Kozzy

The rat tail doesn't fit but the other end might---a lot of die-filer files had a pointed/pyramid tip like the one shown which fit into a top brace to keep the file steady and square under machine movement.

Pondering this one. Butane lighters are fairly new and the notion of not lighting from the flame pre-dates them. That means we're really talking about matches and zippos. I can see why the match thing would be a poor idea--dropped matches, blow it out with the gas, fiddling around re-lighting etc. A zippo-style might be considered bad because you're essentially holding an ounce of lighter fluid in your hand--what happens if you drive oxygen inside from the torch because someone mistakenly turned on the O2 instead of the acetylene first? Just tossing that out as a potential theory. Edit--talking about welders which is where I was taught not to use a lighter

Looking at some high temp derating information for tensile strength on some materials---unfortunately not a data format that is useful regarding forging but just to give a rough idea of the difference: At 1400F, the difference in listed working tension (not true yield or anything statistical) from lowest to highest on the list is 700 %...at 1800 that drops to a difference of about 100%. What that tells me is that you have to work em hot or the difference can feel HUGE. Even a little cold and the hard ones will be far harder to move. Some of the lesser materials without all the good herbs & spices in the mix just drop off the list at those higher temps because they get so soft---That's one reason the chart isn't worth getting into specific detail on. Plus I doubt anyone here is forging Inconel.

Second the notion of checking the swivel bases---many are poorly made int eh first place and barely hold so get over-tightened. Chinese vices are especially bad on this account as one of the places they save material is the swivel base. A vice is a lifetime tool so worth putting some decent money into. Also, there is a HUGE difference in quality between the current crop of chinese made vices and the old school machinists vices. If there is time, I'd personally get on the mailing list/check the website of whatever local auctioneer tends to handle machine shop closures and get the old school vice. It'll be worth both the wait and cost. I'd also pick up some of those soft jaw covers: They look like a piece of soft sheet metal that you bend to cover the knurled face of the jaws so that those jaw teeth don't leave marks on your project. There is also a magnetic version of the same thing but I haven't tried it.

Yes, tallow and lard oils were once the lubricants of choice for machinists. The problem is, the oils can go rancid which is pretty nasty. It gets really bad on machines which have a sump and recirculating coolant/lubes--when you have the wrong stuff in there it's one of the worst jobs in the world to clean out the scum and stank and blooms of nasty growing stuff. It can even be a problem with modern coolants and lubes---and the CNC guys have long discussions about ways to kill/avoid the stink. Cleaning sumps is where the greenhorn pays his dues before getting to work on real stuff. But....I really do miss the old fast food french fries which had tallow in the oil they were fried in at the factory. MUCH better than the modern vegetable oils. It wasn't the vegetarians who killed tallow in fry oil, it was mad cow disease: When Japan and other foreign countries banned ALL beef products in the last mad cow scare, there were millions of pounds of tallow-fried french fries en-route to those countries that had to be sent back, most being destroyed at a huge cost to the french fry producers. They decided it wasn't worth the risk and to just stick with veggie oils (plus some other trends that made them give in).

The flipside of all this is the blanket dismissal of information which doesn't fit your current dogma because it comes from the internet. That's just as bad as simple acceptance of internet "facts" without further research. The internet is correct as often as wrong..arguably more often correct. If you really want to find an example of "internet facts", all you have to do is look at Thomas Jefferson quotes used in memes: About 95% of the time, Jefferson never said that. Similar with Hitler/nazi quotes. For some reason those seem to ring true with people (probably because they were intentionally designed to) so they get parroted ad nauseam. I have one client is who constantly sends chain e-mails to me with both of those mistakes and no matter how many times I point out that the quotes are fake, he still falls for the next one someone sends him and forwards it to everyone...

And there are some youtube videos on how to take those chinese problematic bead rollers and beef them up so they actually work well. Just checked the original photo and it's not a standard bead-roller type of job--rolled wire edge. That's a different animal.

