Bob S

Thanks for sticking your neck out. I agree and wouldn't miss this thread. Bob

One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread is liability. You may be opening yourself up to a lawsuit if someone gets hurt with a point you sharpened. Might be worth talking to a lawyer. Bob

Looks like you had fun with that set Clinton. Good work. Bob

For forging purposes I would assume it's all 'bad'. Steel has gotten more expensive in recent years but it's still relatively cheap. Try welding/machine shops for forgeable scrap. Bob

I like this guard. I got the pics from the forgemagic site. Originally posted by Tio Pick. Bob

I never have been able to figure out why they call them EZ outs. Bob

I like this guard. I got the pics from the forgemagic site. Originally posted by Tio Pick. Bob

in Iowa they call these 'coleslaw' anvils. Bob

Best wishes for Ed and his wife. Bob

Looks like a nice job. It should draw well now. Lets see a picture with some fire. It also looks like plenty of room to heat your lunch burrito on top. Bob

make two stands. or a 15" spacer. Bob

oops

They look like they haven't been used in a while but I didn't notice any broken parts. I did wonder about the spring in the last picture. It is adjusted waay in. I usually adjust mine (25lb) so the adjustment screw just starts compressing the spring...and then I back off a hair. I got to wondering today if that adjustment is correct and if anyone adjusts the spring one way for a particular reason and another way for another reason. Anyone know? Looking again I wonder if the spring in the last picture is the correct spring? Bob

In my world a good, 'bench ready'' vise is worth $2 per pound and up. A 4" vise is usually around 50lbs and a 6" usually weighs around 100lbs. By 'bench ready' I mean that all parts are there and fit and work together and it can be put up and used without further ado. This is cheap in todays dollars. Cheers.

I would buy a set of dovetail adaptors from Sid. They fit into the top and bottom dovetail and then stay there. Make your own dies easily with matching edges, radius/ etc.

If it was me I would take it all to my local welding supply and have them sort out what you need. Hose is cheap. You're going to have to go to them for your gas anyway. Bob

possibly used with a handle like this?

I'm not sure being a physics major will change anything. We all work under the same rules. B

that's one gnarley looking 'die' but hey it seems to work fine. That's something I like about working hot metal... the tools can be.... well... 'gnarley' and work just fine. I like the 'deformed' wiggle best. the opener is cool too. Bob

You need to get out more.

I have ordered fro Larry a couple of times. I like being able to order from someone who understands what I am doing. I don't think I ever paid much attention to how long it took but orders came in a reasonable time. It's easy to get impatient in todays world.

It's not too late to alter your project. My suggestion would be to cut out your whole grate. Then make a half sphere that will fit in the place of the grate. Drill a hole in the top of the half sphere for your air, then weld into place with the dome and air hole up. This way the clinker can flow down below the air hole and accumulate there without plugging up the fire. Clinker can be removed like a donut.

But why bother with the half round and V shapes at all. What are they for in todays shop? I guess they used to be used with corresponding top tools. How many of us are swaging 1-1/2" bars down to 1"? Most of the top and bottom tool work in my shop is done by several 'guillotine' type, anvil mounted, top and bottom tools. The Saltfork blocks referenced earlier here look like decent blocks for a fair price but their main usefulness (to me) would be the bowl, spoon and shovel depressions. If necessary half round swages can be improvised with pieces of pipe.

me too. You can buy shiney knives at Kmart. You might like this site. http://primitivepoint.blogspot.com/

nice job of fitting and welding. But with your air inlet all the way on the bottom and with no clinker breaker you are going to spend a lot of time working on keeping your fire breathing. I see you can buy a cast iron pot with clinker breaker for $259.95 here http://www.centaurfo...nfo/CENTVULCAN/ That said I remember a few articles years ago in the Abana magazine that suggested a raised air inlet with space around it that clinker could flow down and keep from plugging up the air. I also remember reading that clinker will stick to a steel pot more readily than cast.