Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'anvil stand'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
  • Safety
  • Sections
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum

Categories

  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill

Categories

  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Location


Biography


Interests


Occupation

Found 9 results

  1. Thanks to njanvilman ive been able to identify my anvil and thanks to a bunch of old fashioned elbow grease I've finally got my stand done, my anvil wire wheeled and a nice coat of lindseed oil cooked on. Even made a nameplate at work for free identifying the anvil in case i kick the bucket so the next guy will know what it is haha. Tell me what you think. Constructive criticism is welcomed. PS I know the anvil needs to be attached to the stand. Right now I just have it routed out and set in the pattern.
  2. Why do so many guys anvil stands look like welded scrap metal, they have no skills, they adopted a red headed step child, or just flat don't about the most used tool in the smithy. No matter what your stand is made of make it nice. I have seen all sorts of ugly terrible way guys fasten their anvils. Seen guys working on a stand that wobbles all over the place. It's were we spend most of our time. It should be the best managed, looked after, efficient, and usable piece of equipment in our smithy. Here are some tips and pics of my stand. So wood, metal, stone, or Kryptonite get a good fastening system in place. Chains with nails, screws, rubber bands, duct tape....come on. There is a better cleaner way. Some nice forged to fit straps, stakes, brackets. I use a set of hold downs forged to fit my anvil. It's clean efficient and compact. Drill and tap your plate, lag bolt, tapcon....ect. Tool racks. It should not look like there is a junk yard around your anvil. I designed and cut my top plate from 1/2" or thicker plate steel. I have holes for hammers, tongs, ect and slots for hardy tools and more. I did this because I have seem many stands with loops and flat bar welded on to flat plate..... it looks sloppy and over time they get bent or broke off because people naturally drop tools into them and the weight crashing down just wares it out over time. 5 years my top plate is still sturdy and solid with no broken or bent tool racks. Now I am not a fan of the stump or wood. I prefer steel. It allows me to get in closet to my anvil so I am not bent over as much, there is storage underneath and having only 3 legs it never wobbles. I work big steel and use my anvil with a bending hardy a lot so Ilike my anvil bolted to the floor. I also like to have space to set tongs, hand tools wire brush on. So I use a swiveling removable tool tray. I just found a pipe and piece of steel that fit inside one another and welded the pipe to my stand, opposite side I stand on. I welded 2 points of contact one at the horn and one at the heel. I can move it to the part I am working at. I like to use expanded metal for these tool trays or shelves because the scale falls thru. I have rubber on my tray because it keeps the tools from making noise because of the vibrations from hammering. Let me know your thoughts, let me see your stands, ask questions, let make these thing better and more functional.
  3. Not quite done, I would like to wrap flat stick around the top and add some flare. I'm getting married in a week tho so that's bin taking up my time lately. Anyways just wanted to show my progress . after cutting up the railroad tie I used boiled linseed oil to seal the ends. Screwed the upright ties to the bace and ran threaded rid through it. I haven't sucred it to the ties yet either I was thinking flat stock heated up and pounded fold over the anvils feet. Any thoughts or criticism is welcome. Thanks guys!
  4. Got a little time today to start a stand for my new anvil. Plan on using this both inside and out so incorporated in some legs that are adjustable so can get it close to level wherever it decides to rest. Didn't have much time today so this is a work in progress. Started out with a 1" steel plate for the base. The legs are made from 2-1/2" x 1/4" square tube. The feet are made from 4" SCH 80 pipe that have 1-1/8" Grade 8 bolts for the adjustment. The bolts are welded to a piece of 1/2" plate with the nut concealed up inside of the 2-1/2" tube, The 4" pipe has a 1/2" plate welded with a 1-17/16" hole punched into it and then welded to one end of the 4" pipe with a nut welded on the top side. There is enough bolt so there is 4" of adjustment so the stand can be used for different height anvils to get the correct working height. The lowest setting I have it would be about 31" where 33" is about the perfect height for me. Still have to come up with a attachment system that will work for the Fisher and the Fawcett anvils I have. There will be a hole through the 1" plate that will be inline with the pritchell hole and the hardy hole. Only got about 3 hours into it today so will post some pictures when it receives more attention. Plan on leaving drilling holes in the plate for hammers and other tools. The anvil that is setting on there in the picture is an 80lb Fisher and though I didn't weigh the stand, I'm guessing it is a little more than the weight of the Fisher.
  5. My old anvil stump rotted away! I decided to replace it with one made of treated yellow pine. I hope that this one may last as long as I'll need one! I built it in two stacked tiers of closely spaced stringers. The bottom tier has stringers running perpendicular to the long axis of my anvil. The next tier is built with the stringers running parallel to the long axis of my anvil. I used treated two X eights for the stand and pre drilled for nails. I used 5" galvanized ring shank spikes to join with. The finished stand is 14 3/4" tall and 22" X 16" overall. I bought two 16' lengths but had 11 feet leftover. The stand is now in use and is much better than the old stump,ever was. My safety inspector takes a close look! He notices that I haven't cleaned up my scraps and sawdust! Transformed a few railroad spikes into hooks as a test project! The stand is great!
  6. I somewhat finished my anvil stand. I'm just happy I've finally got it off the floor. Still working to secure the anvil to the stand but give me a bit of time and I'll have it done.
  7. Boyhowdy

    anvil stand 001

    Just finished the Stand today. I have looked at MANY different stands, and this style what I decided to build. It's quite Heavy duty. This is the front
  8. Boyhowdy

    anvil stand 002

    This is the backside
  9. Hi all, Haven't been around for far too long, but it looks like I'll having a nice forging workshop set up in the next few weeks. I want to do my anvil stand this weekend, and I've been looking at plans. The easiest material for me to get and use right now is angle iron, about 6x35mm, or around 1/4" thick and 1 3/8" wide on each side. My plan was to make a tight fitting angle-iron base for the anvil, and then weld 4 feet at a slight angle. Of course, I would then use either the same (or slightly lighter) angle iron to make bars going between the feet for added stability. Most builds I see here use tubing, that I reckon will ring a lot more unless you fill it with sand and/or oil, which I'd like to avoid. Time is limited, and I would prefer moving on to smithing instead of fabrication. The question is whether this will hold together nicely. The anvil must be somewhere between 200 and 250 pounds, or between 90 and 120kg, I think. I was also wondering whether I can reduce this to 3 feet instead of 4, since I am on uneven ground. I'm worried that I'll topple the structure over while pulling or pushing it around. The concrete floor isn't exactly level or smooth. Thanks in advance! :)