rustyshackleford

Welcome wampus; do everyone a favor and add your location. Go to USER CP in the green bar at the top, add, and save the info. This will help others locate more experienced smiths near you, etc.

I hate you Thomas:p And yes, I did just spend half an hour trolling government auction sites....:cool:

Wd-40, DuckTape, etc... Probably things like the angled chisel design, etc. Finding his previous threads will give you a good idea

actually, that's about an average pace. 20mins for one mile ( =3mph) (25mi/ 7hours)=3.6mph

the knee-jerk reponse is to say put it back to four slots. Then, thinking about it for another 20 seconds, I remember that the 4th slot would just be a 'holder' for whatever die is in it. I say this because no matter what you're making, you're not going to need all four tools in one heat (one of the three can be changed while material is heated). Not if you're working efficiently anyway. Would you agree with this defense of using three? It's smarter for you too since it means less dovetailing

cool stuff Demid, you should start your own thread though

YouTube - Inventive Knife grinder Found this a minute ago, if you pause it around the 2min mark you get a good idea of the parts involved. multistage pulley, wooden wheel, metal wheel-to-shaft- interface, single bearing. not sure what that metal wheel is from, but it seems a much simpler way to connect the wheel to the shaft than fabricating something

nothing new under the sun: I was just thinking this weekend about making a laminate wood wheel rather than buying one. Gotta be dang sure to align, lock down, and balance everything properly though. Shouldn't be too hard

Grant, you should take a look at this user's gallery. Don't know if he's still posting on here or not though, but good similar ideas to yours: Fionnbharr (finn:-) Gallery - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

Ya beat me to it. All I know is that he died in his sleep. I don't believe it was expected.

use it but look for another one to replace it. You've got an artifact on your hands; be gentle.

He is, I've got one just like it

coleman lantern lamp sack also contain Thorium, FWIW

it's used in rasps to make the teeth, as opposed to a chisel it's more of a beveled punch (like your idea)

How does one make one? Brass is my medium, but I can't understand how folks but the impressions in them. I'm sure it's similar to file stitching....

sweeet. I wanna go to the ramp festival in WVA. cherokee's (me) made the whole town eat them together so that no one could be offended by the smell

whereabouts? (go to the CP and update your location) I'm in Boone.

it's acidic foods that remove the verdigris (green oxide) that is the nasty part. Look up Nathaniel Trotter in Coatsville, PA. They sell anode grade tin and you can use that with some rosin as a flux to re-tin your copper. this is a common topic on reenacting forums

Hi Bellew, I'm in Boone, NC. Glad to have you on here

ditto on the auto helmet, and yesteryear's mandrel + swage tools

That's the one I have, it looks lots nicer than that photo.

Sabre's suggestion stems from the proliferation of wrought iron nails in old buildings. it is quite possible that your nails are wrought, and therefore, of some value since there is effectively none being produced anymore. My suggestion is to keep them and if they turn out to be wrought, don't use them for a spoon, but something more "worthy" (entirely defined by you, may mean spoons). Test them by heating to a good yellow and playing with it. If it forges like butter, it's probably wrought

The picture above shows the identical location of the scar from the person that I mentioned in my other post, even down to the length.

Welcome aboard! Go to your CP (Upper right corner) edit your location. You never know who's nearby that might be a resource to you! Bladesmith's Forum Board (Powered by Invision Power Board) There's a weekly knife chat on this forum, you might want to check it out. I think its thursday evenings

I should think that by punching the hole and then drifting it one way, you would achieve the shape you are talking about. I saw what appeared to be a drift for pick heads on ebay, similar in concept to what I am suggesting you do. You would basically drive the drift in only as far as the taper, not to a straight portion. Make sense?