Jon Kerr

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About Jon Kerr

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    - Benfleet, Essex, UK
  • Interests
    Learning more about Blacksmithing!

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  1. A very helpful chap on FB gave me the details I was looking for
  2. Thanks Thomas. I just weighed it- its 20kg. Is it possible thats what the stamped "20" refers to? Does this also date the vice approximately given the introduction of the metric system? I tried the flour dusting but still cant make sense of it. Hopefully someone has a better eye than me! *EDIT* the text was upside down to the "20"! Threw me completely. I can now read "Mas* & Sons" "Stone****s".... any ideas? Google failing.
  3. Jaws are 4inches. Not sure on weight unless I stick it on the scales- what does that tell me? it has a number that looks like 20 stamped on the side, and text I cant identify. I'm almost sure one word says "GHOST". Any ideas anyone?
  4. Forgot to say, thanks everyone for the advice regarding the forge and the car springs..!
  5. I found a leg vice!!!!! We were wandering around the car boot sale on Saturday, and my wife pointed to something on the floor and said "Isn't that what you wanted?"..... and there it was. Its got some surface rust (or maybe just a good patina ) but the screw is well greased and looks completely free of damage. Jaws are pretty tidy, leg is slightly bent. The mounting plate etc is all perfect. The only damage is to the handle which is a bit mangled but useable, and easily replaceable should I ever feel the need. I managed to get the price to £40 which I think is a good price (as compared to eBay auction prices). Pictures to follow.
  6. http://www.hallowellco.com/nrba_fall_conference 2015 Machler.htm Thanks Rashelle! I just found this link, looks like a good method?
  7. I've picked up 3 old broken car coil springs during my trip to the car garage today. The only ones the guy gave me were a) painted black, and b) thin car variety, say 10-12mm diameter. Obviously I'm not complaining but next time I might ask if there are any bulkier van/4x4 ones with no paint. So- I've already read some posts on here regarding spring coatings, and I'm thinking I might go along the lines of very irresonsibly chucking them in a bonfire and burning the paint off from a safe distance. Poor planet... 1. What kinds of projects are these 10mm round spings useful for? They seem a little thin for punches and other tools. Is upsetting advisable to get to a more chunky diameter? Or more effor than its worth? Also, while I'm asking daft questions..... 2. Anyone got any tips for what a "Posh Jabod" (or similar side blast forge) might look like? There are a few side blast forges on eBay etc but very expensive, and I'd like something long enough that I can sit a side-drawing hood down into it. 3. Any design rules/guidelines for a sheet metal side blast that differ from a JABOD? 4. What do people usually line the bottom of the forge with? Dirt/clay like a jabod? Firebricks? or fancier refractory cement?
  8. This is absolutely stunning. Is there any guides/videos out there for how to forge the wolf head? I'd love to try this.
  9. Nice work Mudman! Look great and nice and neat as far as I can see. I feel your pain- I learnt to do this from 16mm square bar last week and it certainly is a workout! ..... now you have to do the second of the pair!
  10. Last week I finally made it along to the Much Hadham Forge for my first proper bit of blacksmithing training. I had a fantastic day with the resident blacksmith, Richard Maynard, and learnt a huge amount. My main objective for the day was to learn how to make tongs, including all the necessary basic techniques..... drawing out, punching, etc. The picture attached shows what I achieved during the day. I made 3 types of tongs- a "quick and dirty" simple twist and drill set, a set of bolt-jaw tongs from a set of tong blanks, and a set of normal tongs wtih 16mm square bar. I actually had time to make another set of normal tongs also which weren't pictures. The bolt jaw tongs are finished (might tweak the angle of the reins) but the rest still need some work- the rivets aren't all done so I can go back and round the handles nicely and finish them off. Great day and now I can't wait to get back to forging at home.
  11. Great advice thanks Frosty + Thomas. Feel much more reassured. I cannot WAIT to build this shop.
  12. Welcome! Best of luck getting started.
  13. Hi all, I'm looking for some advice and a bit of a sanity check regarding a workshop design. I'm fortunate enough to have space at the bottom of my garden for a 5x3m workshop. Originally my intention was to build a concrete block workshop on a concrete foundation. I was planning to build a forge inside, with a side-draw flue. Once I started to do my research regarding ventilation, and on reading other posts on this forum, I've been scared off of this due to the threat of carbon monoxide poisoning. I'm currently forging completely outdoors so its not been an issue so far. Do most people forge in a kind of "open" sided shop/lean-to? Surely the "blacksmith-shops-of-old were indoors? I'm a bit baffled by this. Furthermore, the cost of the concrete base is proving to be prohibitive. As such, I'm looking towards some of the really nice log cabins you can buy and planning to place it on a lighter concrete raft (after taking advice from many sources). As such, my latest plan is to build a timber log-cabin workshop with my forge under a lean-to on the side of the building, with a flue running through the lean-to roof to allow for a side-draft hood. Unfortunately thats less than idea in terms of exposure to the wind and rain, and noise for my poor neighbours.... I'd prefer to forge indoors if I can understand what level of ventilation might be acceptable? Obviously both methods will need appropriate fireproofing around the forge and anvil with cementboard etc, fire extinghuisher and running water on hand...... So, in summary, my two questions are: - Can I safely forge indoors with a side draft hood and double doors open? - Any tips for forging in/near a timber workshop safely?