rustyshackleford

melting metal in a home foundry, backyard metalcasting, metal casting That site is run by Lionel Oliver, and deals with many aspects and techniques of small-scale metal casting. I would reccommend that you look at the waste oil burner design, if you have the access to the fuel.

Might want to find a car brake drum, they are smaller and more coal-economical. The depth of a truck drum is prohibitive for functinality in a forge, unless you fill it most of the way with brick, clay, etc. @carbon question: High enough at least. Set it vertical in a 5 gal bucket of mixed concrete, and you've got a pretty stable setup

I'm with ecart in that my shop is outdoors. the other side of the forge shows some trees, then the sky, and behind me was pasture, until the county decided a pointless high school should be built there (on top of graves and bodies no less!)

You have an item (rasps), and no cash. Pawn shop will take your rasps, and loan you cash (which you have to pay back in X days, etc.). Pay the cash back within the time period, you get your rasps back. Fail to do so, and Charlie buys your rasps after Pawn Shop puts them out for sale (as they are their property now)

So convenient!....not. Boone s dry of anything that fancy:mad:, and I would just as soon not cut it, compared to just buying ...1x4" strips and doing the same. The lead I have no issue with; I'd be more concerned with the molten aspect. That being said, lead IS yucky stuff, and comments are duly noted. Markh: "the plans for the rusty hammer are for __?_ on the web" what am I missing there? I know they are available for purchase. Is this model more efficient while working than the EC-JYH? I know that the shocks on it are not the best format, but is that the only disadvantage? It might be easier to collect the parts for that style, I'm not certain yet.

Boone is not the best place to hunt for scrap, least of which for something a stout as a PH. I've reviewed a goodly number of pictures and descriptions, admire the "Appalachian Power hammer" style. Through perseverance, I feel that I will be able to acquire the right things for it, although it may take time. One of my questions to the forum is: Which is preferable for the anvil, lead filled tubing, or solid steel? Is it wise to use "free weight" plates for the anvil? There is an example on the APH gallery, although I didn't see how they were secured. Other questions will follow, I'm sure, thanks gang

Any response on my idea for a name? I had hoped it would provoke something :/ :)

I carry them in a six-board box that I posted pictures of in another thread

I plan on it Jymm, I'll look forward to it

I got a chance to go down to Blacksmith's Depot this weekend. I spoke to Steve and he showed me the models had. I admired them all greatly, and the TFS smithy specials really caught my eye. the 400 is a monster! I may just go with the 300, idk

I like it! From a technical view: Some areas of the fork show evidence of working cold, so be sure to maintain a proper heat and take your time with it. do some minor adjustments to both tines if you ust to get them looking balanced. The same goes for the arm. I like the oblong scroll, but if that wasn't what your goal was, use even force when hammering and make sure everything stays hot. That was one of my biggest issues when I started, and I see much of the same in yours. Diligence is the answer, and you've got a great start right there. Bravo

'dorable I like the fabbed anvil in the background too, nice!

to answer your questions in the order you asked them: No, it is not (because if you...) Cut a notch out of it, so that you can stock a smaller fire in it. This will reduce wear on the forge, your iron, and your fuel supply. from the inner bottom measure about 2.5" up, and make that the bottom of your notch (cut it as wide as you like, narrower if all you're making is knives). This will require an oxyfuel rig most likely, so if you don't have access, you may want to find a car brake drum, they are typically suitable right off. Best of luck!

This has been a subject under my consideration too, especially since i got a contract to do some gift shop ironwork for a state site (woo!). In that casee I had to look at the competition (places like Jas. Townsend) and price it accordingly. The profit on that is not great, but I'm not working at a loss. I do beleive that I would be better served selling the items myself. I posted a similar question a while back, and that project was a snafu. I don't beleive that I handled it accordingly, as i charged a flat fee, not an hourly rate. I got burned on that deal, but it was a learning experience, no doubt.

I've recently been toying around with the name "Kissing Turtle Forge" it would make for a cool touchmark, and the turtle motif is from the native history that i teach; the world origninated on a turtle's back, all crafts from the forge. I've yet to settle on it, but the other thing I have considered is using an alligator touchmark. I just didn't have a good name that relates, yet. Any ideas/opinions about either would be warmly received; I need to come up with something soon.

The lines on these are crisp, and your own. I admire them greatly, Good work!

It may just be ignorance, but I'm not afraid to ask: Hand hammers come with fullers on them. Pick the appropriate one (cross-straight-diagonal), and you hold a versitile tool, capable of quickly knocking down metal with some well placed swings. Despite this, there are tools of all flavors that fit into the hardy hole, etc. for fullering. My question is what is the point of having an independant fuller? I don't understand (and that may very well be from lack of experience) why it would be beneficial to have these tools on hand, since I don't feel that the same force and control would be present, with the piece slipping off the tool with every blow. The only exception in my mind would be the use of a top fuller, and a striker of some kind. Here the smith maintains control of the tool, and at teh saem time, a moving force worth being considered is being generated (by the striker). Now, this assumes that the striker is proficient at what he does, or is a machine. Having read some of the documents link to on this forum, I've become aware of smaller hand-fullers, and can see thier merit, since the user is generating that same downward force that is present with the top fuller mentioned. My apprehension may stem from improper tooling also, and I need to investigate it personally to satisfy this curiosity. What method do y'all prefer?

It can easily be found elsewhere, but i'll say it on this thread as well: Damascus shotgun barrels (like the one described in Bealer's "Art of..") are meant to ONLY be used with black powder, NO other composition. Try it, and all likelihood is that you will be all blow'd up. As a personal reference, my grandfather, a hobbyist gunsmith in his earlier years, would tell me about this happening. Note: this is my 100th post! Huzzah.

One might try attending the Dixon Gunmakers Fair in kempton, PA. Forging a gun barrel is a typical (if not annual) event for them. Dixon's Muzzleloading Shop - Home of the Gunmakers Fair

I use a rather nice affair made by Moonshine Leather, based in Ky. Adjustable neck portion, nice and supple leather, simple.

no, I wish though. Is there a financial impetus for you to be there? (outside of whatever you might sell)

five sets of swages (top and bottom) plus misc other tools, $60

I agree, I have yet to look at any of Diderot's engravings to see if the design was paralleled there or not.

The clasp knife of French North American - Manufacturing of the French clasp knife