over a two week process. Very functional but I get teased all the time because it has skylights and the interior is painted white with lots of light.. The center section with the skylights has a sliding door that allows for ceiling ventilation .. Most say that they could live there. Go figure. 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

I recently moved my forge into my garage which had been my cabinet shop. There are 4 skylights in the main area which are nice until the sun starts to go down and I loose all color at my anvil. I don't forge for a living and so far the sun hasn't gotten stuck shining right on my anvil (which is nice) so I won't be making any curtains anytime soon, but it does make things interesting for a bit...

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Greetings Foxfire, 

If you look close you will see the skylight pattern on the floor. By design. My forge and hood are painted black so when you want a specific forging color just hold it up to the background.. Works for me.. These old eyes sure like a light on my work . Good luck with your new space.

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

That's going to be a nice space. I'm thinking it's going to get pretty wet when it rains, clay floor and under a slope. Unless the pic is misleading, easy to be, it looks like the ground slopes down right to the shop wall. Water flows down hill you might want to put a drain trench around it.

Is the pup keeping you guys in line?

Frosty The Lucky.

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On January 22, 2016 at 11:59 AM, Michael said:

I'd replied to this about 5 yesrs ago. Pic ssems lost but here's my corner of the patio setup. 104 # PW, pair of vises on stand, tool table, Tiger blower, forge table, grinder/wirewheel and power hacksaw. Not seen are a homemade swage block and the freon tank propane forge. 

IMG_20151118_135857885.jpg

Do you think that you can show me a picture of that homemade swage block and freon forge. Homemade swage block sounds interesting, and I am building a freon forge. Pictures would be a great help! Also, I like your set up. It is a nice sized work area. Thanks

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On 2/25/2016 at 6:12 PM, Forging Carver said:

Do you think that you can show me a picture of that homemade swage block and freon forge. Homemade swage block sounds interesting, and I am building a freon forge. Pictures would be a great help! Also, I like your set up. It is a nice sized work area. Thanks

Here's the swage block, though I didn't make it, Got it when a a friend was moving her shop, don't know if she made it either. I think it started as a section of RR track with a lot of welding and grinding, but I could be wrong, About a foot long and a little under 6 inches square. Not sure of the weight. I find the bowls and curves on the side facing the camera in the first pic the most useful.

Freon tank gas forge, before I cut down the burner tube as per Frosty.  1 inch of kaowool, ITC 100 and kiln shelving for the floor and back door. I close up the front with firebricks.  Very important to make the floor of the forge and the opening one fire brick high, so you can stack bricks in front to make a porch the work can rest on.  I followed Ron Reil's instructions to the letter and the 3/4 burner worked great first time I fired it up. I've not had to mess with it since except to cut it shorter. I did all the bolting of the legs, handle, back door brackets and burner holder thru the narrow opening cut in the Freon tank, then once it was standing, measured with a firebrick and cut the front door opening. The kiln shelf floor rests on the ends of the bolts holding the legs on, the whole space under the shelf filled with kaowool. 

 

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