rustyshackleford Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Boone is not the best place to hunt for scrap, least of which for something a stout as a PH. I've reviewed a goodly number of pictures and descriptions, admire the "Appalachian Power hammer" style. Through perseverance, I feel that I will be able to acquire the right things for it, although it may take time. One of my questions to the forum is: Which is preferable for the anvil, lead filled tubing, or solid steel? Is it wise to use "free weight" plates for the anvil? There is an example on the APH gallery, although I didn't see how they were secured. Other questions will follow, I'm sure, thanks gang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Avoid lead and the related hazmat (hazardous materials) issues, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Look for a sheet of 4x8ft 1" steel. Cut into strips and then weld up an anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markh Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Use solid steel if possible. The plans for the Rusty hammer are for on the web. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustyshackleford Posted November 5, 2008 Author Share Posted November 5, 2008 Look for a sheet of 4x8ft 1" steel. So convenient!....not. Boone s dry of anything that fancy:mad:, and I would just as soon not cut it, compared to just buying ...1x4" strips and doing the same. The lead I have no issue with; I'd be more concerned with the molten aspect. That being said, lead IS yucky stuff, and comments are duly noted. Markh: "the plans for the rusty hammer are for __?_ on the web" what am I missing there? I know they are available for purchase. Is this model more efficient while working than the EC-JYH? I know that the shocks on it are not the best format, but is that the only disadvantage? It might be easier to collect the parts for that style, I'm not certain yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 FERRUM D. Gentile: Krusty The 100 pound mechanical powerhammer __________________ From a previous posting, I'm just starting to try to make one based on these details, but round about the 50 pound mark from bits of metal I have lying around, The only thing none too clear is if bearing metal is required for around the sliding ram, it indicates a couple of mm clearance all round, but I think I would prefer a brass lining even with this clearance. Time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 I recommend a solid anvil, and the heavier... the better. Also, if you are going to build a mechanical, take a close look at the tire hammer. You can order plans for it, and it's probably the most efficient of the small homebuilt mechanicals... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teejay Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 For a nice small hammer about an 8lb head weight that hits like a 25lb hammer go to the blue prints BP0063. Its Jr. Strasil's baby helve hammer and it a great little machine! If you are good at finding stuff it will run you less than $400 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markh Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 Here's the link for the App Pwr Hammer.Appalachian Power Hammers--Order Plans Here's a link for the tire hammer which is a lot better in my opinion.Classifieds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted November 8, 2008 Share Posted November 8, 2008 I built a RUSTY type in 2002. I bought the plans and while they were somewhat helpfull, they are simply a hand sketch of the general idea and not a set of "Plans". I next upgraded mine to a tire clitch and 45# ram. This style hammer is only slightly harder to fab up than the baby helve. If I simply wanted to draw I would build the baby helve. If you need to use top tools and need a guided ram, the pivoting spring helve is a little more work but gains function. I think the spring helve has just as much "Snap" as the dupont style mechanism of the LG and "tire hammer". # for # I can see no difference in hit from my spring helve to a LG. For scrounging, Have a peek at my hammer across the street at Anvilfire on the powerhammer page. I used a hydraulic cylinder rear cap clevis for pivot, a scabbed together anvil and so forth. To build cheaply, one must be a scrounger, and be able to see the "re-purpose" in things one has to hand. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted November 8, 2008 Share Posted November 8, 2008 Jeff, one thing I cannot see from the pictures, but have seen in a video, is there a gap between the dies on your hammer when the eccentric is in the up position, to facilitate slap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted November 8, 2008 Share Posted November 8, 2008 I was advised against using stacked plates for my power hammer anvil but materials for a solid one were simply out of my reach at the time I wanted to build it. I used several 8" discs 1.25" thick and put them in hydraulic press and put them under pressure to weld them together. The theory was to eliminate as much bounce between the plates as possible. I think it was a success. When struck with a hammer on one end there was a definitive ring and if you place your hand on the other end, you could feel the hammer blows as if it were solid. I don't think that would be true in I hadn't put them under pressure to weld. It would have been a "dead" thud when struck. I then put a sleeve over the stack to give it a nice appearance. There is also a 5" x 5" x 10" solid block of steel on top of this to bring it to the correct height. Perhaps a solid one would have been better but this worked for me. YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted November 8, 2008 Share Posted November 8, 2008 BTW, lead even inside a tube wouldn't make a very good anvil in my opinion as there would still be a crush factor making it even deader than stacked plates that weren't welded. On the other hand, it works good for the hammer. The late Jim Paw Paw Wilson's tire hammer had just such a hammer and his worked just fine! It was a square tube filled with lead weight. Sorry if I'm coming in late on this conversation, but I've been busy lately on another none smithing project. