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About stevomiller

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  • Gender
  • Location
    East Bay Area, Nor Cal
  • Interests
    Smithing, knives, axes, primitive technologies


  • Location
    Tracy, California
  • Interests
    hunting, smithing, dogs
  • Occupation
    manufacturing engineer

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  1. stevomiller

    Show me your anvil

    You folks need to cut people some slack: as stated repeatedly folks come here from 150 different countries. Lars is in France (as put in his tag line as most in this thread emphatically beat a drum for), and has a Scandinavian (not French) name - my guess is that his grasp and technical use of OUR first language is far better than our GRASP of his (and I’ve studied multiple but MASTERED none). His use of peasant for a small time rural farmer isn’t an unreasonable transliteration. Additionally it is true that there were anvils of a more professional type/quality and those that were perhaps less expensive and marketed towards either smaller shops or farm use, but weren’t ASOS. Those used by many farmers were outright ABUSED because the users had very limited technical knowledge or the finer points of smithing: chipped edges, chisel gauges on the face, etc. As a community we should shoot for kindness and civility unless someone else’s forces us to act differently. Far too often members here don’t try to see other points of view, nor give others the benefit of the doubt that they might be actually not only intelligent but maybe way more knowledgeable about MANY things than is assumed. If all the above is not true, then I’m Samuel Yellin or Vulcan himself. Be blessed, Steve
  2. Nice work gentlemen! As an equipment engineer and fabricator I utilized SCR/thyristors in many of my resistive heater products (I build other stuff now). If you can find one on eBay (for cheap since new from distributors they aren’t) that meets your needs and will play with your temp controller they are great. You will get rock solid temperature control regardless of line fluctuations, etc, and they will allow your heating elements to last 3x compared to using just an SSR with normal on/off function. The SCR will clip the AC sine and can limit voltage and current, kind of like PWM does for DC, only different haha. Anyways, just throwing it out there for those of you that want to build to true industrial/mfg quality and durability. BTW Eurotherm is a good provider of 120/208 single phase units. Watching your guys’ great creations and ingenuity, Steve
  3. stevomiller

    Favorite files

    Pferd and Grobet for current manufacture. Simonds and Nicholson had great files until they switched to making in central and South America (not that they couldn’t be as good, but they evidently changed process and materials as well as labor pool.) Johnson made very good files in the USA, but they have been DOA for years, I did buy some 14” mill cut recently that were new old stock for $15 each. I’m hoarding these away! The Japanese still make files, but you will have to order online, which I plan to give a try.
  4. stevomiller

    New Creation: Critique!

    Hi Nick, What those guys said. Also can you show more pics/info on the burner you are using? thanks!
  5. stevomiller

    First forge build

    L-M&F, Knowing your jet size is only half the equation for folks to help you. Can you share the pipe size for your main burner/mixing tube, and the NPT size of the “T’s”? Both of these will influence air available and velocities etc, all of which have huge effect on how they react to different adjustments and ultimate burner performance. Thanks Steve
  6. stevomiller

    Opinions on my first forge

    First I applaud your work and get it done approach. As for the burners, I can appreciate you wanting to make them work as opposed to switching gears to a truly known good pattern. Adding the hole did improve your burner, for now anyways. I for one am concerned with how far it is from the point the gas jet enters, and that under some circumstances (forge doors closed, strong winds, etc) that excessive back pressure in the forge could allow some fuel mixture to exit said hole. If you look at burners DESIGNED with slots or holes in the tube, they are nowhere near where you have yours. Just MY thoughts, not claiming I’m right and impending doom. Folks here don’t recommend the Frosty or Mikey burners out of rabid fan boy devotion, it’s just that they work VERY well and are proven in many shops. Additionally, if you follow the patterns exactly, you probably won’t need help fixing or adjusting them. BUT IF YOU DO, then you have not only the designers here to help, but also many other members who’ve built and run the exact same burners. Best Steve
  7. stevomiller

    Getiing rid of the Dragons Breath

    Ranchmanben, good tip. I’m guessing TP’s thought is the exhaust could reduce available oxygen feeding your burners, changing the fuel/air ratio and thus flame characteristics. Your forge good run rich and create more carbon monoxide, etc. BUT I am guessing and don’t intend to speak for him..
  8. stevomiller

    Subzero quenching

    Kevin Cashen and Achim Wirtz, as well as Verhoeven are good gents to research as well if you want to learn the best methods of getting the most out of creating high performance tools, via all angles of heat treating. They have much work aimed at highest performance vs what’s best economically for large industry, or for large dies and molds vs something the size of a knife or hand plane blade. Additionally subzero using dry ice and cry do two different things to tool steels, subzero gives you greater transformation of retained austinite to martensite, cry temps can create additional carbide nucleation site.
  9. stevomiller

    Largest vintage anvil

    Yes! I’d vote his next pattern in general (not just the 1500lb leviathan) be Southern German, shelf, upset block, with the hardy hole on the round horn end. Of current makers only Refflighaus makes one, the Rat Hole is a beauty but the hor and it’s transition into the body are NOT South German. I could swing buying a 250lb Holland at some point but will need to leave that big boy 1.5 tonner for someone else!
  10. stevomiller

    One burner first forge

    Sorry for being unclear. Yes you interpreted my monkey speak as I intended. Imagine the bevels of each ports long sides paralleling eatch other, and being tangential to the tube. Thanks for reinforcing my thought that the distal portions would have the greatest impact. Perhaps adding a small lip would aid things, shaped like the small blades of a squirrel cage blower wheel.
  11. stevomiller

    One burner first forge

    On three slots, would it increase air swirl if you did the following: Chisel grind left vertical edge of each slot with flat facing the OD of the tube, and chisel grind the right vertical edge with the flat facing the ID of the tube? Seems it would. I think I will make two identical burners except for that and see. Might be awhile tho, threw my back out this weekend, and after 3 surgeries and 15 procedures it could last two days or two months.
  12. stevomiller

    Holland Anvil Swage Block 1

    Foundryguy, NVM about thickness, I just saw it on your “Holland Anvils” Facebook page, 3” thick. And the shipped price is quite good for a 50lb block. Whoops, thanks for the answer we posted at the same time. And you are right about the H13, if folks want it and will pay for it, make it! Craziest question ever: Ever considered if this anvil venture goes well, try a ductile (or mild steel) bodied anvil with a heavy H13 face? A modern Fisher so to speak? If the numbers sold aren’t there it wouldn’t warrant the investment in time to get it right, but it might allow two things: slightly lower price and quieter anvil. And like I said, crazy thought, but I am crazy so it comes easy.
  13. stevomiller

    Holland Anvil Swage Block 1

    Frosty I like your idea. Replace the one edge with the French curl cut out with another angle of “V” , having all three angles AND the semi-circles that are there would be useful. Agree ductile iron is plenty good. You are welcome sir! What is the thickness on this block?
  14. stevomiller

    Holland Anvil Swage Block 1

    That is a really nice clean casting, big enough to do some real work, small enough to move around for hobby smiths or guys that need to travel with it for demos. thanks again for taking on these projects and offering ‘smiths another source of quality, American made tools. I hope that your entrepreneurial endeavors not only satisfy your need to be creative but also reward you financially. Steve
  15. stevomiller

    First Anvil

    I don’t know but did find this thread: Click here A google search turned up other posts here and other forums concerning anvils with 6 point star in circle logo.