Ranchmanben

I suspect it was mild steel and not heat treated. I did a spark test on it and compared it to a few samples and the Sparks were closest to some hot rolled mild steel. Also, the way it was bent in multiple places makes me think it was mild. After forging I let if cool off for 15 minutes or so before I quenched it. I guess I'll find out this fall, when he sows in wheat, if the repair worked. It wasn't a terribly old disk, 30yrs or so.

Bengriswold made some really good points. For the most part I use a tooth bladed Makita saw, which is not a true cold cut saw nor is the Rage. I couldn't go back to an abrasive chop saw. It cuts quicker, cleaner and cooler than an abrasive and if you take care of your blades they take care of you. I do cut plenty of sucker rod with mine but for coil spring, which is a pain to cut with any chop saw, I use the HB portable bandsaw. Although I've cut 3" round bar with my saw I usually try to do most of my heavy cutting with the torch, i.e. Forklift tines. Also, if you ask around, there might be someone to sharpen that blade for you. I found a guy through the shop I buy my blades from and he charges $15 a resharpening.

Like Arkie said, looks good! I'm a big believer in table space, you can never have enough flat space to lay tools and forget where you put them. Also, I see some kegs in the back ground, I think they make the best slack tubs!

LBS, that look really good! Tools like center puches are constantly used but I, nor many other smiths, think the embellish them. Nice thinking. Got to take a break from repairing a windmill today to do a little traditional blacksmith work on a modern tool. Straightened out a part for my neighbors plow that was getting re-disked. Largest piece of steel I've hammered on, 3/4"x 6"x not sure how long. It was bent along the entire length.

Not that I want it but I'm curious about the original anvil posted. It looks like it was used for a long time for a specific purpose rather than just abused. At first I thought bending shoes but now I don't think so. That anvil has a story to it, probably a boring one of only one job though.

I think that's a pretty good selection you've lined out.

Nothing wrong with that, far better than meth.

Ordinarily I watch out for it more but for this pair, since they're only being used for one low stress job, I'm not overly worried about it. Being built from coil spring should help too.

Tongs for holding my touch mark made from coil spring.

Tongs to hold my touch mark.

That vise is rusty! Good thing rust can be handled. I'd figure out a way to soak the pivot in some sort of penetrating oil for a few days. Then I'd put a pry bar between the jaws to see if I could start freeing them up. If all else fails, heat the nut with a torch then put the mash on it with a big wrench. I'd be surprised if the handle is completely rusted together since those two pieces usually have a fair amount of room between them. You might try taking the screw out so its easier to get to and hitting the end of the handle with a rubber mallet or a big wooden hammer.

That's a handy link, thanks for bringing it to my attention.

That looks like a good anvil with a tool steel face. Don't get too hung up on the ball bearing test. It more of a test for when you're going to look at a prospective anvil for purchase. It's a good test to know but since you already own it, clean it and beat it.

I wonder if the tool steel face is any thicker on those bigger Vulcans or if it's still paper thin.

To quote my 8th grade history teacher, "Simple minds, simple pleasures." Just kidding. I could see how someone would like it but I like doing the working end much more than the reins. If I had to pick a part I like the most it would be punching the hole. No idea why, I just like it.

Glad to hear it. There's no way around it, drawing out reins is time consuming and not much fun without a power hammer. The more you do it, the more comfortable you'll be with it, you'll find out what works for you and you'll get quicker. Also you'll build up stamina. One think I didn't point out above it that I only use that zig zag method with the tall side standing vertically. It's good for getting you down to square material to work.

Looks like a poorly made modern copy of a medieval stirrup of some sort! Other than that, I've got nothing of value to add.

John, you've picked up on a lot of the things I've put into these like the parallel reins, the open spot between them for hanging and the swelled ends. I'm not really sure if mine don't flex as much as others but I've noticed that tongs without parallel reins sort of want to twist on me when I'm grabbing the really hard. As I said before, I like making them and so I'm constantly looking for ways to improve each pair.

The 2" receivers are a great idea! Really well done. How many pounds of rod did you burn building that? Not a bad thing but there are a ton of welds!

Thanks. I'll not sure if I can link it here so I'll send you a link of the targets these are based on.

Two different lines, mild and medium carbon steel, is a solid idea. I tried to find pictures of Dennis Manning tongs but had no luck.

Ar500 steel, not sure what that actually is other than some sort of hardened steel. I'm waiting on the "heads" which will be 10" circles of the same steel. Before anyone asks, I very sincerely don't want to shoot anybody. This style just happens to be a good target and gives you a couple of different target sizes on the same stand.

Nothing too exciting. Built some stands for rifle targets.

Sometimes you gotta mess them up pretty good before you fix them. It looks like you might have 3/8"X1" there? The are a couple of ways to draw that out to help you speed up the process and not wear yourself out. The first is to make the bar square then start using half on blows while rotating the stock. Again Brian Brazeal has a good video of this method on you tube. Another method is to create a series of notches on both sides using the edge of your anvil holding the stock at 30 degrees or so then flatening it out. Your material ends up with a zig zag pattern before you flatten it out. I don't know of a video of this and I'm not very good at describing things so I sketched this out. Not the best but you should get the idea.

I generally just cut a coil off with the band saw and burn the paint off in the forge.