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucegodlesky Posted November 8, 2008 Share Posted November 8, 2008 Good thinking on the welding procedure Dodge. Nice car too! That a greound up restoration? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted November 8, 2008 Share Posted November 8, 2008 (edited) Dodge... Based on your description, you have a solid anvil. I believe stacked is fine, as long as the stock is flat and you have clamped before you weld. Edited November 9, 2008 by djhammerd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted November 9, 2008 Share Posted November 9, 2008 Dodge, is that photo showing a "Tire Hammer" or did you use different plans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustyshackleford Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 okay gang, chime in on your opinion of the KA Hammer. I've been looking at it, and am interested to hear how you all have enjoyed, or not enjoyed working with one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 One or two members here have one. Starting a new thread or using the search feature may yield better information about the KA-75. I was looking at buying one real hard this spring. I'll save you some trouble and sum it up.... # 1. It's not a power hammer. Its a power striker. That means you get one hit per pedal push. # 2. Those that have one or have used one think they are great. # 3. It is air hungry. You'll need a serious air compressor to feed it for continous operation. I'm sure someone will chime in and say they ran one off a 30 gal sears unit, however waiting for a compressor to recharge is annoying. # 4. It can hit real hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 When someone is considering buying or making a power hammer, its important to consider what you are going to expect from it. If you know what you want it to do for you, as well as what your fabrication skills and interests are, there are many on this site that can give you advice. The best case would be for you to visit shops that have any hammer you are considering and get a little demo and permission to play a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesteryearforge Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 I have seen the KA hammer in action and like Chris says ( it hits hard ) but also its one hit for one push of the pedal. Dont really know about the air consumption Was really impressed at how hard that little hammer hit though. I really dont think that I would consider it for an all around do everything hammer but with the right configureation of dies it should be capable of doing a lot of work. Mike Tanner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Dodge, is that photo showing a "Tire Hammer" or did you use different plans? Its a tire hammer, but not THE tire hammer as in the Clay Spencer that most people think of. This is my version patterned loosely after a hammer that was built by Steve Barringer of Mooresville NC for the late Jim Paw Paw Wilson. The biggest difference is that I broke convention by using an "H" bean instead of square tubing for the mast. I believe its wide enough to minimized the twist one would get from an "I" beam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herman Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 So what about plans or guidelines for an air hammer.I have access to compressed air and figure that I could productively use that as a motive source.Can anybody point me in the right direction? Keep Hammerin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesteryearforge Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 Herman ABANA ( Artist blacksmith association of north america ) has the plans for airhammers Mike Tanner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogvalley Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 First and foremost is the efficiency issues that I have posted about before. Mechanical hammers are handsdown winners for energy efficiency. My 25# Fairbanks uses a 1/2 horsepower motor. My 75# helve uses a 1 hp. My Bradley 300# uses a 10hp motor. An air hammer of the same equivalent weight takes 4-5 or more times the horsepower for its air compressor and a xxxxxxxx big tank. Second, plans schmans. If there is a pic available, you can copy the design easily enough, make your own mods and its then your design. I saw a pic of a rusty style hammer years ago and there was an object in that pic that I new the size of. I measured and scaled the drawing from that. My own plans were modified as I went to accommodate the available materials at my shop and scrap yard. My mid size hammer is a 75# helve hammer, inspired by the Rusty designs, but is actually based on a hammer design that dates back possibly as far as 1000 yrs. Power hammers ain't new technology. Third, if you can build it at all, the challenge of creating it from a bar napkin sketch and modifying it as needed should not be beyond ones skills. Other wise I'd be a little nervous about making it all. Your mileage may vary, I may just be biased and grumpy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 Have pics of your hammer Mark? Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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