stevomiller

Ranchmanben, good tip. I’m guessing TP’s thought is the exhaust could reduce available oxygen feeding your burners, changing the fuel/air ratio and thus flame characteristics. Your forge good run rich and create more carbon monoxide, etc. BUT I am guessing and don’t intend to speak for him..

Kevin Cashen and Achim Wirtz, as well as Verhoeven are good gents to research as well if you want to learn the best methods of getting the most out of creating high performance tools, via all angles of heat treating. They have much work aimed at highest performance vs what’s best economically for large industry, or for large dies and molds vs something the size of a knife or hand plane blade. Additionally subzero using dry ice and cry do two different things to tool steels, subzero gives you greater transformation of retained austinite to martensite, cry temps can create additional carbide nucleation site.

Wow guys, Please excuse my previous kurt reply that did leave out plenty of pertinent information, I’m laid upon the couch full of meds because I am the owner of a back full of titanium. I don’t mind being taken to task, I should be, so let’s get that out of the way. But the holier than tho and assumptions you made about me and the ragdolling is uncalled for. Ive been part of this site for eight years, cut me some slack. And I don’t need a heybe kind by ignoring the ignorant fool at your door you wouldn’t want to talk to. I’m both a hobby knifemaker, hobby smith, and mechanical engineer by trade,:of course martensitic stainless can be heat treated to make springs. The reality in consumer goods industry industry, tho, is almost all coil an flexure SS springs are made of austenitic SS thats been work hardened. If you invert my two sentences and put the “most are made of 302” (and I mean springs like in a headset, or other basic consumer goods not tools or leaf and flexures springs in knives, etc) my point would get across. So yes, as I typed it you all are gloriously correct. However, none in you infinite wisdom picked up that at least I did mention the an austenitic stainless. So, yep, 400; 410, 416 And 420 as well as precipitation hardening stainless can be used as a spring. Again my words didn’t come out right and kindly calling me out would be reasonabl, at least Steve Sells asked for an explanation. However I’d wager a bet that as a mfg engineer I’ve specified more SS springs than the the rest of you poking me in the eye put together.

Yes! I’d vote his next pattern in general (not just the 1500lb leviathan) be Southern German, shelf, upset block, with the hardy hole on the round horn end. Of current makers only Refflighaus makes one, the Rat Hole is a beauty but the hor and it’s transition into the body are NOT South German. I could swing buying a 250lb Holland at some point but will need to leave that big boy 1.5 tonner for someone else!

If they used SS, instead of plated carbon steel, you can’t HT it to make a spring. Generally they use 302 SS and it is work hardened as others here have encouraged you to do.

Sorry for being unclear. Yes you interpreted my monkey speak as I intended. Imagine the bevels of each ports long sides paralleling eatch other, and being tangential to the tube. Thanks for reinforcing my thought that the distal portions would have the greatest impact. Perhaps adding a small lip would aid things, shaped like the small blades of a squirrel cage blower wheel.

On three slots, would it increase air swirl if you did the following: Chisel grind left vertical edge of each slot with flat facing the OD of the tube, and chisel grind the right vertical edge with the flat facing the ID of the tube? Seems it would. I think I will make two identical burners except for that and see. Might be awhile tho, threw my back out this weekend, and after 3 surgeries and 15 procedures it could last two days or two months.

Foundryguy, NVM about thickness, I just saw it on your “Holland Anvils” Facebook page, 3” thick. And the shipped price is quite good for a 50lb block. Whoops, thanks for the answer we posted at the same time. And you are right about the H13, if folks want it and will pay for it, make it! Craziest question ever: Ever considered if this anvil venture goes well, try a ductile (or mild steel) bodied anvil with a heavy H13 face? A modern Fisher so to speak? If the numbers sold aren’t there it wouldn’t warrant the investment in time to get it right, but it might allow two things: slightly lower price and quieter anvil. And like I said, crazy thought, but I am crazy so it comes easy.

Frosty I like your idea. Replace the one edge with the French curl cut out with another angle of “V” , having all three angles AND the semi-circles that are there would be useful. Agree ductile iron is plenty good. You are welcome sir! What is the thickness on this block?

That is a really nice clean casting, big enough to do some real work, small enough to move around for hobby smiths or guys that need to travel with it for demos. thanks again for taking on these projects and offering ‘smiths another source of quality, American made tools. I hope that your entrepreneurial endeavors not only satisfy your need to be creative but also reward you financially. Steve

I don’t know but did find this thread: Click here A google search turned up other posts here and other forums concerning anvils with 6 point star in circle logo.

