Kozzy

Why blacksmith? Same reason you don't eat every meal out at a restaurant or from a can. There is joy in creating. Someone who doesn't recognize that is truly the mindless drone of science fiction lore.

Now you have a new quest when dumpster diving, swap meeting, and antiquing---finding twist drills with square shanks to match the socket. I assume there was some sort of adapter to round shank drills available but where's the fun in that?

Doesn't make sense. Listed as a 4 way 3 position so it shouldn't be for single acting cylinders. http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/valves/ValvesLsRD25.pdf. Might be fancier than you need because there is a high speed mode. I suspect that the person in question didn't know how to hook it up. If you look at the bottom of the page it will confirm (for your peace of mind) that a 4 way spool is for double acting cylinders.

"ratchet drill" Those holes in the extension should be for a pin to turn the "feed screw" portion which should extend.Might be long jammed but a good soaking will probably allow it to move again.

Yes, that's a cost I'll have to pay in my case. The enclosed shop is to one side of the barn (12 foot sidewalls) and the barn peak sits at about 20 feet so there is no way to get a chimney in a good position without a loong run. Everything will be a compromise. Doesn't help me that the side I am dealing with is the primarily windward side of the barn in a fairly breezy area either. Mostly curious about how significantly a horizontal (or probably more like 15 degree slope from horizontal) tends to diminish draw in a chimney. Obviously it's better to avoid such things but the question has come up generically several times without much of an answer. Curious if anyone had good or bad results when they did their own "experiment" that incorporated a significant horizontal run.

You were quite clear about "Your mileage may vary" so I'll try and ask this in a generic way-- How badly do horizontal/near horizontal portions of the run diminish draft in real world applications? I have an existing hole in the sidewall of the barn from an old wood stove that I'd prefer to expand and use rather than going through the huge hassle of going straight through the 12' high ceiling of the shop and then penetrating the roof of the barn (bad place to access). That would require a horizontal or sloped run that would probably add up to about 50% of the total flu length. I can experiment (and probably will) but if horizontals significantly choke off draw, it might be just throwing away time and money to do that. Since I've not run a chimney before, it'd be nice to hear an opinion/example of whether 4 to 6 feet of horizontal is a losing proposition or little problem at all.

I was doing a web search to see what the world had to say about forging cobalt and ran across a youtube video regarding cobalt/damascus that was about the showiest knife I had ever seen. Lots of color, especially purple. Not sure if it has anything to do with forging actual cobalt or if they chucked in the word "cobalt" for other reasons. The photo doesn't do it justice so you might want to search for the video. I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on getting that kind of color in a damascus stack or as it appears in the handle and school me a bit on what might have been used. Yes, it's a bit of a thread hijack but if throwing cobalt in the stack gets you this, I think people might want to know more about the cobalt forging issue.

There is something called the "Janka hardness test" for woods---they press a steel ball into it and measure the force required. Here is a list of many woods and their Janka hardness rating. Ironwood comes in at 2200. The hardest I remember cutting is black locust which comes in at 1700 and it definitely was causing some sparks off the saw chain. Saw-chain life was awful when I had to cut up that tree and the stuff was a back-breaker to move. Took a loooong time to burn out the stump, even after it had dried for a year. Those guys deforesting the really hard stuff in South America must really be earning their pay. http://ejmas.com/tin/2009tin/tinart_goldstein_0904.html

The originals were machined---rod end tapered on lathe, flat machined in for the point, groove cut with a ball end mill, and what people may not have noticed (until you blow it up to full size) is the series of holes down the handle drilled through in-line for the lacing. All of that can be emulated in a forging---but---you need to clarify the customers expectations. I personally would do an upgraded "forge" version that emphasizes the fact that it was hand forged rather than machined. For example, hot-punching of the handle holes will distort the perfectly cylindrical handle unlike the drilled version and the emphasis of that could be a "feature" or improvement. However, your customer might have the perfection of the machined version in his head instead so might not like that "feature". If the customer wants an exact match, it's either machine time or a whole lot of fiddly dinking and filing to hide the forged nature (heck no!...I'd pass in that case)

