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I Forge Iron


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About Rhyfelwr

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    Junior Member

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    Rhyme Casa
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  • Gender
  • Location
    Chattanooga Tennessee, USA
  • Interests
    God, Family, Country, Blacksmithing, Carpentry.


  • Location
    Fayetteville, Tennessee
  • Biography
    I am a Christian first and foremost, I Street Preach when and where God tells me too.
  • Interests
    Basically the list of "Occupations", because I usually find a way to make it one.
  • Occupation
    Street Preacher/Blacksmith/Electrician/General Contractor/Computer g33k

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  1. My boys run off with them.
  2. I have made several arrowheads, broad heads and field points. I forge them with a socket. Then I drill the end of a socket and put a pin in it. The process goes something like this: I use 3/8" rod stock, I begin forging out the skirt and when it gets a bit flat and belled out I switch to a straight peen hammer. The goal is to thin and spread the metal on the outer edge more than at the neck. Man I should just film a demo. This is hard to explain. Once you have the skirt spread out to .... I'm gonna post a drawing. Easier. Oh and I use a simple tapered drift to round it out a bit as needed.
  3. Looks good for a first, is it a spike? If it is you may want to try some spring steel for better edge retention and toughness. So the questions, what steel? Heat treat? What wood? Is it glued up or are the pins peened?
  4. I know years ago I considered using a Runic 'H' and then I ran across Helm Forge using it and just decided to go with a simple H. I make my own letter punch so every five or six years it changes slightly due to wear and tear. I just realized that the last post on the original thread was mine, it was 10 years ago this December. Man time flies.
  5. Very nice! Makes me want to go make a new grinder myself.
  6. I don't know about the bending rather than the snap thing, I've snapped the claws off of a 4' nail pulling bar and if the texture of the break was anything to judge the temper was near perfect and hard as glass or nearly anyway. You sacrifice wear on the claws for toughness. And as for temper colors I straw temper most of my knives, sometimes deep straw. And the choppers hold well and sharpen decently. And the axes that I've made in 1060 and 5160 that I tempered straw chop through cinder block alright, though the 5160 tends to be much more durable.
  7. Have you tried hitting it on something relatively hard? Just to see if it wants to shatter? I know my favourite hammer as of the last ten years or so is a 22oz Estwing, I had a Vaughan California Framer that looked a lot like your hammers. My experience with the Estwing is that they tend to err on the tough side. Meaning that the head deforms over time and the nail pulling end tends to wallow out after a while, but they don't break. Seems like there is a fine line in there. I have a book around here that tells the preferred temper color of a hammer head, just gotta find it.
  8. Looks like a Vaughan style. My day job is as a Carpenter, and one thing I've been thinking of making is some framing hammers. They look good, the main thing with wood handled framing hammers is to have a large eye, thats a weak point. The only thing I see wrong with them is maybe taper the nail pulling side a little more consistently there are big nails and small, if its a gradual taper it'll fit them all. Also I'm curious how you hardened and tempered them, also what steel?
  9. It looks like heat cracking to me, my experience with after quench cracks tend to be almost clean snaps. But then I like simple steels. And I never adjust after a quench, when it comes out warped I re-heat and re-quench. Then I look at why it warped, too thin, heat uneven etc.
  10. Looks great, thanks for taking the time to document the process. I've planned for several years to build a similar setup, just working on getting the space in my shop.
  11. I came late to this discussion.. I don't do hourly, sometimes I think back over what I've made and figure it by the hour but I do not price jobs hourly. My full time job is as a Carpenter, I build houses and decks and work for myself. I try to never make less than $200-250 a day. And unless there is some deadline I don't work more than 8 hours a day 5 days a week. When I bid a job the client is required to pay for materials and I receive pay either on draws, or when the job is done depending on the size of the job. And the same goes for my blacksmithing business. No less than $200 a day, not counting materials, sometimes it will be many times $200 in a day. Also if there are any tools needed that will be semi expendable I just price them into the quote. So in summary: Shop rate: >$200/day + Materials. Semi-Pro.. (not quite a hobby, not quite my living) No overhead, except a little electricity. Maybe a few belts and wheels.. But hey, add them onto a job! My shop is next to my house. I've also learned not to be scared of pricing to high, I noticed people like to pay more for less. I think its because they wonder whats wrong with it if you are cheap.
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