I can honestly say this, if I was starting new with NOTHING. I’d actually pay MORE for a good 5-6” post vise than an anvil. Once you actually learn to blacksmith you also might learn you want a particular pattern or features that meet YOUR needs and manner of working. I learned 20 years later that a makeshift anvil can work fine to actually great. Having no vise sucks, and even a big machinists vise is hopeless for beating on, a sturdy post vise makes real work possible. YMMV, and two cents from a guy who’s been accused of having no sense.

Additionally, you need about 75-100 ABOVE when it first is non-magnetic

Sorry about that admins, I didn’t realize that my link was to the distributors site. AZOM carries a lot of articles for different engineering and mfg practices from experts in various fields. I knew that the mfg or one of their distributors/applicators had written the article, but didn’t think it was an issue since it was on AZOMS site and not said distributors. I will be more careful. I believe I have found two papers that were presented at a combustion engineering symposium, and on a university’s site, but the papers only cover this product vs uncoated furnaces and ovens, no competitors’ products evaluated. Does this qualify as acceptable or not, I truly want to follow the rules.

Interesting info on materials, and how previous materials used break down. Mentions the new stuff is made of borides as opposed to zirconium etc. Linked article instead of rehashing and possible misquoting. [commercial link removed] As interesting and potentially useful as this information may be, the Terms of Service for IFI prohibit linking to commercial websites. If you can find a third-party article that covers the same material (say, a comparison in an industry publication between these products and older versions), that would be appropriate and acceptable.

Jymm, have you ever considered a version with the South German transition betwixt the horn and face/body? Love the patterns you’ve done thus far! Steve

Ted I like your gas mixer and the drilling approach as an option. Did you have a backer behind the refractory when it chipped/spalled as the bit exited? If so was it similar in consistency to the material being drilled? Trying to work thru in my mind if that could be controlled/eliminated. Best Steve

Frosty and Dungeon, I looked up the 14T tip, it is a Tapered #14 Tweco. Factory manual states that it is a standard UNF 1/4-28 thread, so I’m not sure why a schedule 80 1/8” pipes ID is too large to tap. Is it possible you got 11 T tips accidentally?They are 6mm which IS smaller, or that your pipe is actually schedule 40? Best Steve

Hi Greg thx for shipping info, that’s very reasonable, and I didn’t realize Neal wasn’t doing those concerts anymore, seems like I heard adverts for them not long ago. As to the stage block looks good. I have a 30-40lb one with similar layout, and I’m sure it’s ductile iron. I’m just guessing but as long as these things have been cast and not forged to shape I’m betting they were some type of cast iron and not steel.

Definitely schritte, shaku, or perhaps cubits? Shawn, folks are asking for a unit of measure, not just the quantity of said units nor just the shape of the stock you want to hold.

My prayers for your family, I hope that as your family continues to rebuild their lives that comfort and joy finds it’s way back. I can not even imagine facing such a tragedy. All my best, Steve

Especially in a hobby shop I think a good hand crank blower rules. As stated if you burn anthracite or hard coke, an electric blower and deeper fire pot are in order.

Moto, one benefit would be that you can include feature in a blown burner that will force the gas to mix in ways not easily or practically done in a naturally aspirated burner. Additionally, if the blower is a high pressure type, you can potentially have forge with smaller exhaust openings without effecting the air to fuel ratio as much: same amount of backpressure could cause issues to an NA. I think it just depends what you need to do, or what work arounds fit your st up, since they both have pros and cons.

They are indeed technically called center drills, but as stated above they make a great spot drill. As a matter of fact, I’ve heard mill operators (as opposed to lathe operators or full blown machinists) call them “ Spot Drills”.

TP, I love all three of Jymms patterns, except the lack of that South German fillet transition between the horn and face of his two continental patterns. I think his colonial is probably the stoutest 110 anvil you could design while still including a horn and thru hardy hole (as opposed to the L shaped French hardy hole). Anyways, H13 is really tough shock resistant steel. Withought using maraging or PM materials perhaps only S2or S5 beats it at mid 50’s hardness. It’s pricey tho as you know, seems 9250 would would be an awesome steel that’s readily available if one wasn’t specifically looking for an air hardening alloy. It seems that the economy for some of these makers comes from using materials already being poured in large qty for other projects in either their shop or their subcontractors..