Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

That way the magnet doesn't touch the steel, if it's drawn to the steel it's not hot enough.

One of the things I find useful making scabbards is a stitching pony and leather that's been dampened.

I doubt he will see this due to not being on the forum since 2013. You might try sending a PM to him, he may get a message about it. BTW welcome to IFI, if you edit your profile to show you location we will know where in the world you are. This thread will be a big help in getting the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST

I don't have any experience with it but it does look like a good knife making anvil. Too bad they don't have it in about the 120 pound range.

I would say right here, just send Glenn a PM with your order.https://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/254-gas-forge-refractories-and-supplies/

I think you have a pretty good grasp on things bertie. BTW welcome to IFI from this side of the pond.

Yes you want the wool for insulation and refractory for toughness. You can obtain the supplies here.https://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/254-gas-forge-refractories-and-supplies/

Hi J Leon, welcome to IFI... I noticed your posts have been edited by a Mod for double spacing, which is discouraged here. I suggest you read this and the TOS. READ THIS FIRST There are some very good You Tube videos out there but suggesting that all are worthy of following is poor advice. There are quite a few that are down right dangerous and one thing we stress is safety. BTW Where in the world are you located?

That would require knowing where in the world you are located. Did you read this? READ THIS FIRST

Seeing as I'm a guy that follows the path of least resistance, that's what I would do. Bolt the tire hammer down with a double layer of stall mat beneath it and have a go. If it shakes stuff off the benches then cut a hole and start digging. You're not out much labor by trying it first.

Welcome to IFI Sylvain... have you read this? READ THIS FIRST - Who do you have questions of? You might want to send them a PM.

My wife & I were sitting on the deck at sunrise this morning when she glanced over at the smithy. She captured this picture with her phone and within seconds it was gone.

Hi John, If you remember how BigBlu 155 is mounted at ESSA, it sits on a one inch thick stall mat. When the building was built either the architect or contractor messed up and put the isolation pad in the wrong place for it, at the other end of the building away from the forges. The floor where it sits now is the standard 4 inches thick and Blu is bolted down with anchor's. After using a while the floor started to crack around the hammer and a square around Blu was cut with a concrete saw to isolate it and make it free floating. It's been working fine since then no more cracking. Randy

That took on a life of it's own.

I think the stake is long enough to hold fine. Drill the hole a little undersized and drive the stake in for a tight fit. I wouldn't chisel it square the stake will take care of that and hold tighter. Another way to mount it would be to put a plate (like a Pexto plate) on the stump with the hole cut to fit the base of the stake.

I see that it's been moved from General Blacksmithing to Knife Making, probably a better section to get good answers. As far as forging temp that's listed in the data sheet. Forging ( Hot forming temperature: 1050-850oC.) don't know what else you need. BTW, if you edit your profile to show location, we won't have to ask you for it when the answers need to know where in the world you are located.

I can tell you that this is posted in the wrong section and will probably be moved. Have you read this? READ THIS FIRST

Yep, we love pictures, and to get the best out of the forum... READ THIS FIRST

Most of them that I've seen are black. No telling how many times someone has painted theirs though or what color. BTW... Welcome to IFI Timmy. Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST It will help you get the best out of the forum.

Here is a hammer & hardy that I made for texturing. Works well for a wood grain look.

I don't think a pellet gun will leave those marks on the side's, not doubting it was used as a target though. More likely who ever was using it, tested the sharpness of punches & chisels that were made using the anvil. At $300 U.S. you did well on the price of $2.22 a pound as long as the ring & rebound are good. I think your anvil is a Hay Budden made in Brooklyn NY. If so the serial number A414 is dated in Anvils of America to 1918. If it's a Hay Budden or Trenton you have a very good anvil and I hope you have read about not doing any grinding, milling or welding on the hardened face..

There is a thread, Show me your anvil stands. There are plenty of examples of banding there. You will want to start around page 12 or 13 for the pictures, sadly earlier pictures were lost during a forum upgrade.

What's being suggested, is to edit your profile to show where in the world you are located. READ THIS FIRST

I went to the thread you posted when you got the forge. From the picture it looks plenty hot enough to forge weld in. I suggest trying again and letting the steel in the forge a little longer to see if it will get to what I call high yellow (almost sparkling) then just tap the weld to set it. Then back into the fire for a second heat and more hammering.

When my boys were little, my mother told me insanity was contagious, you catch it from the kids.