Heh. Sorry if it seemed condescending but most people who ask about such things haven't even thought out the most basic of details involved. I had a nice piece of 14 gauge romex hanging in the air at about 6' (and eaten by birds) from my barn to the old garage, split into effectively 3 circuits and then to a second old garage and connected to cotton-wrapped wire that had been well mouse chewed for another so I'm a little touchy on the subject of shortcuts. There are tables online to give you the minimum wire gauges to carry a specified maximum amperage so it shouldn't be too hard for you to at least get an idea of what you'd need--for rough budgeting. Do a google search and show images of "wire gauge amperage" to see many. Remember that AL wire that is usually used for overheads will be different than copper (and introduce other complications).

Just to bring up a few issues involved, you biggest is probably going to be height clearance. It's not as simple as one height--there is a different height limitation for pedestrian traffic vs roadways vs driveways and you'll likely have to install a center support or the line sag at 60' will put you into some troubles. There are also special clearances required if you pass over a roof overhang or deck on the route--even a window/door near the line (such as on the barn side by the drop) changes required clearances. Then you have the issue of wire size/voltage drop which is not that big a deal--you will need to specify how many amps you want to draw as a worst case. If it's going to have more than a single circuit, you are talking about sub panels which further complicates things. If you need a sub panel, you get into the issue of separate grounding and bonding in the coop. If it was mine, I'd go underground. I don't have to dig your trench, though. Further, If it was mine and I only needed a single circuit worth of power for lighting or small tools, I'd probably just run an extension cord when needed and roll it up when not. In short, avoid an electrician by avoiding the whole mess in the first place (kiss solution). If you really have your heart set on the thing, there are enough "gotcha" requirements that you really should go with a proper SKILLED (yes, there are electrician hacks out there) electrician--in which case it's best not to cut corners on the job scope: The "you might as well" issue means it'll probably be a better value to go whole hog with a good sub panel system.

The current USA IRS mileage deduction for business use of vehicles is $ .54 per mile. I have run the numbers for our business vehicles including all costs and it actually comes out pretty close to what the IRS calculated when you include every cost involved. Insurance, maintenance, repair, depreciation, fuel etc. I only bring this up because people often way underestimate what it costs to run a vehicle to chase odds and ends--if you use the seemingly high IRS figure when planning, it might affect decisions (like the 500 mile trip to pick up that $ 50 organ-grinder blower you have your heart set on).

50 is over-kill for operation. Probably 200 is plenty..but... Since you want to ramp up speeds from start-up (soft start) or a smooth transition when changing speeds, that is the reason to go with a higher resolution. WIth 8 bits on the DAC you'll transition by about 26 FPM... Guessing that some people will chime in that the whole prospect is complicating things more than they need to be but sometimes it's about doing a fun project, not the realities of actual use. Arduino based?

I'd be happier with a 3 in that price rather than a 4 but it's in the right range assuming nothing is beat up. If you are not pressed for time, you can probably save some money waiting for the right one to fall in your lap. Good price for machine..about 2500-3000 (if in middlin condition). DRO adds about $ 500. Kurt vice (CHECK BRAND!) adds another 200 or so. Power feed another 100 assuming it can be fixed. That's all bottom end of pricing as in what a good deal would probably be (in my area) based on what you could probably re-sell the parts for. Of course I haven't seen it and am just guesstimating based on similar prices from auctions. Of late, auction pricing has seemed to be up 20-25% so I might be running a bit low.

Just a passing thought without checking into the messy details--I see that one can buy an electric hydraulic log splitter for $ 249 from Northern tool: Wondering if construction is such that it'd be a source to pirate all the necessary parts from.

