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About Rhyfelwr

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    Junior Member

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    Rhyme Casa
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  • Gender
  • Location
    Chattanooga Tennessee, USA


  • Location
    Fayetteville, Tennessee
  • Biography
    I am a Christian first and foremost, I Street Preach when and where God tells me too.
  • Interests
    Basically the list of "Occupations", because I usually find a way to make it one.
  • Occupation
    Street Preacher/Blacksmith/Electrician/General Contractor/Computer g33k

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  1. It looks like heat cracking to me, my experience with after quench cracks tend to be almost clean snaps. But then I like simple steels. And I never adjust after a quench, when it comes out warped I re-heat and re-quench. Then I look at why it warped, too thin, heat uneven etc.
  2. Rhyfelwr

    Rusty hammer build along

    Looks great, thanks for taking the time to document the process. I've planned for several years to build a similar setup, just working on getting the space in my shop.
  3. Rhyfelwr

    Civil War short sword

    Looks great!
  4. Rhyfelwr

    traditional Nepalese blacksmiths and forges.

    I was thinking something similar.
  5. I came late to this discussion.. I don't do hourly, sometimes I think back over what I've made and figure it by the hour but I do not price jobs hourly. My full time job is as a Carpenter, I build houses and decks and work for myself. I try to never make less than $200-250 a day. And unless there is some deadline I don't work more than 8 hours a day 5 days a week. When I bid a job the client is required to pay for materials and I receive pay either on draws, or when the job is done depending on the size of the job. And the same goes for my blacksmithing business. No less than $200 a day, not counting materials, sometimes it will be many times $200 in a day. Also if there are any tools needed that will be semi expendable I just price them into the quote. So in summary: Shop rate: >$200/day + Materials. Semi-Pro.. (not quite a hobby, not quite my living) No overhead, except a little electricity. Maybe a few belts and wheels.. But hey, add them onto a job! My shop is next to my house. I've also learned not to be scared of pricing to high, I noticed people like to pay more for less. I think its because they wonder whats wrong with it if you are cheap.
  6. Rhyfelwr

    Etching demascus

    Anybody actually use the tannic acid? I've got two quarts of distilled oak tannins, I might try it.
  7. Rhyfelwr

    What am I making?

    It looks like a blade preform for sure. It still looks plenty thick enough to forge the bevels in. Question though, what type of handle/guard are you going for?
  8. Rhyfelwr

    Using both hands

    I like making axes, eventually I may build a power hammer just to save time. As of right now I use a 6# straight pein hammer with my right hand or my younger brother strikes for me with the short handled 8# sledge. Side note, where are you from Kevin? My name is Ben House and I'm originally from Alabama, now in Tennessee.
  9. Well I figure the guilty dog barks the loudest as a buddy of mine once said.
  10. Well there are still rude people here I reckon. I would dress the edges of the mushroomed head as best I could. I'd take the handle off the head and weld the inside and outside of the crack. Then dress the welds. I'd also fill the chunk thats missing in with the welder. Then re-hang the head. I have an older axe sitting in the corner that a buddy of mine welded a while back it had a crack up one side of the eye and I re-hung it on and new handle and it has been used ever since.
  11. Rhyfelwr

    11" Gyuto

    Nice save! Looks excellent!
  12. Rhyfelwr

    Forge weld flux

    I use 20 Mule Team Borax as well. But I have been practicing my fluxless welding.. I kind of got interested in it from watching TechnicusJoe on youtube.
  13. Rhyfelwr

    silver steel, integral bolster chef knife

    Beautiful knife!
  14. Rhyfelwr

    5160 Skinner

    That looks very functional, and it looks like you forged your bevels in nicely. Suggestions, I'd make the transition from the handle to the blade somewhat steeper to help stop the hand from sliding onto the blade. Also I usually try and keep my pins around 3/8" from the ends of the handle scales to help prevent the scales from splitting. I made several knives with the handle tapered towards the butt, and what I found was if it was a chopper or a slicing knife I tended to keep needing to readjust my grip; so I began making the pommel area wider or at least the same size as the guard area on my bigger knives. Keep making 'em!
  15. Rhyfelwr

    Two recent blades

    Questions, What kind of steel? What heat treat? What kind of wood on the handle? Pins? Other than that they look like a kindling splitters, or a camp knives. I like the Bolo style better, it seems more defined. Keep it up!