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I Forge Iron


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    Northern Germany

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  1. Glad to hear, and good to know - thx for the warning! I am trying to wrap my head around your suggestions. I seem to hit to limits of my foreign language aptitude though... Starting with this: 1) What is NS and EW? 2) Basically they already are tubes within a tube. Do you mean I should let the outer tubes hit the ground, instead of the wheels, and dispense with the screws? If so, I´d probably still need a jack to lift the table, unless I get you wrong. 3) If supporting the inner tubes via bolts through the outer tubes: I do not think even my supplier can drill precise enough to get them exactly level on all 4 legs. That means, the table would wobble without screws to adjust for tiny height differences to the ground. Even if they were level, as soon as the ground is not I´d need the screws again, or another means to equal out the air space beneath the feet. If feel like I´m not getting something here, sorry about that :/ Maybe. I have an idea that seems to get close. Will read it another few times later. First: You are suggesting a way to make the table foldable, are you? And I´d end up with the table top pretty much hovering above the ground?
  2. Frosty, I asked for advise and criticism and am thankful that you took the time for that - it´s alright. I am sorry the pictures are so hard to read. They have been photographed from the same interface I use to work on them...although I can rotate and zoom. I have no clue how to transform that into blueprints.. It´s been a while since I had to think of that. Indeed I didn´t here. Well, let´s just say I´ll keep welding down as soon as anyone else might be affected. Exactly, the cleanup is nasty. Plus, things I weld are usually small, like single screws or the like. At least for now. If the first tack weld doesn´t take, the brushing around it will usually break the wee weld...flux core is clearly more useful for larger stock. The blue box? Nah, that´s just the outline of my welder. Wanted to see how it fits. The hydraulic presses are not shown, I had bottle jacks in mind (the 2t variant). The site is German, but perhaps you know these things. I´ve never seen one before and only began searching for that because the dude in the video used them to lift the table. I am not aware of any legal issues here, they seem like typical home-tools for guys that like to change tires themselves? I will have another look at the scissors jacks. I assume, you mean a things like these? They seemed like a nice solution to the same problem, only much slower and bulkier in action. But..I don´t know either of them personally "Expanders"- I just did not know what to call them I can see your point here. It is a complex structure, and each connection that I do not want to weld so I can disassemble it all into carriable parts leave wiggle room that concerns me a bit. This would be especially true for the helpers/"Expanders". In defense of the telescopic system: Since the telescoping parts can simply be pulled out of the tubes under the table, cleaning is made easy. There remains a 2 mm gap between the larger tubes (50x50x4mm) and the smaller ones (40x40x3). That gap distributes to both sides, so, if the inner tube were centered, 1mm space to each side inside the telescoping tubes. All tubes have an inside welding seam, which reduces wiggle room a bit. The vendor tested it, they can still be telescoped though. That said, I will try to down-engineer the bearings without sacrificing modularity... that will take some time. Got me. I have probably underestimated that also. Not yet a reason though to abandon a quality workbench that can serve as welding table. 6mm, 1/4''. I figured if I chose it much thicker it´d become uncarriable. The larger top plate segment is in it´s current state 29x23'' (74x59 cm) - not too large. That´s another reason I planned 2 segments - to cut down on individual weight. Choosing one in Alu was also more of a weight consideration. I have no clue how heavy that layout would be in the end, just figured it´d be plenty for an ambitioned hobbyist. I´ll learn about the weight when I assemble the shopping list for steel tubing. What´d you say? Still forgo the aluminum for a main plate due to reasons of practicability? That´s the plan. This would be the leg segment - one for each side. Only the green parts are welded. They grey bars on the bottom have to slide, but are welded to each other. Regardless of any changes I might still make to down-engineer it, the crossbars and bearings on the top would be another segment - simply slid onto the legs and rested on a bolt Alright. I´ll ponder some changes now Thanks so far guys!
  3. Glenn, you helped me realize the space to clamp things was limited. I rectified that now and added corner plates to be welded onto the main plates. They are large enough to hold the rotary table for my vise (blue).
