At $7.47 per pound asking price, you can buy an brand new anvil for that.

The new standard for anvils

Over priced..  You could get a Kanca or other model for a few more dollar and have somethign brand new. 

the corners are not even that good.   for that kind of money your better off to keep looking..  I'd buy new. 

That would be a definite "NO" for me...........but that's just my opinion.  I looked at the original listing to see the edges and there basically are none! 

Glenn beat me to it. 

 

Also I found the TPAAAT method and applied yesterday around 5pm. I've had 1 person already come up with 3 anvils in Harrisburg PA where I have good friends living. 

So anybody that's new to this like me looking for really any type of tool: 

Tell EVERYBODY you know what youre looking for. Someone WILL come up with something. 

I was following what I read on the Beginner buyer's guide. I assumed that the edges didnt have to be perfect angles and to me it doesn't look like it has a bad sway. That being said I wouldn't pay anywhere near that for it. Like I said I offered 2.50 to 3$US. Not 7.47$. 

So was that everybodies final opinion on the hay budden I found? For the price I offered not he listed. Just want to know before I head out this weekend searching. 

 

I have a couple hits in PA but it's a 12hr drive. 

If you are going to PA, contact Jymm Hoffman about his NEW anvils.    

Right on Glenn..

Jymm makes a great product. I forged on one of his 300+ units and it's great.   

Super responsive and has nearly all the features one could ask for in an anvil.   the horn to face corners are decent too..  Not as large of a step comparted to the Peddinghaus. 

This photo is of a right hand anvil. 

That sure is a beautiful anvil.

Sure is . He modified  all the design elements he wanted in it.

The narrow thickness side shelf, drop down for both hardie hole and pritchel hole, nice horn with very little offset at the face to horn transition. 

Hey guys 

I'm sorry if i'm posting in the wrong area and for some reason I keep getting an error when I try to upload a pic of my anvil.  I have a question about my Wilkinson Queens Dudley anvil.

I think it's a 125-130 lbs, the numbers on the side are 1,0,15.  I'm wondering if anyone knows how it may have been constructed/materials used as I want to get he face and shoulders repaired, and how I go about doing it.

 

Welcome to the forum, ZBarrett.  You are posting in the correct forum.  The simple reason you keep getting an error when you try up upload pics is because they are too large.  Resize them down 50% and they'll upload just fine.  We'd like to see your anvil.

Here we go. as you can see it's beaten fairly well, but I feel its repairable, as I said before I'm just not sure how. Thanks for the help with my pics Chris C.

Nothing there to repair.  Heat up some steel and start pounding it into shapes you want to create!  Don't mess with trying to "repair" anything.  You'll likely do more damage than you think you are trying to repair! 

Agreed. Looks good. The only thing it needs is use. 

I've been having problems with uploading photos too.. Ever since the Virus has forced many onto online..  No good time now to upload. 

I've tried to resize too and it's a hit or miss even at 2MB.. 

My photos on the forum are around 450 KB and they never fail to load.

Thanks for the input guys.  Does anyone know what it's made from, how I can find out how old it is, I tried looking up the company but didn't find much,  so i figured this is the best place to get info on my anvil.

6 hours ago, ZBarrett said:

numbers on the side are 1,0,15. 

That is the hundred weight 127 pounds 1=112 pounds + 0 +15 pounds as when made.  There are several threads on the Wilkinson Queens  Dudley anvil. If you do a search using your favorite search engine (Google) like this without the quote marks "Wilkinson Queens Dudley site:iforgeiron.com" I got 73 hits.

Thanks for all the info, I've got alot of reading to do.  

Wrought iron body and a steel face.  It looks good for another 100 years to me. 

Practical Blacksmithing;Volume 1, published in 1889; page 110: "For my own part I am satisfied not only that the sharp edges are useless, but that they are also destructive of good work. I cannot account for their existence except as a relic of a time  when the principles of forging were but little understood. I want both edges of my anvil rounded, not simply for a part of their length, but for their whole length."

If you need a sharp edge for a particular process make a hardy hole tool with 1 or more. (You can actually use a block of steel the correct side and make a tool with 4 different edges to use each one a different radius, say 0",1/8",1/4",1/2")

If you absolute MUST redo that anvil;  a search using my browser, Google Chrome, on:   anvil repair site:iforgeiron.com     resulted in 1690 hits; including a couple where I posted that excerpt before and most saying DON'T DO IT! but instructions on the correct method generally mentioned, (Hint look for Robb Gunther and Karl Schuler)

Thomas great info.

Good idea on the set for the anvil with different radius. 

There are times where having a few inches of a specific radius comes in handy and with old anvils that may be a problem; but one with a simple, cheap and easy solution.  My by-words if not particularly my description.

I did up my anvil with 3 different radii on the edges, and one square edge.

I can't say this enough thank you all so very much.  I have very quickly decided to leave my anvil alone, and make a hardy tool block with several radius. I've been attempting to learn the Brian Brazeal  method of doing tappers. It's probably me but it feels like my anvils edges are to curved for it. I'm probably wrong in this and it's just my method lol.  oh well now to figure out what to make that block from and practice by making leaves and hooks.