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  1. elmax

    haha Charles i may just take you up on that offer....i am actually curious as to how SOMEONE else besides me really works it hard i have only sold and gifted a couple of folders and no one has complained i use mine the first one i carried i beat up the second one not so much its got moku ti and a beautiful dama steel blade i like it to much. I did send one of my knives to a guy that has been helping me from day 1 knife making and he said it was very solid and well constructed coming from him that means a lot ....but he only had a day or 2 with it so he didnt beat it up that much....like i said i beat one up and i think its solid but would like some one else to do so as well....you may be getting a message from me Charles when the next batch is done :-)
  2. elmax

    Thanks every one...What i have always done is when i use a new steel i follow the spec sheet and go to a target of around 60 and of corse check with my hardness tester then i finish out the knife (fairly quickly as it will not be sold its a test) i will then first i use the knife AS A KNIFE SHOULD BE USED!!!! cutting carboard rope all sorts of things the whole time i am keeping track of ecxactly how much i am cutting and noting how the knife dulls... after that what i do is ABUSE the knife...now as makers we all know what a knife should be used for and what it shoudnt but i think we also know that some of our customers will not listen to us and they will start battoning a small knife through something or use the tip as a pry bar....Ok i blame forged in fire for this i even had a customer take a fixed blade i made and he went and bought a big brass bolt and layed the edge on the bolt and took a hammer to the spine!! then he wanted to know why the edge got messed up! so yeh after i do real world tests i abuse it and see how much it will take... depending on how things perform if i started at a hardness of 60 i will make another at a 61 or 59 and repete the tests, after i find where a knife has a good hardness AND holds up best for my testing then my heat treat gets adjusted to make that knife again.. some times i play with things another maker gave me a tip for s35vn that involves quenching in oil till black then hanging it in a pipe with a seam in it length wise (like a vent pipe) and blowing air through that seam that work great... i usually start with a hardness of 60 unless the spec sheet hints to something different but i had read with this steel it should be slightly lower but it didnt say how much lower ill just do what what i have been doing its worked good so far
  3. elmax

    i just google it and well it seems you either drop a ball and let it hit the steel from a certain height or a ball swings on a penjulum to hit the steel....from the pics and video i saw what they were using would have to be heavily modified for our uses do you have any links to any info on how to make one or are there rigs out there to buy cheap enough...not going to buy or start making one today but deffinitly need to get more info on the subject
  4. elmax

    never even herd of a charpy test rig..
  5. elmax

    yeh your right the harde you make them the longer it will hold its edge but when you do sharpen its harder to sharpen if the steel is softer it will be easy to sharpen but you will have to do it mor often....usually there is kinda of a window not a exact target like say 60.2 but from 1 steel to another one may have peek toughness and performance higher at say 60.5-61 others may be at 59.....i have a hardness testeer so i can use that to know the exact hardness and ill just have to test the blades at different hardness levels to see how they re act (same thing i did in the past for s35vn)
  6. elmax

    Hey guys i have been using s35vn 440c damasteel and other stainless Damascus even used vanax but i just cut 2 folding knife blades from elmax. i have seen the spec sheets and different heat treat charts that are out there so i have a good idea of how to get it to different hardness but no where did i find a "target" harness some steels work better than others at certain hardness so i am wondering what my target should be for these 2 folders. Has anyone used this steel and tested it and figured this out? any info/advice would be appreciated!
  7. flipper's titanium liners

    thanks guys! i think this is going to just take some experimenting like making it and carrying the knife and make sure it can take the abuse...... the bearings them self are .0625 thick and you dont want them level with the titanium you want them a lil proud to keep a lil room between the knife and the titanium so if i was to drill all the way through the titanium and have the handle material back the bearings i would have to use .0425 titanium as i usually leave them about .02 proud and that is very thin titanium for a liner also i dont think the bearings would ride quite as smoothly or as fast resting on the handle material...when it runs on titanium obviously the titanium is softer but it runs a lil "track" on the titanium and it gives the balls a nice smooth track to run on...you can put a hardened washer in there and they would run even better but i am trying to shrink things adding a washer would do the opposite and they ride really good on the titanium so if it aint broke dont fix it,,,,,, either way thanks for the advice guys i think like so many other things in knife making trial and error is going to prove the best method
  8. Hey guys so i been making some flippers recently and i have been using .1 thick titanium and counter boring the bearing pockets .045 into the titanium....that leave .055 of titanium. Well i am thinking about making a couple that are smaller than what i have been doing. so i am wondering how much i could thin out the handle by using thinner titanium. but i am wondering how anyone else does it if the bearing pockets are .045 how thin can the titanium be...i am thinking .055 (what is left after the pockets) is thicker than it needs to be but not quite sure how thin i can go...does anyone out there use thinner titanium?
  9. natural wood