  4. Hello Glenn, thank your kindly for the tips! I never would have thought about arcs in the sliding sections until it were too late. Also, I like the circuit breakers. German wall sockets are all secured with rather sensitive breakers, but meh..why not double on it. Adds a factor of curiosity to the build I never ever do any grinding, welding or cutting without my trusty mask. Never have. Thus, if the smoke takes a minute to clear the apartement, I´m fine with it. So far I´ve only tried self-shielded FCAW, to forgo the gas bottles and cut down in expenses. I plan to move on to TIG, that seems to be a lot cleaner overall. Debris? Just like my every-other-day-wiping the floor. Should be setup in a suitable corner, sure. But it´s true. Larger welding operations and using an angle grinder for whatever are impractical and usually impolite in apartments. Now I can rely on a basement to do that. Later...I´ll see. I am building for the future here, since I do not plan on staying where I am. And I need a workbench for all things one can with no trouble do in living spaces anyway. Once I have a proper, own garage or workshop, I will move all the projects there and only require one work table. So why not build it up to the task right away? Another note on the table: In the second-to last pic, the bottom view, there are bolts securing the long top bars of the main frame into their sockets. Without these, one could easily pull the leg frames apart. I might have missed structural aspects like this one elsewhere..feel free to mention!
  5. Hello all, I have spent some weeks on designing a welding table and would very much appreciate some advice on it, before I commit to steel. I need it small and modular enough to be able to follow me in whatever apartment I might still move (Yes, apartment, get over it!!). Should be sturdy enough to handle workshop-scaled challenges of course. I need something to do some basic jewellery or leather work on anyway^^ I took inspiration from here and here. The latter video shows the hydraulic presses I´d like to use as well. This is it. The screws allow me to lower it to 86 cm height. There are some utility bars attached already. These are not definite. Crossbars for the hydraulic car-lifting-thingy included. 96cm (38.8''/ 3,15 foot) tops seems much.. but I simulated different heights with a crude setup, and found this to be what I´d like to work on while standing: "Expanders" pulled out. Strangely looking ends they have, but I can install drawers between the bars. Might still tinker with the height though, to facilitate larger drawers: Legs, Feet and Bottom support for one side. Where there is no screw, there is weld. The tubing is 40x40x3 and 50x50x4. The vendor checked if they can indeed be telescoped. There is an inside weld which bears watching, but it seems to work. Top supports. A separate module, just slid over and suspended on a welded-on plate or a thick bolt (visible on top-right leg): Long bars to bear the actual top plate, again just lied in place. To get the legs farther apart, I had to rest the right expander tube on the inside of the leg; hence the undersized crossbar. Those prominent screws are for tightening the expanders firmly in their bearings: Of course, I could have put the expander on the outside..which first I did. But then the legs would only have a distance of about 30..something cm on the inside. Making the entire table wider would have solved the problem, but as it is it has already 65cm depth, which is quite enough for an eating table. The expanders simply slide into the tubing. They could hold a plasma cutting grate, and wood plank with slit, or...whatever I am not thinking of. The holes in the top plate (6mm, 1/4'') are layed out in a 10x10cm pattern, threaded M10. Might not do the threading myself though. The short segment of the top plate is planned as Aluminum, to weld stainless steels. This should avoid rust forming due to impurities welded into the seam (just read that this was a thing...I don´t even know if it is :? ). So, I have been working on this for weeks. Please, let me know what errors or shortcomings I do not see. There usually are some... Also, what you would consider an upgrade on such a table, please share. Thank you! Best, Indi EDIT: If the pictures dn´t show, try this link.
  6. Thank you so much! Now I can move on untroubled
  7. You were right, was strenuous enough as it is! Got a few things going on here. I just noticed that, duh, I made a single-edged blade. I intend to quench in canola oil, vertically. Should I precurve it? All the knifes I see hardened on Youtube are not precurved. They seem to come out as inserted, thus I never thought about this. Then again, for longer things like swords it seems to be a thing regardless of a clay-coat (katanas only)... EDIT: This is the comment that got me thinking - The author does not distinguish between sword or knife: "My experience with marquenching low alloy, single edged blades of 5160 and O1 is that they lose appoximately 30% of their curvature quenched edge down or vertically, point first."