The tool you (most people, even experienced) really need is wallet adjustment. When diving in there are a few money mistakes that people often make. 1) Buy what you NEED, not what you want when starting. As you get more experience you will have a far better grasp on what you "want" and will still have the money to do it. 2) There is no such thing as a deal you can't pass on. Even things you need should be passed on if the deal isn't reasonable. Some sellers think an old set of "antique" tongs for example are worth big bucks and that is the kind of thing to pass on--no matter how much they say "Buy me!!!" That grinder might look really appealing on craigslist but if the price isn't right, there will always be another that comes along. 3) Buy smart. Spending a bit more to get a quality tool is generally a FAR better value than getting the cheap chinese version that seems appealing for the price. Good tools last a lifetime. There are some exceptions but always keep the long-term value in mind. Good tools are also re-sellable where chinese junker tools are scrap metal. Consider resale value on the more expensive stuff--if a tool retains sale value it is actually much cheaper than it looks on the purchase end. 4) With drill bits, abrasives, files, and similar ALWAYS get the good industrial brands and not the brands generally offered at the local home center The difference between a sanding belt from home depot (even with a big name brand on it like Porter Cable) and one from an industrial maker like Klingspor is night and day. Same with good drill bits from a place that caters to machinists vs the ones at the home center. Sometimes the better stuff is actually CHEAPER than the home center version--certain types of drill bits for example. 5) If you have people who give you gifts, be sure you are specific if you casually mention wanting/needing something. People like to help/gift (sometime as a surprise) but don't really understand the difference between things like a 16 gauge 100 foot extension cord and the 12 gauge version you actually needed. Sounds weirdly greedy but you don't want to waste their money and effort any more than you want to waste yours. This used to happen a lot when my Father was alive--that's why I am a bit sensitive to it. There is probably more money advice but I've ranted enough.

I second the worries about tractor weight. Your tractor should have a rating for maximum loading at the 3 pt hitch and it wouldn't take much math to use the load rating at the hitch point, the distance from the rear wheel center and the total distance you want to hang your weight to see if you could even come close. Remember to include the estimated weight of the A frame as well as a safety factor to allow for inertia and other stuff that appears as more weight. Plus any slight side to side tractor tilt is going to put your 2 ton load near (past!) the side centers of gravity and might be risky in terms of side tilt. I wouldn't go near anything but perfectly flat ground with a heavy weight. Since that tractor already has a high center of gravity, it wouldn't take too much tilt to take it over: Unless you have doubles or triples on the back to widen it out. The way it's shown, you'd need a good 2 tons of suitcase weights on the front just to not end up as a funny youtube video. The front axel might not be able to handle that let alone the framework of the tractor when you have another 2 tons hanging off the back.

The section on designs/features to compensate for shrinkage problems/weak transitions is something everyone who deals with metals should read and understand. Most of the same rules also applies to plastics injection molding. You may not have to directly deal with designing a cast piece and how to minimize sink, cracking, distortion, etc but the same general principals apply to many other types of metal fabrication including forgings and fabrications. And...once you understand aspects of shrinkage you'll start driving everyone crazy by examining all those injection molded pieces that you run across to see how the designer made his compensations. People will start to think you have a screw loose but it'll just be an interesting puzzle that they don't understand.

Do a google image search for "ergonomic hammer handle". There seem to be quite a few variations and it might give you some inspiration. There are even some ball-pein hammers with super short handles...Is stubby-short somehow better than just choking up on a longer handle which gives you more holding options? Reality is, what people like will be as varied as the number of people you ask. For instance, large diameter handles now inflame my thumb arthritis whereas I used to prefer them. If they are for your use, experiment--and once you find what works best for you it'll be solved. There might be a few misses on the way to a home run but each miss brings you a step closer. The trend seems to be hammers with a bow in the handle so it looks sort of like this. Never used one so can't say if it's a nightmare. Seems to me that every time you changed hammers the handle would change and that'd end up throwing you off in use whereas a straight handle is essentially the same in your hand from tack-hammer to sledge.

Thanks...while searching the Clontz grinder I came across this page http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCKnifeMakingGrinders.htm which has a dozen grinder designs with comments on features. Good reading. Just wondering what people might feel their biggest shortcoming of their current grinders might be or what they would put on their grinder feature "wish list". Mine is simply too small as the low end 1" wide. I'd go 2" if I were buying/building again.

