Jump to content
I Forge Iron

White Nomad

Members
  • Content Count

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About White Nomad

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia, Brisbane
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, machining, programming and playing video games

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. No, not a blade like that, I mean instead of the blade being flat or curve away from you before the tip, the blade bends inwards towards you before the tip, I'll upload a pic when I get home and if I remember. I ended up using a really short sen knife and files and just creating the bevel like that, and then used a curved sharpening stone and ceramic to sharpen.
  2. Yes, I can try other clays. The clay I dig up is an orange colour, but there is a clay source near me that is a white/grey colour. Would that be any different? Also I have used bentonite (cat litter clay) before, however it shrinks a lot when drying, though that could probably be fixed with a plasticizer like lime or ash.
  3. Sorry for the late reply, I've been busy. The most accurate I can get with the classification is that it's mild steel, and quenches pretty well in water. If there is another way I can find out specifically what I'm working with using some method at home, do let me know. I'm asking into annealing for these materials because I hand file everything given that I'm only just learning how to effectively use my bench sander/grinder, and it would be easier and quicker if the material were softer, and for the bench sander, I figured a softer material would make the belts last longer. I also
  4. Thanks for the comments guys! I think the final verdict is that it was the tannic acid in the palm tree. I'm thinking about possibly tapping another one of our palm trees and experimenting with using the sap as an etch. I'll post a picture here soon to show what it looks like.
  5. Yeah I know that mild is bad for blades. I used it to test out a design for a blade before I actually made it from the more expensive high carbon or tool steel I have.
  6. I'm not sure where to post this, but I figured here seeing as it's to do with reactions and such. So the story is, I'd made myself a machete from some mild steel flatbar (not sure what SAE exactly, just from the hardware store) and I was using it while gardening just to see how it worked. I was hacking into a palm tree which had to be removes and the sap/tree juice was staining the metal a weird blue purple colour. This coating would really whipe off and I had to take to the blade with some fine grit paper to remove it. Does anyone know what's going on here? Is something in the tree re
  7. Thanks for the advice. I use a Rhiobi Bench sander grinder combo, and I've been using the top wheel the get the curve ground down.
  8. Looks pretty cool. I'm looking at building one myself
  9. I use a cheap inflatable bed inflator. So I may be giving it a bit too much, though I plan to add a throttle to the motor speed.
  10. As the title suggests, I need advice on how to grind the bevel into a recurve style blade. Any tips or tricks?
  11. So, I currently run a charcoal side blast forge. I basically filled it with clay and then the actual firebox has a cob lining made of refined earth clay, grass clippings, grob and a small amount of lime to act as a plasticizer (less water required to make the mixture wet). I get very good heat from it, some would say a little too good, So much so that the clay actually melts. like not little particles and clinkers but actual viscous, honey like liquid slag at the bottom of my forge. This doesn't overly affect the forging too much, as the tuyere is above the slag, but I don't like having
  12. So the thought came from hearing about how glassworkers would sit their work in fiberglass insulation or something like that to slow down the cooling process to prevent the work from cracking from uneven cooling. I don't know how true this is but that's how I had the idea to use kaowool. I think I'll just make a wood ash and lime powder bend to anneal my work pieces in.
  13. At the moment I use a bucket of clay, but I also have powdered lime so I might use that.
  14. So my question is, if I were to heat a piece of steel to a glowing yellow and then stick it in kaowool so that the whole piece is covered, would that slow down the cooling enough for the steel to be properly annealed?
×
×
  • Create New...