There has been some discussion in other threads regarding flame location in a gas forge--with implication that coming up from the bottom would be the ideal location if possible. That got me thinking about the old Johnson forge that I was going to "fix up". My Johnson has 4 tuyeres, 3 of which can be shut off. I need to re-do the refractory as well as the hearth fire bricks. The gas is blown--being injected prior to hitting the fan impellers. I was pondering if (to save gas and get better heat) I could convert this to a more conventional bottom-blown gas forge. Using only a single tuyere, possibly converting the outlet to a ribbon burner--it seems possible. Sorry the drawing is rough but hopefully it will elaborate on what I am thinking. On the left is the current set-up where the tuyere basically blows into a "trench" where the flame impinges on the opposite wall. The drawing on the right is the modified version. By blocking off the trench to about a foot long with removable fire brick, inserting a deflector for the gas and partially covering the trench with a kiln shelf (and support for that)--then adding a standard mailbox-shaped enclosure roughly 12-14 inches long --it seems I get the bottom blown more-conventional gas forge. Far more suitable for normal use. Drawing is a cross-section in case that's not clear Thoughts? Happy to clarify if the drawing is too rough to understand.

I second the used Bridgeport. Assuming the machine wasn't abused, it's still better in many ways than new import. In Seattle, there is a 2 hp AND a 1hp up for auction this Friday--yes, I know that you are not in Seattle but the reference was to show that they are not uncommon so you CAN find them if you are patient. With some searching you can come up with other quality machines that are similar to the Bridgeport--Deckel has a smaller combo horizontal/vertical which is a NICE machine and tend to be within but at the top of your price range. I'd take the Deckel any day over the Bridgeport but they're a bit harder to find. But...Grizzly machines are passable for "maintenance" machining so if you really want one you won't be hammered too badly. One thing you have to watch is Quill travel--some of those are VERY short on quill travel and that can be a problem requiring reset of the knee which joggles the part and reduces accuracy. Short quill travel makes deep drilling almost impossible on some of those machines. DO NOT be tempted by the Mill/Drills which do neither particularly well.

I haven't done a show booth like that but I have done similar so here's a few tips. Dress just a hair better than the customers will tend to--not over-dressed but not such that anyone notices you are under-dressed. Remember this is selling and YOUR impression is as important as the stuff on sale. You need to appear professional so you don't come off as a glorified junk dealer. Liquids to drink--you'll need it. Be sure to scope out where the restrooms are so you can make a quick trip if needed without seeming to abandon your booth. Keep well hydrated. Stool or drafting-height chair if possible. You can't stand all day and with a taller chair you don't give the impression you are "taking a break". Stool, although it'll wear out your back, makes you sit up straighter. Something to keep your hands busy--preferably something like a drawing pad for design (clean work), That way you can sketch something for a customer who wants "custom" and look attentive/busy during slow times. Customers almost ALWAYS come in clumps with dead air between. Other work is great (especially show) but you don't want to get grubby. If there will be someone else to cover for you, be sure to take breaks...booth watching is tedious and tiring unless you get a break. You want to keep this fun, not torture. EYE CONTACT! FRIENDLY! Also helps if you can thrill the kids with something (like a tiny freebie) as that catches the parents and their wallets. Little worm made from a nail for example. Not for every kid but for catching those who's family has started nibbling at the lure. Chick stuff (like horseshoe hearts) ...men tend to follow their female companions rather than the other way around. Give the females a reason to look more closely and the family will follow. Energy boosting snack/caffeine. Most people get the energy loss about 3 pm and you'll need a boost to keep it up to the finish line. "Sell the sizzle, not the steak". People buy stuff not based on features but based on emotion. If you are talking with customers, use emotion words and not feature words. "You can hang hats on this hook" WON"T sell: "This would look cute on the wall of your house" will. If you sell necklace pieces like a cross, have a mirror hanging and point it out so people can see themselves (this is not about actually seeing how it looks but the emotions involved) Attention grabber. If you have a glorious piece, put it in plain sight. Otherwise invent something which catches jaded passers. This may be something as simple as wearing a top hat or a big stuffed teddy bear holding your product...just something different to break the hypnotism that comes from shopping booth after booth after booth. Watch, listen, and learn. Big corps have whole departments involved with consumer research...and you have to be yours. Even failures are learning experiences. HAVE FUN. If you aren't, the customers will "feel" the vibe. Don't let some nasty customer shake your positive attitude: There are always a jerk or three and just let it roll off your back ("I could make that 1/10th the cost...what a rip-off!" Put people on your mailing list if there is any way to do so---and do a quarterly newsletter if possible. This might be beyond what a "first timer" can get done but would pay off in the long run if you can start building a customer database and keeping contact. In sales, a second bite at the apple can really pay off so a mailing with photos/prices around holidays to catch the ones that got away is worth it. That's a few of my ideas..but the list is book length. Read up on sales technique if you can find a good book because there really is more to the whole thing than just "selling".

