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I Forge Iron

Bmallen77

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About Bmallen77

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ramona, California
  • Interests
    Metal work, country music

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  1. Good luck to you sir. I apologize again.
  2. I am an idiot and definitely made a mistake John b please feel free to kick me in the xxxxxx if you ever meet me . Just realized what he is saying and you are saying about the chuck.
  3. Thanks for the advice from all of you. Mr. John b I also appreciate your advice and I mean this very respectfully as I'm sure you have a lot more knowledge of fly presses and blacksmithing than I do. But I have worked in ornamental shops the last ten years of my life, and now have owned my own shop for almost 2 years now doing architectural ironwork and fabrication. I also worked for a very well know smith here in California. All of the shops have had fly presses and were used often. I personally have bent thousands of feet of bar with a fly press, slit and drifted literally hundreds of
  4. Great idea I appreciate that. Do you think bringing the screw to a machinist and seeing if he could add another 1" of threads is a bad idea?
  5. Yes at maximum height there is 4" of distance from the bottom of the screw to the top of the baseplate. When the stop is all the way bottomed out on the threads there is 1" of gap between the 1" pin mounted on the 3/4" shank and the 1" pin fastened to the baseplate. If I raise the stop obviously I can bend smaller material than 1" but with no way of setting the accuracy.
  6. Recently got a total score on a fly press for only $50. Brought it back to my shop cleaned it up oiled everything up and built a stand for it and got it anchored in the concrete. Started building some tools for it and realized that I have an issue I can't figure out how to solve. i was making some pins for bending material out of 1" stock and went to set the stop on the screw so I could get a consistent bends for multiple pieces of material and realized that the threads for the screw do not go down far enough to set a stop for any material less than 1" thick. The only solutions I can see
  7. Thanks for the advice. I used this anvil all day yesterday and I really like it. Really stout and like I said not nearly as Loud as my other anvil. It's so cool to take a tool over a 100 years old and put it to use on a daily basis. Makes me wonder about all the other people who have spent time using this anvil. Anyone know where I can find some more history in southern crescent??
  8. Thank you. That was easy. I can't find much on their history. Rebounds well. Needs a little work on the face but not bad. It's quieter than my other anvil as well not as much of a high pitch ring.
  9. Does anyone know what type of anvil this is? It's 150 lbs.
  10. I definitely will tie the two posts together with something, I need to check my scrap and figure out what I can come up with. Thanks for all the advice. It's absolutely worth making some adjustments to ensure a great final product. Concrete and rebar are both cheap and worth the insurance.
  11. I appreciate all the replies and advice. The gate and side panels are made of 1" solid square bar for the frames and the inner sections of the gate are filled with 3/8"X1" flatbar. There is also some additional weight in copper paneling.In addition to the copper paneling in the side panels, all four open panels of the gate will have copper as well. I added a picture of the unfinished gate so u can get an idea of the weight and distribution of weight. from the specs I have found on the post, structurally the 2"x3"-1/4" wall thickness tube is plenty adequate to support up to 1000lbs with ha
  12. Gotta gate I'm getting real close to hanging and I am really struggling with whether I have chose the correct posts to mount to, and whether my concrete hole to support the post will be deep enough. I have tried a few post calculators online but can't find enough information to feel confident in my posts. The gate is 8' tall, 4' wide, and weighs almost 300 lbs. the post I chose to hang the gate on is a 2"x3" structural tube post with a 1/4" wall thickness. On the other side of the post is a 13" wide side panel also 8' tall that is welded to the same post. That panel additionally weighs
  13. Well I hope I didn't come off sounding like guys who forge and build things for fun, "do it yourselfers" I call them are not skilled or don't do quality work. That's far from true And not what I believe at all. I have met a number of hobby blacksmith/fabricators who are more skilled or creative than myself, I think to be a skilled professional builder it takes the combination of always pushing for accuracy and quality overall (you need to be somewhat of a perfectionist) but you still have to know your time constraints and realize it's a buisness as much as it is a passion and needs to be profi
  14. I really like the handrail. Very clean work. Was that 1" solid for the picket? How much did that rail end up weighing?? Sorry just saw its 5/8" bar looks bigger in the picture.
  15. similarly to the knife and sword making I have noticed the furniture market is in a similar way. I had a few carpenters I was constantly building table bases for. Through those guys I started building them for a couple interior designers, that was more than 50 percent of my income building table bases and tables. In the past year and a half that business has all but dried up. I still have the original carpenters I did work for cause they, as tradesman, they understand quality precision work. They are willing to pay a little more for quality and loyalty. But interior desigers, a lot of contr
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