Bob S

no pictures please. Thank you.

I guess you *could* do that. Or you could save yourself some wear and tear and make individual swages, as needed, out of appropriately sized material. Then weld a shank on that fits your hardy hole. If you decide on mike-hr's plan I hope you take lots of pictures. Preferably video.

Best explanation I've ever heard.

you're welcome. More pretty good stuff on locks here... http://www.anvilfire...s/top_index.htm

called a 'lever lock'. http://en.wikipedia....er_tumbler_lock

this anchor shows wrought iron fibers.

there is a good picture sequence here of replacing (pouring) new babbit bearings and also putting on new clutch material. No doubt you could get the right stuff from Sid at Little Giant. http://www.anvilmag....smith/011f2.htm

I have heard this for years and I'm not disputing it now but I never have been able to understand what kind of 'test' it is to put a gouge in the side of a relatively 'soft' anvil. Anvils must have cost just as much in relative dollars then as they do now and I sure wouldn't intentionally gouge my anvil. Didn't they have a bit of scrap around to 'test' their chisel? Doesn't make sense to me.

If things are so tight that $4 is a leap for you I would advise passing on this die. It will most likely be a paperweight at best. Best of luck.

it's unlikely that the die is any good, even if you did need it. But if the die is in a handle and the handle will hold common diameter dies... like 1-1/2", the handle may be worth the $4 so that when you buy dies (as needed) you will already own a handle. http://www.mcmaster....ng-dies/=9dnx1e

....but go ahead and use them. Keep your workpiece hot hot hot and they will hold up for a while. Make the next set out of something tougher. No problem.

doesn't suck that much. doesn't suck at all. nice.

Thanks for all the replies and the offer to send me some damming compound. Much appreciated. I think I'll go ahead and use plumbers putty. I am repouring the top part of the main bearings on a LG 25. I'll try to take a few pics. Thanks again. Bob

I have a couple of bearings to pour. I have the babbit but need something to dam up the small cracks on the ends. I know they (Sid) sell a special damming compound but I don't want to buy a 26$ can for such a small job. What else (that I might have) would work? So far I am thinking plumbers putty. Thanks. Bob

well said.

Is this 'modern masters segment' available? Bob Great pictures BTW. Very nice.

Beautiful work. Very nice clean shop. Thumbs way up.

Lots of talk about cut off hardies here and all over this (and other) sites. I made a couple of hardies years ago. One with a straight side the other without. I made another when I got another anvil. Question is, what are you guys cutting off? I go for long periods without using a cutoff hardy. I have a saw. If you cut off a bar with a hardy you end up with an end that eventually needs to be cleaned up... maybe two ends to clean up. If I want a slit I do it with a top tool on the anvil or treadle hammer. So unless you are making nails, I'm curious.... what you cutting off with all those hardies? Bob

Robert, I'm guessing that you're doing this (blacksmithing), more or less for 'fun'. If so, what's your hurry? If it takes a little more of less *forging* (not "smacking the crap out of it"),whats the hurry? The time spent forging, actually forging, is what it's all about. Enjoy it. Bob this is a small cutoff hardy I made from a 'jackhammer point' a few years ago. The shaft is 1" square.

don't waste your time. It's junk. Bob

You can get used up moil points (jackhammer points) just about anywhere. Check out your local tool rental store if they rent jackhammers or talk to road/cement contractors in your area. Most moil points are made of 1045 or similar and are great steel to make hardy tools or just about any blacksmith tool. Bob

I can see why it would be hard to part with. Neat looking hammer. Bob ps. Thanks Wesley for re-sizing the pictures.

I have used chainsaw bar oil but would NEVER USE IT AGAIN. I am in the process of cleaning 20 years worth of congealed bar oil from my 25 lb LG. It got to the point as Clinton says above that it "got all gummed up and just ran sluggish". When I get it put back together I will use a light motor oil (or maybe ATF as Clifton said) and wipe the hammer down every week. The mix of congealed bar oil and scale has to be scraped off. It will not yield to ordinary solvents. Bob ps. Whatever you use I think (looking back on it) that wiping the machine down on a regular basis is key.

try these guys. It's a pretty active group in the twin cities area. They may know if anyone is close to Eau Claire. http://www.metalsmith.org/

Ask these guys. http://www.practical...th-bend-lathes/