stevomiller

Sorry my profile was incomplete, I just updated it.

When computing air cylinder "power" remember that in one direction it will be less due to the area taken up by the operating/cylinder rod. This must be subtracted from the total area. Secondly, there is seal stiction to varying degrees, can be as high as ten percent. Never built a hammer, but used to be an equipment engineer. Now I'm just a retard home on disability. Have fun. Stevo

I have had good luck soaking them in diesel oil for a few weeks to loosen stuff up. The bushings/bearings are probably still gunked up and the new oil hasn't penetrated to them. I would also try the ATF route to see what happens.

When I was about 15 and just starting to play with hot metal I did a good one. I was setting up to finish annealing a knife made of a file; it was red hot and I dropped it. Out of pure reaction I snatched it out of the air. My fingers stuck to the blade, and the air filled with that wonderful aroma. Funniest bad burn, not smithing related? I burned my xxx on the wall heater trying to warm up after getting out of the shower. Made a two inch checkerboard blister on me, and a scar that I carry twenty years later.

They are both air hardening steels, no dunk needed. ;)

evfreek, which farm if you don't mind me asking? Back in the late '80s I lived in the Fremont CA and used to volunteer at Ardenwood Farm. Their resident smith was a man by the name of Jack Ladd, and I would strike for him. In return he let me use his equipment for my own projects such as knives and such. Small world we live in, eh? BTW, don't worry about what the other smiths are saying. If you feel good about your arrangement, your intentions are good, and you are helping the farm stay above water, that's what matters. Stevo

This is one of my anvils. 150lb, made in Oakland, California who knows when. Hope to get my shop back together soon ;-(

I don't know for sure what the jackhammer bits I used were made of. I do know that they were definitely more redhard than 10XX. S1 or S5 was simply a guess based on charts I had seen. Regardless, brought them to critical as judged with a magnet and oil quenched. Drew the temper on the edge to a brown and called it good. Might not have been optimal but was free and worked well for me:D

Those are nice! I made a few straight hardies in the past from jackhammer bits. If you go to a place that rents jackhammers they will sometimes have broken ones ~ that's how I got mine (free!). I think that they are made out of S2 or S5 steel, if that helps anyone with the heat treat. Steve

Beyond my skill level. However, I think you should take the one that you finished and make a mace head out of it.

Irnsrgn, I found a shop that will heat treat it for me for $100. I also found a guy that is willing to analyze the steel for me so that the heat treater will know what it is. Unfortunately it will take a piece of steel 1" square by .125" thick; I think that I will take it off of one of the feet. This will be a worthwhile project as it will be much cheaper than a new anvil. Thank you for your responses in the past. Also, I read a post on another forum from a guy that wanted to build up the top of his anvil with hardfacing. I know that you are very experienced at these repairs and I will recommend that he post over here. Steve

Frosty, thanks for the quick response. I will use your input to move forward with building a 3/4" "cross" burner. Steve

Mtnforge, thanks for the update. If I use the cross, I will let you guys know how it works. Also, do you think that there would be any benefit to removing the threads from the air intakes (like porting an engine head)?

Frosty, thank you for posting the info on your T burner. I am going to make one this week, but have a few questions. Can I install a choke on just one side of the T to change the amount of air feeding the flame? Also, have you tried using a cross instead of a T? I am thinking of using a cross, and installing a plug in the top. I would then drill the plug on the lathe so that a 1/8" or 1/4" npt nipple will just slide into it; I would then put set screws in to hold this nipple in place (instead of using lamprod with jam nuts). Do you think that the upper part of the cross might cause too much turbulence, since the top of a T is smooth (not interupted)? I'm not sure if I described this correctly, but I bet you understand what I'm asking. Thanks, Steve

Most old files are good quality carbon steel, W1 or W2. However, many new files from overseas are casehardened and not appropriate for tool and knife making. You can put it in your vise with a small portion hanging out and whack it with an old hammer. If it is thru hardened high carbon steel it should snap right off.

Welcome to Lazzari Alan, here is a source for your charcoal in the SF bay area; haven't bought from them in years, but it is much cheaper than at the store. Mesuite was about $11 for a 40lb bag, oak a bit more. You will get "forge fleas" with this, I guarantee:D

First anvil I had was made in china, cast steel 50kg. Looked like the worlds ugliest Peddinghaus 2 horn anvil. BUT, the sucker had a smooth face and was properly heat treated. After using it a few years, I gave it to my friend (12 years ago). It is in continuous use still, having knives, flint strikers, black powder rifle parts forged on it. Not all ASO' are total xxxx; once in a while you get lucky:)

I would set it up just like Tyler says ~ it would make a great bladesmithing anvil, or an anvil for use with a striker. All of the mass is directly under where you are hammering, and would behave like a traditional anvil weighing twice as much. Nice score. I wish that I had one!

I used to use an abrasive cutoff blade in a skillsaw to cut off sections of coil springs lickety split. As long as you don't want more than one loop at a time it works great. Then straighten it out using the methods already posted.

Alan, who is currently the smith at Ardenwood? I learned from a smith there by the name of Jack Ladd about 16 years ago, but I know that he moved up to Oregon quite a few years back. I'm glad to see that things are still going over there:) Steve

If you want to find out what a good kukri can do try either Himalayan Imports or Tora Kukri. They truly are the best of what is currently being made. HI are very tough and functional, Tora's are the more traditional of the two.

Rantalin, I was familiar with the term chirras, but not aunlo bal. Learn something new everyday! Is the term used by both the Nepalis and the Indians? Speaking of kukris, are you familiar with John Powell's collection? Adios, Steve

Did you say fullers? How about these ~

I have overhauled a smaller champion and a Buffalo 200 without trouble. If things are rusty and gummed up with old oil, soak it in diesel fuel or kerosene for a few weeks. I had to make a new mainshaft for the Buffalo, and rebush the where the shaft ran. Most of these blowers are fairly basic, and should be hard to work on if you are mechanically inclined. I used grease on the bearings and bushings, and light weight motor oil for the gears. Good luck, and have fun! BTW, the 400 is truly a nice blower. It is definitely nicer than the Buffalo 200.

I use a mix of linseed oil and beeswax, wiped on with a rag at a high black heat. Again, ventilation is your friend.