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Found 11 results

  1. Why do so many guys anvil stands look like welded scrap metal, they have no skills, they adopted a red headed step child, or just flat don't about the most used tool in the smithy. No matter what your stand is made of make it nice. I have seen all sorts of ugly terrible way guys fasten their anvils. Seen guys working on a stand that wobbles all over the place. It's were we spend most of our time. It should be the best managed, looked after, efficient, and usable piece of equipment in our smithy. Here are some tips and pics of my stand. So wood, metal, stone, or Kryptonite get a good fastening system in place. Chains with nails, screws, rubber bands, duct tape....come on. There is a better cleaner way. Some nice forged to fit straps, stakes, brackets. I use a set of hold downs forged to fit my anvil. It's clean efficient and compact. Drill and tap your plate, lag bolt, tapcon....ect. Tool racks. It should not look like there is a junk yard around your anvil. I designed and cut my top plate from 1/2" or thicker plate steel. I have holes for hammers, tongs, ect and slots for hardy tools and more. I did this because I have seem many stands with loops and flat bar welded on to flat plate..... it looks sloppy and over time they get bent or broke off because people naturally drop tools into them and the weight crashing down just wares it out over time. 5 years my top plate is still sturdy and solid with no broken or bent tool racks. Now I am not a fan of the stump or wood. I prefer steel. It allows me to get in closet to my anvil so I am not bent over as much, there is storage underneath and having only 3 legs it never wobbles. I work big steel and use my anvil with a bending hardy a lot so Ilike my anvil bolted to the floor. I also like to have space to set tongs, hand tools wire brush on. So I use a swiveling removable tool tray. I just found a pipe and piece of steel that fit inside one another and welded the pipe to my stand, opposite side I stand on. I welded 2 points of contact one at the horn and one at the heel. I can move it to the part I am working at. I like to use expanded metal for these tool trays or shelves because the scale falls thru. I have rubber on my tray because it keeps the tools from making noise because of the vibrations from hammering. Let me know your thoughts, let me see your stands, ask questions, let make these thing better and more functional.
  2. Thanks to njanvilman ive been able to identify my anvil and thanks to a bunch of old fashioned elbow grease I've finally got my stand done, my anvil wire wheeled and a nice coat of lindseed oil cooked on. Even made a nameplate at work for free identifying the anvil in case i kick the bucket so the next guy will know what it is haha. Tell me what you think. Constructive criticism is welcomed. PS I know the anvil needs to be attached to the stand. Right now I just have it routed out and set in the pattern.
  3. I have been working on a new stand for my PW, since I purchased the anvil two years ago. I gathered the wood, construction lumber, and started thinking about how I was going to start the project. I started thinking my garage floor is level, checked with a level, should be able to get the wood glued together and flat. Predrilled over size holes to allow for adjustments, should work. Got some threaded Rod, nut, flats and locks, let's get started. Spread the construction adhesive, slide all of the pieces together, snugged up the nuts banged the boards to make sure they were all sitting flat, tightened the nuts and added clamps, all,done right... Wrong ! The stand wobbled worse than if I didn't even try to square it up during the gluing and clamping, what to do next ! In another thread about leveling an Anvil Stand, Steve posted a method he used with a router to level. Thanks to Steve and his write up with pictures I attempted his method and it turned out very well, a level stand. First I took a set of Saw Horses, reenforced the lower shelves with 3/4" plywood and some 2x4s to hold the shelf in place. I then added strips of wood to the tops of the saw horses to add height to the top to clear he Sand and setup the Router with angle iron slides so it can move back and forth on the wooden strips. I then placed the block of wood I call an Anvil Stand on the lower reenforced shelf, plumbed it and checked the bottom, facing upward, to find where the the high points were and marked the block low spot as the starting point. I set the router to one third the amount I wanted to remove and started the process of moving the router back and forth on the block of wood, proceeding slowly, three-eighths of an inch cuts across the block and cutting from the same side each time. Three passes on the bottom of the stand ended in a reasonably flat surface. From here the block was flipped so the top could be cut flat. Again we got started by checking the plumb of the block, it was not perfect but the bubble was within the level lines, and as it turned out it was off the same amount the Saw Hoirses were off, so I'm good, found the low point and marked it. After three passes with the router, taking one third cuts, all from the same side across the block, the top was flat and parallel to the bottom, great ! As it turns out it was a time consuming process, easier than I thought to get it done, and I am a very happy metal bender. This picture shows the direction I used in my milling process. This method worked out well, at this point I had a flat solid stand to use in my cement floored shop so it should stay flat. Take your time, slow movement, shallow cuts, and small side wards cuts, i.e. Half the blade width max. What ever you use for sliding rails, i.e. angle iron, get pieces long enough to move the router beyond the block edge, you don't need to be stop for lack of space and find you didn't make a complete cross cut. When I setup the block I attempted to find level, based on the shelf I made, I could get close but still had a rocking. I realized that I needed a datum to start from, my main piece of wood, the center core, was what I wanted to be straight up and square to the mass,so I plumbed the sides of the centerpiece of wood, shimmed it for perpendicular its to the shelf and started cutting/milling. I ended up, after the third pass, with a black with the sides of the center core perpendicular to the bottom. At this point I flipped the block and plumbed the sides to the to, before Illini, and found that the block was sitting flat on the shelf and the sides of the center core were plumb to the flat of the bottom. All I needed to do was level the top portion of the block and wham bam, I got my flat, non-rocking block. (I hope that isn't too confusingly) ! The block was flat on the ground, didn't rock, and I was happy but I needed to add some additional wood to the bottom, shouldn't be a biggy right ! I added the wood to the bottom and yes... It was-a-rock'n again ! Flipped the block over placed it in the make shift milling machine and raised the side to compensate for the extra wood on the bottom, AND started the router, proceeded to remove more wood to get it back to level again and it worked and worked well, again thank you Steve ! This method appears to be the easiest in the long run; a little more costly than a belt sander, that is if you don't have all of the pieces but it is by far the best way I have used to achieve flat parallel surfaces on my Wooden Anvil Stand ! Thanks for reading, hope you can understand what I am trying to say and don't disgaurd this method until you have tried it, it works great ! GrevB
  4. Not quite done, I would like to wrap flat stick around the top and add some flare. I'm getting married in a week tho so that's bin taking up my time lately. Anyways just wanted to show my progress . after cutting up the railroad tie I used boiled linseed oil to seal the ends. Screwed the upright ties to the bace and ran threaded rid through it. I haven't sucred it to the ties yet either I was thinking flat stock heated up and pounded fold over the anvils feet. Any thoughts or criticism is welcome. Thanks guys!
  5. Got a little time today to start a stand for my new anvil. Plan on using this both inside and out so incorporated in some legs that are adjustable so can get it close to level wherever it decides to rest. Didn't have much time today so this is a work in progress. Started out with a 1" steel plate for the base. The legs are made from 2-1/2" x 1/4" square tube. The feet are made from 4" SCH 80 pipe that have 1-1/8" Grade 8 bolts for the adjustment. The bolts are welded to a piece of 1/2" plate with the nut concealed up inside of the 2-1/2" tube, The 4" pipe has a 1/2" plate welded with a 1-17/16" hole punched into it and then welded to one end of the 4" pipe with a nut welded on the top side. There is enough bolt so there is 4" of adjustment so the stand can be used for different height anvils to get the correct working height. The lowest setting I have it would be about 31" where 33" is about the perfect height for me. Still have to come up with a attachment system that will work for the Fisher and the Fawcett anvils I have. There will be a hole through the 1" plate that will be inline with the pritchell hole and the hardy hole. Only got about 3 hours into it today so will post some pictures when it receives more attention. Plan on leaving drilling holes in the plate for hammers and other tools. The anvil that is setting on there in the picture is an 80lb Fisher and though I didn't weigh the stand, I'm guessing it is a little more than the weight of the Fisher.
  6. My old anvil stump rotted away! I decided to replace it with one made of treated yellow pine. I hope that this one may last as long as I'll need one! I built it in two stacked tiers of closely spaced stringers. The bottom tier has stringers running perpendicular to the long axis of my anvil. The next tier is built with the stringers running parallel to the long axis of my anvil. I used treated two X eights for the stand and pre drilled for nails. I used 5" galvanized ring shank spikes to join with. The finished stand is 14 3/4" tall and 22" X 16" overall. I bought two 16' lengths but had 11 feet leftover. The stand is now in use and is much better than the old stump,ever was. My safety inspector takes a close look! He notices that I haven't cleaned up my scraps and sawdust! Transformed a few railroad spikes into hooks as a test project! The stand is great!
  7. I somewhat finished my anvil stand. I'm just happy I've finally got it off the floor. Still working to secure the anvil to the stand but give me a bit of time and I'll have it done.
  8. Boyhowdy

