Bob S

down under mate.

ask this guy.... http://www.iforgeiro...er-restoration/

My 25LG has some chips on the dovetail slot but nothing like this one. Mine also is a new style and if worse came to worse the it has a replaceable sow block. Your hammer doesn't look like the bottom die has been out for a loooong time. Will it come out? Not being able to change dies easily limits the usefulness of the machine. It doesn't look like it's been used for a long time. I would have passed on this hammer. Bob

This has come up before (and will again) on this thread and others. I have a hard time imagining what a smiths hand would be doing over the hardy. When I am forging my hand is on the same side of the anvil I am. As I work from one spot to another I move the workpiece. Not my hand. I do remove the hardy after using but not because I'm worried about amputating a finger. Bob

I would run it by the local electric motor shop for an opinion. I lean towards buying a new/used motor. Put a 'wanted' ad on craigslist. Look for a totally enclosed motor to avoid the same problem down the road. Good luck with your new hammer. Bob

If that is true maybe you should be answering instead of asking? Just saying.... Bob

Just because there are smiths who use anvils with two horns, and that there are smiths who use anvils with no horns, doesn't mean that there couldn't be a tradition among the smiths who use anvils with one horn. The 'tradition' (if there was one) would be based on the work habits of those *having* horns on their anvils. If you have two horns (or none) the question would be moot. Bob

oh please... Bob

Happy Birthday!!! Sam.

and then it will always want to point north... Bob

It looks like a purpose made turnbuckle to me. If I needed one I would post the picture over at http://www.practicalmachinist.com There are guys over there just looking for something to do...just like here. Good chance you could make a trade for something from your forge. Bob

$2000 for a ready to run hammer in good shape would be a steal. take a look at this one.... http://cgi.ebay.com/Little-Giant-Trip-Hammer-25-pounds_W0QQitemZ360336115605QQcategoryZ13869QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3911.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D2%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7186335561945904800#ht_1225wt_1141

good looking nails. how about a picture of your header and process. step by step? thanks. Bob

Nice looking machine! Hope you make a lot of money with it. Bob

I would just screw in a bolt to seal up the hole. You should preheat the shaft so that the babbitt won't chill and will flow all around and give you a good bearing. A propane torch would be enuf to preheat the shaft. I recently poured new bearings in a Little giant 25 and did't coat the shaft with soot or anything and didn't have any problem getting stuck. The babbit doesn't have to be perfect to work fine. Also you will have to build a dam around where you don't want the babbit to go. Don't use anything water based or it will spatter. This is a well done babbiting project. Watch it a few times for tips. http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/011f2.htm

Got any pictures of upsetting hardys? I've always found it easier to draw down rather than upset up if you know what I mean. Or welding a collar on if you're not averse to that route. Or starting out with a jackhammer point that has a collar built in. Bob

not sure if I totally understand but if you have access try center punching the broken stud and drilling it out using small drills to start and working up to tap drill size for that stud. then try re-tapping the rest out. at any rate do the least destructive method first and work your way up to thermonuclear devices. bob

want a Kohlswa? all you need is money.... http://compare.ebay....4=263602_309572 btw they call them coleslaw anvils in Iowa.

Looks like a nice hammer. I especially like your spring guard and also the cast? ram guide. If I remember right a 50lb LG weighs about 1600 lbs. Good luck with the move. Go slow. Be safe. Bob

these are dovetail adaptors? I got from Sid at Little Giant. The dovetail stays in the hammer and your dies bolt to them with 2 bolts. shown are flat dies in the hammer and drawing dies. I make dies out of A36. these are 2"x3".

Best wishes on the project Curly George. That said I guess I don't 'get' the infatuation with wrought iron that many seem to have. I guess they don't make it anymore so it must be good? I've tried a few pieces and it just frayed and split. I often see threads here that someone has 'discovered' a cache of wrought iron and some get wound up about how to save it, how to sell it, etc. Then everyone gets some and.... what? I know I know you have to work it hothothot. But if you get A36 or 1018 hothothot they will forge pretty easy too. I have heard some save it for a special project that could only be done with WI but don't recall seeing any pictures. A few years ago someone tried selling a WI comparable called 'pure iron'. Wasn't long before they disappeared. No market? Sorry to be a wet blanket (well not that sorry) but I'll take A36 or 1018 anytime. ps. had fun with the COLOR.

I understand moving the powerhammer content but think it would be less confusing to wait until this thread has gone 'quiet'. Just seems less confusing. jmo Bob

Oh. So the anvil itself isn't crushed? Bob

seems like they are already as crushed as they are ever going to be. Bob

How do you crush an anvil? Bob