  8. Hello guys. I had to heat it up one last time for changes to correct a minute curve along the axis with two hammer strokes. To prevent new scaling I strew soap scrapings over it. Soap baked on tight, but I don´t think it scaled again...which is good. Used these two heats for normalization then. Now before I heat treat: I want a portion of the spine serrated and a groove in the front third of the blade. I wish to introduce these with files. Should I do that before or after the heat treating? Could imagine it a source of bending, or the teeth to bend themselves, which would be hard to correct. Thank you!
  9. Done that - you´re right, he makes it easy to see how he strikes. Thx! I think that´s it - I didn´t use half face blows on the far side of the anvil, rather full faced. That´s probably why I couldn´t taper the blade there. Felt a little wonky as well when I attempted that, half faced blows would have been much more stable in terms of hit and miss. I will give it a try when I pass by the smithy next time
  10. So, learned a few things...feels like learning to cross a street again. I had severe trouble getting the blade simply straight. Ended up buying a 20 inch aluminum ruler to check during the forging. I am satisfied now. What I wanted to bring up: When forging the bevels along the belly I worked on near and far edge of the anvil alternatingly, always pointing the belly to the edge and laying the spine on the anvil. I seemed to be unable to create an actual bevel on both sides. Only one side had hammer marks and was slanted, the other remained straight. I finally got both sides slanted towards a midline, doing it the way shown in the pic: Did I do that very wrong? I mean...it worked after all. Thanks!
  11. Hello again Frosty - thank you for your answer. I did not realize how misleading that pic was, sorry for that. Let me clear this up real quick: In the above photograph, I placed a printing of the knife-to-be over the metal bar. I had to draw the bar out to get the right length. I used the paper pattern to check if I got there already. The bar now is as long is the blade should be - it runs below the paper pattern from tip to tang. The tang of the bar is narrower already, I had to draw that section out more. As of yet, I haven´t done any grinding/ cutting. Does this help? EDIT: Thomas, thx - noted. I like to know what I am dealing with, that´s all. Now I do.
  12. Alright Guys, this is where we are: I finally got it drawn out to the right length. The handle is still ~2-3mm wider than on the paper, it´s just covered in the pic. I am unclear about how to proceed and wanted to check back with you on that. My idea is to cut away the excess around the tip with an angle grinder. I wanted to forge the blade bevels, not grind them. So along the edge I wanted to cut away the excess down to ... 1 or 2 mm over what´s printed on the paper? Leaving the blade a bit wider for now should allow me to grind away any decarburized/oxidized material once the bevels are forged down. Although I don´t even know if that happens in a propane tank forge...? Then it´d be beating it to banana shape over the concave portion of my RR track anvil and then forging the bevels. EDIT: When creating the banana, I assume I shall not try to hammer down any swelling/bulging/thickening of the material along the cutting edge - just let it grow, then make the bevels and correct thickness issues after, right? Thanks for ideas, suggestions and warnings. So long, Indi
  13. So, I am getting ahead of the process a bit, but this still needs to be learned. I have been searching for the proper quenching medium for 2235/80CrV2. I came up with this thread, the last post seems reliable. It suggests quenching with Canola Oil (120°F). Any objections or other suggestions? Thank you! Best, Indi
  14. Hello Frosty, by "screw starter fishing magnet" do you mean something like this? I can´t do a direct translation on that one. Today I narrowed the stock down further - nearly done with that. Steve was right, I don´t need much of a jig, the magnet-in-a-mesh hung on a wire worked...crudely, but it worked. During the recent research I discovered recalescence as a useful indicator. Played around with that and the magnet. Turns out, I´ve been higher in the lower temps than I thought during the last session, which is good. Next is forging the bar into a blade... so long.
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