I'm late to the party and didn't take the time to read everything but wanted to respon to the original question of copying. There are two "stealable" items---a design and an idea. Ideas are technology and unless patented, they are meant to be shared (in principal) as they enhance the *field* they are used in. Designs are art and art should never be copied/stolen. your art might look similar but unless it's a paint by numbers kit, you just don't play copycat intentionally.

ball mill of some sort? Since the trunnion shown has bolts that imply some sort of flange could be mounted it seems that the whole thing is designed to fully rotate under power. Put in a good sized ball, trickle some slurry in one side while rotating and have the crushed goods come out the other.

forbidden bug work around test failed

That sounds like an excellent idea. Since new shaft would be used, the rams that get salvaged could be of any length as long as the shaft diameter matched. Those should be a dime a dozen in any farm town with equipment take-offs. I don't think the old seals/guides would stand up to the number of cycles and potential side thrusts but at junk-store prices, it seems like it'd be worth a shot (with a back up plan if it fails)

They do make double ended cylinders to "skip the middleman" of what it appears you are doing by welding cylinders end to end. They are not uncommon...just harder to find. I most commonly see them in lumber mills. Just last week I saw at least a dozen appropriate ones at the auction of a limber mill equipment supplier. Would be far better than the hassles of welding....assuming I am understanding what you propose.

Forbidden bug will probably bite again but the original question teeters on an actual machining term that hasn't been clarified--"hard milling/drilling". In machining terms, that is not about harder metals in general but specifically about milling things that have already been heat treated or are super hard to begin with. If that's what the O.P. means, it requires very specific and complicated answers---cobalt bits would be at the bottom end of hard drilling and not usually used. You start to get into things like polycrystalline diamond tips and such when machining truly hardened stuff. I have to assume the O.P. simply means drilling the harder end of the generally soft metals...annealed high carbon and such. Cobalt is probably the material of choice for the average user as it's still affordable and doesn't snap like carbide if you twitch. I'd personally buy a full set of high speed steel bits in a drill index for 90% of drilling needs. Not the home center junk but a set from a true machinist supplier. Then I'd fill in as needed with specific cobalt bits---again, the good stuff and not home center. If one can do a rigid set up and the holes are small (like rivet sized), solid carbide is often worth it. Good quality bits are an order of magnitude better than the home center stuff. Similar is true with taps and dies as well as sandpaper/abrasives. Home centers cater to price and people who will never know the difference. Fancy coatings are not usually beneficial except in high production situations. Home center coatings are mostly just pretty colors to sell bits. China mart drill bit coatings are about as useful as paint. Keep your metalworking bits separate from wood use. Get a separate set of brad-point bits for your woodworking...plus a few forstner bits for the large holes. Also have a pile of worse bits around in case someone decides to borrow from you..never loan your good bits.

Forbidden bug

It might push 2 bucks a pound here *if* someone were a little desperate to get their hands on an anvil in short order. Finding that person would take a while. If I was trying to move it, I'd likely list it at about $ 150 and take about $ 125. That'd have it sold (here) in a few days. With the defects and weight you are starting to compete with the chinese cast import "beater blocks" and people who just want to test the waters of smithing. But...as others have said YMMV. Location Location Location.

Actually kinda funny because the tractor and front end loader was the first thing I thought of...before reading your post. I'd be S.O.L. without it and was hesitant to throw the money at it in the first place. Metalworking related I'd have to say a decent wire-feed welder. Good welder vs cheap welder is like night and day difference and is a pleasure to use.

On the other side of Idaho....that $ 100 bucks is a bit high for a vice in that poor condition. If you can wait and are willing to keep your eyes open, you'll trip over another quite soon. They are not too uncommon throughout most of Idaho.

What's your goal in using the urethane? You might get away with it using the special bandsaw tire adhesive and doing a scarf joint. I wouldn't bet the farm on it due to the greater heat involved in sanding but if you decide to take a shot, that's the way I'd go. When it's all said and done, it's likely cheaper to see out the proper wheel replacement.

Even new harrow discs don't seem to be very expensive (import). Handy shape to have in an arsenal of parts and pieces. 20" x 5mm thick runs about 19 bucks. I remember seeing one as a forge pot once but never looked into whether that was practical. http://www.agrisupply.com/plain-disc-harrow-blades/c/4500011/

After seeing the simpler design of the Kinyon style power hammer, using them as power hammer dies was on my list as a possibility. That style of hammer is quite doable for my fab shop vs some of the other designs. Thanks to all for ideas. Until I actually decide and do something (and get off my lazy backside), the blanks are just boat anchors so any suggestion helps.