• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About stevomiller

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    East Bay Area, Nor Cal
  • Interests
    Smithing, knives, axes, primitive technologies


  • Location
    Tracy, California
  • Interests
    hunting, smithing, dogs
  • Occupation
    manufacturing engineer

Recent Profile Visitors

2,021 profile views
  1. Very nice work Bart, especially being your first made by hand. And, very strange hammer profile........ I’m interested to hear what they plan to use it for?
  2. stevomiller

    Subzero quenching

    Bart, thanks for posting that detail rich information. The fact it’s written for non-metallurgists is a plus.
  3. stevomiller

    How slow can she go?

    TP gives good advice for checking for imminent danger. Heat @ the motor will mean either it’s loaded to heavily (effective voltage dropped but increased current draw) or the motor isn’t cooling itself, etc. Some motors don’t do well when not run at full speed because their built in fans or other methods aren’t efficient at lower speeds. I definitely follow up with Baldor at some point tho, they’re a premium motor and cooking one would be unfortunate and costly.
  4. I agree that the face shouldn’t dent. The bearings are harder than most anvil faces, but the mass and velocity of them during impact is NOT enough to dent a properly heat treated anvil face. I dropped a one inch hardened bearing on a 4140 drop I have that’s about 35 rc, and it didn’t mar the face. The hardness of a commercial anvil should be 15 to 25 points harder than my drop, which is a substantial difference. As for the drop on the face, it’s more than I’d like but it’s similar to others I’ve seen from that maker. I hope Ridgid takes care of replacing your anvil quickly, as it appears they botched the heat treating on yours. Best Steve
  5. stevomiller

    How slow can she go?

    Sooooo, it’s not a rheostat which is a simple adjustable resistor, your control is solid state so it is a thyristor or triac or some other type of controller. As for your motor being damaged you need to look up the EXACT model number and research it. Contact Baldor even if you are concerned. That’s my advise anywho.
  6. stevomiller

    I made an integral bolster pattern-welded chef knife

    Very nice execution, I appreciate your choice of materials and letting them be the focal vs extra adornments.
  7. stevomiller

    Forges 101

    I believe he’s saying to place the burner aiming on a tangent wher the point of intersection of line and arc is at 2 o’clock. This would make the flame still shoot up towards the ceiling, and it would follow the arc around the inner wall, vs just shooting it straight across the forge or aiming it downwards towards the floor. Mikey did I understand you correct?
  8. stevomiller

    Refractory cracking problems

    Chris,not having insulation on the bottom of your forge is causing a lot of heat to be lost, a 1” hard brick is a heat sink and pulling a lot of your heat to outside the forge. If it’s insulated underneath, yes you will still have to heat that brick but the heat will stay in the forge working as thermal mass to even temps out inside. Think of this, you wouldn’t lay down on cold concrete and just put a blanket on top of you, you would still be very cold. Put a mattress and blankets under you and you conserve your heat and now you are warm. The others will explain the baffles. I’d get that in order then take a look at your burne and work to tune it up before trying any different burner.
  9. stevomiller

    Refractory cracking problems

    Is the floor of your forge insulated? As in is there ceramic wool under it, or is it just refractory or fire brick? Its difficult to tell from the pics, but it appears that it’s not?
  10. stevomiller

    Pile of bracelets

    Again try dilute FC, and a couple coats of carnuba car wax. Make sure the wax doesn’t have any polishes in it aka rubbing compound as it will take off the little etching you got. Thats a great keep sake you made her, I applaud you and the sentiment!
  11. stevomiller

    Pile of bracelets

    That’s a tough one. If all the wire are the same composition all you get is a very minor etch due to carbon loss/migration at the weld line. You might be able to sneak up on the etch using weak ferric chloride, clean off the oxides, repeat to try and get a bit of topography, that’s about the only way to get it to last. Once you can get topography you can make a concentrated coffee etch/stain, or something similar then polish the high points. Then a coat or carnuba or the clear coat to fix it. In the future try and mix alloys and carbon levels to get more variance. Nickel will stay brighter, higher carbon etch more, manganese can be darker
  12. stevomiller

    What kind of steel?

    Yes sir they’re top quality. Unbrako have an even higher tensile of 190,000psi. We used other versions of their fasteners in high stress areas of a robot we used to make years ago. They are one of the best fastener makers out there.
  13. stevomiller

    What kind of steel?

    That type of bolt from Unbrako has a material spec of 190,000 psi tensile strength, and they are heat treated to RC 38-43. With numbers like that I believe it might be 4340, or a modified version. That said, it’s very good material for tooling, it will be able to get harder than 4140 and be more impact resistant at a given hardness. Your bolt is the metric equivalent to a grade 8 bolt, made to exceed grade 8 specs. Other lesser grade 8 bolts (all grade 8 bolts are good quality) are made of 4140, 5140 and other high strength alloy steels.
  14. stevomiller

    Unique Hammer

    I think it’s a love child of a dog head hammer and an extended custom set hammer. Stuff like that happens sometimes in my shop when there isn’t proper supervision. Thats why it’s so important to constantly use your tools so they are too tired for these type of shenanigans!
  15. Very nice and interesting anvil. It appears to be a variation on the Yorkshire pattern, but I’ve never seen one with the hardy hole IN the round horn, plus the dual pritchel holes. Really cool, I’d hang onto that one forever just because of its uniqueness even if it somehow (I don’t know how) it didn’t serve my needs anymore.