Jon108

Thank you Lot’s of good food ideas !

Thanks, Would very much like to see a photo !

Thanks to everyone!

Thanks to everyone

Thanks everyone The link to the vise and rr track is awesome I am a beginner , so no power hammer or press. I do have a HF horizontal band saw, I thought being it was new, it has not work hardened from trains travelling on it. It looks nice sitting on top of a 6” by 6” by 4’ piece of Ipe.

Hi Everyone, My buddy dropped off a 136 lb 3’ piece of NEW railroad track. It has a large printed paper taped on to the side of the rail that says “New”. I already have a couple of old railroad tracks in use as “anvils”, one vertical 30” piece and one horizontal 12”. I appreciate any advice or ideas,

Thanks Frosty, Amazing how much a difference it can make, with the right hammer.

Thanks Thomas, Maybe that is why it has a really nice feel to it.

Thanks Thomas and Frosty, Yes, that is the hammer I have been referring to as a “mini-sledge”.

Shorter hammer head( drone head to head in a straight line ). shorter handle as well. I will get a pic and some measurements I am now considering the correct ratio between the hammer weight and the anvil weight. Thanks to the great advice given on this forum.

I don’t know much about hammers. This hammer belonged to my Father in law. He worked at National box company in the 1950’s, keeping the machinery running. He also worked on cars. The hammer has a short handle and a wide sledge hammer head. I will post some pics as soon as my Iphone is working again. i have a new cross peen hammer 1 1/2 - 2 lbs I also have a round hammer that is a bit lighter, which I like very much. I did my best to dress them both. ( in a wee suit ) lol

Thank you JHCC, I will take your advice, that makes a lot of sense. I have been watching a lot of blacksmithing basics with Alex Steele. Thank You Marc1, Very funny ! I think I got to liking the mini sledge when I used it to make square heads out of hex heads in stainless steel 304 1/4” lag bolts. It went so easily and worked out nice, and I surprised myself on my success on my first attempt

Thank You Thomas and Glenn, I appreciate the advice

Thank you Thomas and frosty, I will heed your advice. I prefer to forge outside in front yard of my shed, as I do with stick welding. I do have a CO detector in the shed, but if I am using the forge in the shed, I leave both windows and one door open as well as an air mover pushing air out of the window. It is attached to a hood that I can use to stick weld inside the shed. I can only swing that mini sledge for about 30 minutes in this heat. I will try a hammer I bought some years ago which is about 1 1/2 - 2 lbs. I tend to be a slow learner. I also try to be very safety oriented whenever I do any of my hobbies. I spent two years learning stick welding, by practicing laying beads and padding. I would practice with various types and sizes of electrodes as well as various thicknesses of steel. This taught me the basic ability to learn from the puddle, and to whip and pause for 6010. Only then did I move on to making stuff. If I am able to forge a knife, I probably will send it out to be heat treated .

Thank You Thomas, You nailed it on the head, I am very much still a beginner in forging anything, including knives. I have a good amount of mild steel, and I know it is not the correct steel to use for a knife, but I am still learning the basics. I will not forge on the post leg vice, thanks to your advice. once I develop some experience, and can forge the shape I am going after, I will move on to 1095. I will just forge in my shed where I have post anvils and RR track vertically mounted. The only anvil I have in the basement shop is a lowly cast iron anvil from HF OR GRIZZLY! I know it will break, so I have never tried using it Thanks again,