Jump to content
I Forge Iron

White Nomad

Members
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About White Nomad

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia, Brisbane
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, machining, programming and playing video games

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for the advice. I think I'll find two steel plates and fix them a set distance apart and use that as my drifting station, persay.
  2. So I recently got a new anvil. Nothing special, just a $80-90 10Kg anvil. I also bought myself some hexagonal high carbon steel with a diameter of around 3-4, maybe 5cm. I had no trouble punching the hole and widening it a bit, but my hardy hole is too small for me to effectively drift the eye to a good size. Has anyone made a specific punching and drifting anvil or jig that they use for punching eye holes, or know how I could find a way to drift my eye? Thanks for the help.
  3. Yeah fair point. I might experiment around with this idea this weekend. If I find anything interesting I'll post it on here somewhere
  4. Yes, I understand what case hardening is. The method I was modifying is the one ClickSpring used in his file making video on youtube. The idea is that will industrial steel production is that the alloy metals are added to the molten steel and mixed around, thus causing the other metals to join into the crystal structure of the final steel billet. My idea is to seal a bar of iron in a container that won't allow for the alloy metals to run out and away from the iron, and the lightly melt the surface of the iron, causing only the outer layer of iron to alloy, as it's in a semi liquid state. Would
  5. Ok, so most of you would be familiar with the process of case hardening mild steel/iron to form high carbon steel. I had a thought (and we all know how dangerous that is) to use the case hardening technique to adjust the levels of alloying elements in steel. So here's my rough outline of the process that I'm thinking of: 1) Let a piece of steel (any kind, preferably scrap. would be easiest in bar form) sit in a normal camp fire for a good few hours, possibly repeat the process multiple times. I've found that when I have done that, a lot of scale is formed on the surface which when chipp
  6. So I live in Queensland, Australia, and I'm wondering what sort of formal blacksmithing qualifications there are and where I can find them, both links to website and places. If you know of any, please do share. Thanks for your time - White Nomad
  7. I think that I'm going to go with the propane furnace, just because I feel like I'd be able to get more heat from it, and I could also use it to heat hammer blanks as well.
  8. The cheapest option would be to, as you said, add some more firebricks to the bottom to decrease the internal volume of the forge. But as it is, it would be ok to use for small objects to practice hammer technique and learning to control the workpiece
  9. If I were to do this process in a crusible, like one in a propane or induction furnace, would I use borax or lime (I have both)?
  10. I have researched bloomeries and have made a few of my own and use them at the moment to make my iron. My train of thought was that as long is there is available carbon and enough heat, the ore should reduce down, with the heat from the metal melting the slag. Would this be correct? I've also been reading a lot of research documents to do with the use of induction furnaces and different Direct Reduction Iron (DRI) processes. Also I'm unaware of what oroshigane is, but thanks for the reply.
  11. So I'm about to make a purchase and buy my first furnace for casting, and I don't know whether to buy a propane or induction furnace. Ignoring the cost of running and purchasing either, what are the pros and cons of each? Also, would I be able to smelt or make in iron bloom in either of them? I saw a Cody's Lab video where he makes a bloom in his induction furnace and I'm wondering about how realistic that would be and how well that would work. What do you guys think would be the best option to buy, for both casting and also smelting down ores into usable metals? Thanks in advance!
  12. Will do, and I'll experiment with different combinations of clays and ash mixtures and let you guys know how it goes, probably in a different thread though
  13. I have some zeolite and bentonite as well, would that be any good?
×
×
  • Create New...