I won't copy the photo again but you have some great toys--which got me thinking about what you can't live without. That's a bit hard to answer so I'll reverse it: If you HAD to make some room, what would you live without? Something that you thought you'd use but collects more dust than other tools? Oh..and is that ball anvil a big steel sphere?

Looks like a winner there on the scraper thingamajig. An image search shows several that are similar although it appears most have different "handle" so that you can use a shoulder or other body part to get the large pressures needed. For paring the hoof surface flat.

I was bouncing around a sale site and among other items, The seller was including the tongs and some sort of scraper shown at the right of the photo. The tongs didn't seem smith related (unless a helper uses them) but I was wondering of someone recognized the use they were actually designed for (just curious). The "scraper" seems a bit job-specific also so if you recognize that, I wouldn't mind learning the original use also. Yes, I know it's a long-shot. Thanks

I ran some VERY rough numbers yesterday but got nailed by the disappearing post thing. With some wild assumptions such as needing the full 90 PSI for a stroke and trying to make 2 strokes a second, you'd suck up about 20 CFM. Most 5 hp wouldn't quite keep up if it was used continuously....but no hammer is. In the real world, you have to re-heat material so a 5 hp would likely be able to catch up with no problems at all. Go with 2 stage, single phase. They are much more desirable for re-sale so are essentially "free" except tying up your money for a while. 5 HP sells easier than 7.5. 2 stage and cranking it up to about 175 PSI in the tank effectively makes it nearly twice the volume of the single stage at 90. The ability to get some extra pressure out the line can also help with things like sandblasting. My new Quincy is remarkably quiet and it's such a joy to *not* hear that I wish I had sold one of the kids and bought it sooner.

You didn't mention budget or if there was a specific process you intended to focus on--Shear? Punch? Form? The reason I bring it up is that sometimes it's cheaper/better to get task specific machines rather than a "jack of all trades, master of none" machine. If you will use it 90% for punching, you might actually save money looking at a dedicated punch and sticking with more conventional cutting and forming methods, for instance. Budget-wise, you need to consider re-sale value also. Some machines are basically "free" because they won't lose much value over time. From the auctions I follow, it seems (personal opinion) that the Piranha machines tend to garner slightly bigger bucks. Edwards machines bring some reasonable money but people don't seem as quick to wmpty their wallets on the used ones. That's completely subjective opinion and YMMV.

Excellent video...and thanks for going into some of the pesky details like air usage. Every time I see one of these it gets me thinking of what guarding would be required in a modern commercial environment. With our punching presses, the "powers that be" wanted things like 2 handed trigger so both hands had to be on a "button" to trigger the press...and requested light curtains and other stuff. That kind of modern contrivance would make a forging hammer like this impossible. Anyone ever had OSHA or whatever equivalent authority in their neck of the woods try and force guarding be installed? If so, what contraptions did they try and force on the situation? Technically, OSHA requires foot actuators to have a top guard so they can't accidentally be triggered, by dropping heavy stock on them for example. Probably MORE dangerous in a case like a power hammer unless very carefully implemented.