Jon Kerr

Members
  • Content Count

    172
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Jon Kerr

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    - Benfleet, Essex, UK
  • Interests
    Learning more about Blacksmithing!

Recent Profile Visitors

722 profile views
  1. Absolutely amazing, even down to the colours on the scrap. I hope you're charging a fortune for these, Das, because they're worth it! Speaking of different guitar types- have you considered a "flying V"? Very recognisable guitar and would look cool in scrap.
  2. Is anyone planning to attend this? I'm seriously tempted as I've never been to a meet before. I'm very new though so I'd not be much use in terms of forging scythes and billhooks!
  3. I'm almost ashamed to say, I had to google framblewurtzer JUST to make sure it wasn't a real thing!
  4. I've been struggling to find a nice (cheap/free) quench bucket for a while (with a lid, to stop the canola oil going rancid so fast). Fortunately, I just sold the first axe I made, for £50! So I've treated myself to a very nice 25L (6 gallon) quench bucket with lid and handles (for £17. Gulp!).... and ordered 20L of oil to pour into it. I'll definitely be making more bits to sell to fund my new habit....
  5. Hi Goods- that's essentially exactly what I did (with the depths and movements exactly as you describe). What I definitely got wrong was that I heated the material way beyond critical temp before quenching (I forgot the "non magnetic" bit.). I also didn't do any normalising after forging to relieve any stresses/ improve grain structure. It does seem from online research that 4140 requires oil, also. I'm going to repeat my try; but this time, I will do a normalising cycle, quench in OIL at the proper critical temperature, and polish and run the colour repeatedly until the material has cooled. Hopefully this will result in no cracks! I'd really like to get this right so I can work on a set of long lasting punches to give myself some options in future.
  6. Thanks everyone for the advice. Think I'll go with Lattucino and Anvil's advice as, as Anvil says, I need to learn to heat treat anyway. Anvil- So, for a 4140 punch- you are quenching only half inch on the tip? Do you use Water or Oil? Then quickly polishing and watch the colours run to straw at the tip? I guess best practice is still to do as JHCC says and repeat the quench/polish/colour run until the colours stop running, to ensure the shank never gets hardened?
  7. Hi Jenny, Looks like you've possibly signed up to the forum just the work out the value of your bed frame. If you intend to stick around then please READ THIS FIRST and add a location into your profile. As for your bed frame. Are you SURE its wrought-iron? Many people call items "wrought iron": gates, fences, bed frames, etc, but more often than not is actually steel which has been hot worked into a pleasing aesthetic and welded together. These items are not made from real "wrought iron". Wrought Iron is a material which (generally) pre-dates the invention of the Bessamer Converter allowing mass production of modern day steel. Wrought Iron is close to pure iron but has slag/silica/glass inclusions which give it a grainy structure. The material is highly prized by blacksmiths due to its workability, forge weld-ability, historical value and rarity (since there hasn't been much made in the past hundred years or so). So.... do you have any reason think your bed is made from real wrought iron rather than steel? If it is wrought iron then its probably very valuable in material-weight alone, never mind its value as an artistic piece of furniture. Regards, Jon
  8. Ok thanks Pnut. I'm confused too. Can anyone please recommend a procedure for normalizing (if necessary), hardening, and tempering a 4140 punch? (in laymans terms, please).
  9. Certainly in that region yes (I was agitating it).
  10. Hah- thanks Thomas. I'm definitely still getting used to the new forge (and new fuel!). Its much easier in many ways..... but perhaps a little too easy to overheat. As you say, I'm currently using an electric blower. Hand crank blowers- aren't these incredibly expensive everywhere? I've been looking on eBay in the UK and they seem very difficult to find and very expensive. Unless I'm looking in the wrong places?
  11. I tried to tidy up my square punch with a grinder this weekend, and discovered..... a big crack. Doh. I worked away at it a bit to see if it was just at the surface, but it goes deep enough to be problematic. Obviously the punch is scrap, then. I performed the heat treatment wrong, in hindsight. I forgot about "critical heat" when quenching, and I believe it might have been way too hot during the quench. Is this the likely cause of such a crack? If not the above, then any suggestions what could have caused this? (EN19 steel, aka 4140) Should I have used oil for the quench? Or perhaps the core wasn't hot enough when forging? Or a bad job when tempering? Also- any tips for NOT burning steel....!?
  12. I see. Thanks JHCC. I'll remember that next time. Given that I didnt do that this time- am I best to throw this in the kitchen oven for a couple of hours at the tempering temp to be safe? Or should I start the heat treat again and do as you say?
  13. Sorry, I should have been more specific in my terminology. This was hardened by bri ging up to critical heat and quenching in water (which is allowable for EN19 according to my research). I quenched only the last couple of inches on the working end, then polished quickly with a grinder and allowed the residual heat to temper the tip to straw colour. Hopefully this is a reasonable approach- its how I was taught during a lesson at Much Hadham forge. (Sorry JLP, I also typo'd your initials in my previous post!)
  14. I made my first square punch last night. The steel is EN19 which I believe is close to 4140. Nothing special but anyone else's standards but its progress for me. It turned out well, although its not perfectly square so I'll have to cheat with a grinder to finish it off. I took advice from one of JPL's comments somewhere here and went for 9" in length. I heat treated using a residual heat method. Do people sometimes use a punch as a drift in the same tool? I need to punch some square holes but slightly larger than this first punch I've made, and I don't have a square drift yet.
  15. Quick evening session tonight- just a couple of hours, but the first time I've ever been able to do so thanks to the dedicated indoor workshop. Everything is set up ready to go and it doesnt bother the neighbours. It was brilliant. I'm planning to forge a hammer rack using mortise and tenon joints for assembly. Perhaps a bit over ambitious but it will be a good way to learn. To start with, I need a square punch, so thats what I made tonight. The steel is EN19 which I believe is similar to 1040. It turned out well, although its not perfectly square so I'll have to cheat with a grinder to finish it off. I took advice from one of JPL's comments somewhere here and went for 9" in length. I heat treated using a residual heat method. Do people sometimes use a punch as a drift in the same tool?