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Also I found the TPAAAT method and applied yesterday around 5pm. I've had 1 person already come up with 3 anvils in Harrisburg PA where I have good friends living. 

So anybody that's new to this like me looking for really any type of tool: 

Tell EVERYBODY you know what youre looking for. Someone WILL come up with something. 

I was following what I read on the Beginner buyer's guide. I assumed that the edges didnt have to be perfect angles and to me it doesn't look like it has a bad sway. That being said I wouldn't pay anywhere near that for it. Like I said I offered 2.50 to 3$US. Not 7.47$. 

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Right on Glenn.. :)

Jymm makes a great product. I forged on one of his 300+ units and it's great.   

Super responsive and has nearly all the features one could ask for in an anvil.   the horn to face corners are decent too..  Not as large of a step comparted to the Peddinghaus. 

This photo is of a right hand anvil. 

IMG_0394a800x466.jpg

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Hey guys 

I'm sorry if i'm posting in the wrong area and for some reason I keep getting an error when I try to upload a pic of my anvil.  I have a question about my Wilkinson Queens Dudley anvil.

I think it's a 125-130 lbs, the numbers on the side are 1,0,15.  I'm wondering if anyone knows how it may have been constructed/materials used as I want to get he face and shoulders repaired, and how I go about doing it.

 

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Welcome to the forum, ZBarrett.  You are posting in the correct forum.  The simple reason you keep getting an error when you try up upload pics is because they are too large.  Resize them down 50% and they'll upload just fine.  We'd like to see your anvil.

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Nothing there to repair.  Heat up some steel and start pounding it into shapes you want to create!  Don't mess with trying to "repair" anything.  You'll likely do more damage than you think you are trying to repair! 

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6 hours ago, ZBarrett said:

numbers on the side are 1,0,15. 

That is the hundred weight 127 pounds 1=112 pounds + 0 +15 pounds as when made.  There are several threads on the Wilkinson Queens  Dudley anvil. If you do a search using your favorite search engine (Google) like this without the quote marks "Wilkinson Queens Dudley site:iforgeiron.com" I got 73 hits.:)

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Wrought iron body and a steel face.  It looks good for another 100 years to me. 

Practical Blacksmithing;Volume 1, published in 1889; page 110: "For my own part I am satisfied not only that the sharp edges are useless, but that they are also destructive of good work. I cannot account for their existence except as a relic of a time  when the principles of forging were but little understood. I want both edges of my anvil rounded, not simply for a part of their length, but for their whole length."

If you need a sharp edge for a particular process make a hardy hole tool with 1 or more. (You can actually use a block of steel the correct side and make a tool with 4 different edges to use each one a different radius, say 0",1/8",1/4",1/2")

If you absolute MUST redo that anvil;  a search using my browser, Google Chrome, on:   anvil repair site:iforgeiron.com     resulted in 1690 hits; including a couple where I posted that excerpt before and most saying DON'T DO IT! but instructions on the correct method generally mentioned, (Hint look for Robb Gunther and Karl Schuler)

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I can't say this enough thank you all so very much.  I have very quickly decided to leave my anvil alone, and make a hardy tool block with several radius. I've been attempting to learn the Brian Brazeal  method of doing tappers. It's probably me but it feels like my anvils edges are to curved for it. I'm probably wrong in this and it's just my method lol.  oh well now to figure out what to make that block from and practice by making leaves and hooks.

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