Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    Rhyme Casa
  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Chattanooga Tennessee, USA
  • Interests
    God, Family, Country, Blacksmithing, Carpentry.


  • Location
    Fayetteville, Tennessee
  • Biography
    I am a Christian first and foremost, I Street Preach when and where God tells me too.
  • Interests
    Basically the list of "Occupations", because I usually find a way to make it one.
  • Occupation
    Street Preacher/Blacksmith/Electrician/General Contractor/Computer g33k

Recent Profile Visitors

6,497 profile views
  1. I smelt and cast rifle and pistol brass into knife guard shapes and then file and grind to finish. .45 brass is my favourite. I usually just put an iron cup on the forge and cram it full of brass shell casings. A pinch or two of borax and heat to liquid, add more shells as needed. I have a guard shaped dimple carved in my concrete floor near the forge for a mould. Sometimes there will be a touch of green smoke, but it goes away quickly. I make sure to not have many contaminates in the brass because once I had water in some that I threw in the pot and the water became steam instantly and the popping wasn't fun..
  2. Hound that blade has some very clean lines. Just about perfect drop also, I never liked Kukuri style blades with to much forward drop. Nice
  3. Some of the 1.75" rod he gave me is pure iron. I told him the blade was shaving sharp, but it probably wouldn't hold up for long under working conditions. The fellow ended up hanging it on the wall in his office. I used some of the iron to forge a camp axe head with a file steel bit. It was interesting, I don't forge much true iron, kinda hard to get nowadays.
  4. I use brass rod, or #6 copper ground wire..The copper makes an excellent handle rivet, it upsets easily and files and grinds well. And its strong enough for almost any handle, if it is counter-sunk properly and snug. Once you are done peening the head out, you can file or grind it flush.
  5. This is one of my most recent commissions, the blade is forged from a piece of water tower. The client wanted this knife made from the steel even after I advised him that it was medium carbon. It was a retirement gift for a friend in the waterworks. I also built a wooden plaque that it hangs on with the water tower wood-burnt into it (he provided a picture). Blade is medium carbon, guard and butt-cap are the same. They are blued and I used Cherry for the handle.
  6. Beautiful work, I love the shape of the blade. Here lately the trend has been to make the forward curve to strong and you've made this just right.
  7. My boys run off with them.
  8. I have made several arrowheads, broad heads and field points. I forge them with a socket. Then I drill the end of a socket and put a pin in it. The process goes something like this: I use 3/8" rod stock, I begin forging out the skirt and when it gets a bit flat and belled out I switch to a straight peen hammer. The goal is to thin and spread the metal on the outer edge more than at the neck. Man I should just film a demo. This is hard to explain. Once you have the skirt spread out to .... I'm gonna post a drawing. Easier. Oh and I use a simple tapered drift to round it out a bit as needed.
  9. Looks good for a first, is it a spike? If it is you may want to try some spring steel for better edge retention and toughness. So the questions, what steel? Heat treat? What wood? Is it glued up or are the pins peened?
  10. I know years ago I considered using a Runic 'H' and then I ran across Helm Forge using it and just decided to go with a simple H. I make my own letter punch so every five or six years it changes slightly due to wear and tear. I just realized that the last post on the original thread was mine, it was 10 years ago this December. Man time flies.
  11. Very nice! Makes me want to go make a new grinder myself.
  • Create New...