    anvil stand 001

    Just finished the Stand today. I have looked at MANY different stands, and this style what I decided to build. It's quite Heavy duty. This is the front
  9. Boyhowdy

    anvil stand 002

    This is the backside
  10. The Peddinghaus I got is SO NICE and SO NEW I decided it needed it's own custom dedicated brand new stand, so I have been taking evenings and fabricating one. Kept it s the horn protrudes over the edge for extra free space when bending big things around it, plus extra stability over the 2 legs, Added a little tray for holding things like punches, lube can, chisels and rivets and stuff, with a hammer ring and a bending fork/tool holder out the other end. I would have liked to use something more substantial then 1/4" plate but that's what I had, hence the gusset, and figured I would ridgidize the whole thing with gussets all over. I want to add more tooling rings, and some made special for specific tools. I need to add some wood or perhaps some G10 slabs under the anvil to cushion things and also adjust the height perfectly, then figure out how I want to anchor it to the stand so as to be easily removed for transport, I want to do something cool and mechanical.
  11. Hi all, Haven't been around for far too long, but it looks like I'll having a nice forging workshop set up in the next few weeks. I want to do my anvil stand this weekend, and I've been looking at plans. The easiest material for me to get and use right now is angle iron, about 6x35mm, or around 1/4" thick and 1 3/8" wide on each side. My plan was to make a tight fitting angle-iron base for the anvil, and then weld 4 feet at a slight angle. Of course, I would then use either the same (or slightly lighter) angle iron to make bars going between the feet for added stability. Most builds I see here use tubing, that I reckon will ring a lot more unless you fill it with sand and/or oil, which I'd like to avoid. Time is limited, and I would prefer moving on to smithing instead of fabrication. The question is whether this will hold together nicely. The anvil must be somewhere between 200 and 250 pounds, or between 90 and 120kg, I think. I was also wondering whether I can reduce this to 3 feet instead of 4, since I am on uneven ground. I'm worried that I'll topple the structure over while pulling or pushing it around. The concrete floor isn't exactly level or smooth. Thanks in advance! :)