Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

If you start cleaning it on the opposite side from the first picture, you may see some markings (paint hides a lot of them). A lot of anvils are marked on that side. Also clean the foot under the horn to see if there is a serial number or other markings. I would say that you have an excellent anvil if the ring & rebound is good.

My wife is into kayaking and we needed a place to store it while she wasn't using it that was out of the way but easy to get to. I came up with a rope & pulley system with an inexpensive boat trailer hand crank winch. Mounted the winch to a post in the carport and the pulleys to the roof on a 2X4. Straps around the bow & stern then crank it up out of the way, takes less than 5min to deploy.

Stir it...a lot.

I'll ring the anvil three times for the interview to go well.

Without pictures it didn't happen. When it's finished please post it in the knives section.

Looks like an anvil to me. Of course when I have a hammer in my hand everything looks like an anvil or nail.

Whats always worked for me is to put the steel in the oven for the required time & temperature and not over think it.

I've found out the older I get the more I enlist mechanical advantage for heavy lifting, ropes & pulleys, chain hoist etc. My only neighbor is so paranoid he hides every time he sees me and he's a quarter mile away.

Welcome Sniper76... have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST Like Thomas said knowing your location will go a long way in helping the ID, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it. I think Thomas is right it looks like a Trenton logo made by Fisher in Trenton NJ and 50 pounds to me.

So do my wife & I. She also gets knives, Samurai swords and other martial arts weaponry. The guys at my department always kidded me that if I made her mad I'd look like a pin cushion. One year she got a Samurai helmet scary to say the least. Last Christmas we sprung for a KMG 2X72 belt grinder joint present.

More forges = more fun. We have three working forges a permanent bottom blast coal/charcoal forge, a portable bottom blast pack forge coal/charcoal and a propane forge. I am in the process of building a side blast charcoal/coal forge (really need to get at it) all that's left is to clay the firepot & table. I like coal and my wife likes propane but has been learning to get dirty with coal. She learned to build and maintain the coal fire amazingly fast.

That is just amazing. How long did it take you to make it? Это просто потрясающе. Сколько времени вам понадобилось, чтобы сделать это?

Welcome to IFI...have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST Value would depend upon where in the world you are located, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it. Another factor on value is if it's restorable or not. Pictures of the blower & gears would help. That large hole in the cast iron table is a problem. There were many companies making that style forge back in the day.

I read somewhere here that rheostats only work with motors that have replaceable brushes, so if the hair dryer you have has brushes the rheostat should work. I have one on my single speed Dremel that has been working for years. Looking at the picture (blown up) of your hair dryer, I don't think it has brushes.

That is looking very good and seems to work well. I have 2 suggestions though. You need to find a way to control the air flow to conserve fuel and prevent burning the steel. One way would be make a sliding valve between the blower and pipe. The other would be to move the blower away from the pipe so it can be rotated to blow off center to it. The other suggestion is to cut notches in the sides so long stock can be placed in the fire at the right angle. Don't know if you have seen this thread but it does a good job of explaining what I'm trying to say. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/30887-forges-and-fires/

I muted the annoying music.

Welcome... Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST I don't have any experience with the Devil forge, but it's normal for the paint to burn off the outer shell and small cracks to appear in the ridigizer in most forges.

Welcome to IFI... Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST If you edit your profile to show your location you never know there may be some members near you that could help. I doubt you will get an answer from the OP since they haven't been on the forum in a couple of years. Most pictures were lost on the old threads when there was an update to the site. Maybe tell us what you have tried so far beside staring at it. Most blowers don't require disassembly to get them working. Have you checked the fan area for things like muddobber & mouse nests? Have you soaked it in a good crud cutter like Kroil, PB Blaster or a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid & acetone? I've even taken them to a car wash & pressure cleaned them then oiled well. If you could post some pictures (resized) so we can see what you are dealing with that would help.

I remember my folks talking about that with my grandfather. They were saying a truck came by and there were hundreds of anvils on it during WWII and they gave every piece of steel they had like a complete lawn furniture set that they wished they still had and a lot of cast iron cook ware. sigh

Your trailer build is a sticky in Building, Designing a Shop. Great thread and an inspiration to anyone contemplating a build.

Looks like your mixture was too wet. I would just mix some more clay with sand and make it stiff then put that over the top of what you have. It should be stiff enough you have to ram it in with a mallet or board. BTW... Welcome to IFI have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST

I would TIG weld it.

As far as which forge will consume more fuel when forging a knife, I use less coal than propane. However I have a hand cranked blower so when I'm at the anvil the forge is not using much fuel when the blower is not supplying air. My propane forge runs at full blast when at the anvil using more fuel than needed, unless I reduce the pressure to conserve fuel but that is an aggravation to me. When forging blades, I use coal then switch to propane for heat treating. Does that make any sense? For most general forging I use coal but my wife prefers propane so for us it's an individual choice. That's why I say you really need both.

That's an interesting anvil hardy, tell us more. The anvil hold down looks very nice too.

They make nice yard ornaments too. I picked this up when I was first starting out in the 80s. If I remember right it cost $8.00 now resides in my wife's garden. Rings like a bell and the horn is forged .