    Hey Guys so i don't use wood that much and when i do its stabilized however i just used a block for a hidden tang kitchen knife that i am sure is iron wood but i thought it was stabilized but after grinding into it now i don't think it is so i am trying to figure out what to use to finish it i have heard of wax's polish's oil's varnish's ect.....can anyone point me in the right direction here?
  10. Hey guys so you know that G10 that is textured basicly the way you get it has a top layer that you peel off revieling the texture undernieth then treat it just like any other handle material just don't grind the texture down. So I am having issues with peeling off that top layer it doesn't want to come off. I have even tried taking a razor blade and gutting it right under that peelable layer but I still cant get it right, the best a I did was I cut test piece and got the razor in there but the razor didn't get under the first layer it actually got into the handle material and cracked it so one side peeled ok but half of it basicly broke the material in half.... Does anyone have any sugestions on doing this....this stuff would be perfect for a knife I am working on but cant get it to peel right. ANY help would be appreciated THANKS
  11. Ok guys so I have searched the forum and didn't find much so I am looking for the truth on zirconium and the zirconium/titanium mixes (zircu ti and black timascus)....so first one of the supply sites made me sign a release just to buy the stuff and they told me that not only does it throw off crazy amount of sparks (I think the description was "titanium on steroids") what surprised me tho is they told me that any time you make dust or chips wether it be from the grinder a mill a band saw anything that creates chips these chips can self ignite 2 hours later 2 days later 2 months later! they told me to make sure I sweep up all the chips (in my mind I think its absolutely impossible to get every single lil chip) they even told me a story where a guy that uses a lot of zirconium stores it in a 50 gal drum filled with water and well he put it in his pick up to go and get rid of it and apparently there wasn't enough water and the whole drum self ignited in the back of his truck burning a hole through the bed of his truck and even burning a hole in the road......so 2 other suppliers told me yes it throws ALOT of sparks but once those sparks are out they are out they don't self ignite at a random time later on. So what I am trying to find out how dangerous is this stuff...everyone I talk to says something different. I have even searched the web for answers finding some sites saying yes it will self ignite and other sites saying no it wont....so for the people that have used any of these materials.... How do you go about keeping things safe? Is the zirc/titanium mix (zircu ti, black timascus) just as dangerous as the pure zirconium? ANY info on these materials would be appreciated I would like to start working with some of this stuff but my shop is the basement and garage of my house I cant light this place up so I gota be as safe as possible even if that means putting one of my grinders on a stand with wheels and push it out side when grinding this stuff...I do already have a 5 gal bucket of the powder they put in fire extinguisher....any info would help guys THANKS
  12. Help fixing a warped blade

    I know another maker that made a angle iron frame as you did foundryman. but still used round rods as the 3 points but also instead of using clamps he drilled a clearenc holes on one side and a taped holes on the other and would tighten it up and put it in the oven at tempering temp after it heats up a little he would take it out and tighten the sscrews up and do this little by little putting it back in the oven after each small amount of tightening until the blade was straight then let it sit in temper for another half hour to hour then take the whole thing out and let it cool while its still bolted straight...he says doing it this way give it less of a chance for that "ting of death" this man has been making knives for a very very long time and even tho I have never tried it I belive it works 100% got a lot of good infor from this man
  13. Pakistani blades

    I agree take the time and effort and learn to do your own then you know exactly how the whole thing is made....yeh it will take a couple blade and some time to really start to get it right but when you have a knife that performs well looks good and feels good and you did the WHOLE thing yourself...MUCH more rewarding!
  14. Just happened to see this post...seems like every one likes our knife theo. But there is a little bit of pure nickle in that blade as well not much but a little...I was actually surprised how good the Damascus came out the pattern was a little looser than I wanted but there was absolutely no flaws when I was grinding for one of the first ones I did on the press I am happy.. I will let theo correct me if I am wrong but from what I remember he etched the blade in instant coffee alone NO acid. however I have heard of people using ferric in a 3 to 1 mix with distled water then coffee after that...this only works on carbon Damascus not stainless
  15. cts-xhp or elemax

    Hey guys so I started making folding knives a few moths back....now I had been using 440c and cpms35vn on my fixed blades so naturally I used that in some folders I have also used some stainless Damascus on the folders...now I am looking to a new steel to use on some of my folders. Now from what I can see is CTS-XHP and Elemax are both very popular on folders. I have done some researching and reading of the spec sheets but I want some real world info on how these two steels stack up both to each other and the steels I am already using. So any info any one has on these 2 steels that might help me make up my mind on wich one to start with. ALL info would be appreciated from actually working with the steel to sharpening and edge holding ect....my decision on the 2 is still up in the air but I am leaning slightly towards CTS-XHP........thanks guys!