Ranchmanben

Thanks Irondragon. All of the information helps. I’ll check it out now.

On the recommendation of lazyassforge - I pulled the key holding the spider on and moved the spider 1/4” in. This took up the slack in the drive shaft, made the clutch engage quicker and resolved the clutch fork issue. It’s getting better! In the video I’m drawing down a piece of 4”x3/8” .

A washer was what I was thinking about. The placement is the issue. Is yours behind the fly wheel or in front of the clutch pulley? I would assume that I’d want it behind the fly wheel because that puts the pitman more inline with the ram. I suspect if I can take up that slack that will remedy the clutch fork issue as well.

As far as I can tell, so far, I haven’t got any binding on the guides. In fact the guides were extremely sloppy when I got it. I tightened them up a smidge today and that seemed to help the consistency of the hits. I’ve got a spring on both sides of the hammer connected to the clutch fork in addition to the spring on the right side of the treadle. To me, it doesn’t seem like a spring issue. I went back up to the shop to take another look and the main shaft has got 1/4” of front to back play, seems like that’s got something to do with the clutch disengaging. I’ll get a video of it tomorrow.

Thanks Beaudry. That was the first thing I tried. Didn’t work very well and that’s when I started having the issue of the clutch not disengaging.

Bet that was helpful! It was suppose to be a video but it obviously did not work. If someone would be kind enough to explain to me how would be best to upload videos I’ll get it posted. I feel like I should clarify the not hitting hard part. It will hit hard but you’ve got to baby the treadle to do it. It seems like the faster it runs the less hard it hits.

I’ve got my new to me 100lb little giant mounted and I’m having some issues. If tried searching for these problems using google and iforgeiron bit haven’t had much luck. I plan on purchasing one of the dvds in adjusting these but buying the hammer wiped out the smithing fund. This hammer doesn’t seem to be hitting very hard. I’ve read that I need 2” between the dies for the most power but I can’t figure out how exactly to do that. If I raise the collar up on the pitman it doesn’t hit at all. Sometimes the clutch doesn’t disengage and it will keep hitting although not hard. It’s got additional springs connected to the clutch fork so I don’t think it’s a spring issue. The clutch has a pretty decent coating of oil as well. Also, one side of the clutch fork pops off of the tab if I mash on the treadle. I’ll be happy to take pictures or videos of anything needed to diagnose the issues. Thanks bad link removed

There’s another one going on this weekend.

I can’t ever get that much pattern out of my cable Damascus. What did you use to etch it?

This looks like a great resource, thanks John.

I would have loved to go to this but I found out about it too late and spent too much money lately.

No actual info here other than I’ve got a couple of knives with elmax blades and they sure are tough. Good for you for using a premium steel.

A brick forge out of those brick would be really neat looking, lots of character.

Could you make a Venturi burner with some sort of vortex device?

You’re a tenacious son of a gun. Nice anvil.

I’d like to see the finished product.

I always like gates to be at least a few inches above ground so hinges don’t get clogged up and the gate doesn’t get hung up on a pebble.

Looks like a fine anvil. Use in good health.

That is some superb Damascus.

I don’t know what I’d do with that much anvil.

This is the route I’d go.

If you’re forging a hot cut, I’d forge it out, let it air cool and call it good.

I’m a big fan of coke. I prefer it over coal. Never tried charcoal though.

That’s a nice haul, Shady.

Mighty fine knife!