Jon Kerr

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Jon Kerr

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    - Benfleet, Essex, UK
  • Interests
    Learning more about Blacksmithing!

Recent Profile Visitors

557 profile views
  1. Jon Kerr

    Show me your vise

    Bril thanks! Love the dark look.
  2. Interested in the responses to this. I've just built a new shop with a plain concrete floor internally. I wanted this for fireproofing. The concrete was left rough so it wouldn't ever be slippy when wet. Only issue is the surface is always dusty/gritty as there is always a tiny amount of degredation occuring, especially when sweeping. Might be that my concrete contractors left too much surface water but whats done is done! Considering giving it a coat of epoxy resin paint to protect the surface. Anyone got any thoughts on that? I could leave the forging area without any paint if its likely to cause issues.
  3. Jon Kerr

    Show me your vise

    Hi Stephen, Any tips on what you used to clean and coat this vice? Looks great and I'd be tempted to try and copy the method.
  4. Indeed- I have approached them and been told they dont respond to enquiries. You either have to submit a planning application (not applicable since I'm trying to operate under permitted development), or consult a local 3rd party company for advice (again, hundreds of £). As I said I'm going to go with the hofi style 12" flue- at least it adheres to the guidance on places like anvilfire in terms of draw when conbined with a supersucker. The only concession I'm considering is whether I can use adjustable length flue so that I can raise and drop the chimney height whenever I use the forge, to keep my neighbours happy.
  5. My wife bought me this for Christmas- my first blacksmithing book. I personally found it absolutely excellent. Might be a bit basic for you JHCC, but for a beginner the descriptions and diagrams were fantastic, and there are loads of great ideas for early projects (including tools and tooling) to make. I'd recomment it to anyone.
  6. Thanks for the detailed post as always Frosty. Sorry to be a PITA with these threads. Its difficult without knowing anyone locally who has any experience. I'm trying to design and build a shop, forge, flue etc without around 3hrs total using a professional setup and its really difficult..... but I cant continue with the hobby till I resolve it. Everyone's advice is invaluable and greatly appreciated. I'm not trying to cut corners- I'm trying to do my research to improve my designs, ensure safety and yes, to an extent, save cash where possible. Your comments regarding the pictured design tell me everything I need to know. I'll go with the standard 12" flue and ensure I meet local building regulations. Thanks, Jon
  7. Of course. I'm not interested in fashion- only finding the best solution balancing performance, safety and my neighbours. I'm simply checking if theres an alternative as the one in the picture above looks very different and worked well according to the other thread. In the UK (no idea about elsewhere) we can build to a certain extent under "permitted development". No permits needed, as such. My building, so far, falls under this. I'm only having trouble finding out what the rules are for flues on outbuildings, locally. Indeed, although this forum is full of people generously sharing their hard-earned knowledge and experience for free. I'm only asking.
  8. Latticino- thanks for your reply! My local building codes for a flue assume you are using a high temp log burner or similar. As such, they insist on a twin skinned (and expensive) flue. Going by advice on this forum, thats completely unnecessary for a forge but I dont think theres any getting around it. I either build to code (twin skinned with specified distance to combustibles) or ignore the code and accept the insurance company might throw the book at me in the event of a fire. As it stands, I have 8" flue available to me already so if I can make that work somehow (rather than switching to single wall 12") then all the better in terms of satisfying local building codes. When I say "Get away with" I'm more concerned about local PLANNING permission rather than building regulation. Its very unclear to me according to info online what the laws are regarding installing a flue to an outbuilding, and the allowable height of such a flue. I've asked the local planning office who refuse to help unless to pay for, and submit, a planning application. Very unhelpful. My worry here is that I put a hole in my roof for a flue, buy all the appropriate (expensive) weatherproofing, a neighbour complains to the council and I have to pull it all down. If I install a 12" flue to the recommended height I'm not sure my neighbours, or the council, will be happy. That may be the way I HAVE to go, and just cross my fingers that nobody complains, but I'd like to explore other options. I've looked at Uri Hofi's side draw hoods and they look great, but they do still have very tall chimneys to get the pressure differential and encourage draw. His photos on the blueprint are for a very tall building! Mine is only 2.5m to the top of the pitched roof. I'll be using a coke forge so smoke should be less that charcoal/coal, right? Anyone else got any thoughts/experience with a forced air flue system like Gote's?
  9. Hi everyone, Firstly, apologies as usual for my newbie questions. I'm not trying to cut corners here, and I've done my research, but I'm not sure that the "recommended" solution is going to work for me for the reasons given below.... I'm in the process of building a new shop, and am now agonising over my flue.... My issues are as follows: Height of the chimney. I want to keep this to a bare minimum which is obviously contrary to the "ideal", which is as high as possible! Im concerned about local planning permission and dont want to bother the neighbours. Cost. I need to keep costs down (doesn't everyone?). I already have a couple of metres of twin wall 8" flue so it would be great to make use of that if possible. Running flue through the roof worries me given the rainy british climate, and all the associated flashing, storm collars, etc are EXPENSIVE. Having done my research on the "super sucker" hood, and taken advice of those on this forum, thats pointing towards a 12" single wall flue running straight through the roof and standing 4feet proud of the highest point of my building. I just don't think I'm going to get away with such a monstrous flue which planning permission or my neighbours..... (For info- my shop is 3.5m x 5m, log cabin construction, with two windows and a double door which will be opened when forging.) I did some more digging and found these images of gote's chimney. Unfortunately it looks like he's been inactive on this forum since 2017. Can anyone give me any advice on this type of forced are flue? Will this work with a side draft hood? Will 8" be acceptable in a forced are system? Any guidance on the type of shop vac/blower needed? Could I achieve the same with a shorter length of flue? Can this style of flue terminate below roof level thanks to the forced air? Any pros/cons of this style of flue? Any design guidelines? I'm wondering whether I can do the same as Gote. i would keep a similar height of the initial pipe, but the horizontal outlet would only be 1m to the wall. Would this still work? If it works, this would be perfect as it won't bother the neighbours, and I can use the 2x 1m lengths and 2x 45degree connectors of 8" flue that I already own.
  10. Is single wall ok even where it passes through the wall or roof? By building regulations in the UK it would seem you'd need twin wall but maybe in practice its not worth worrying about? How hot/cold are we talking?
  11. What kind of flue would you gus be using? Ive been assuming twin wall flue like you use for boilers or log burners but its insanely expensive. I managed to get some 8" stuff cheap which helped but if I need to switch to 12" its going to cost me £500+ !!!! Am I missing something? Is there a cheaper alternative?
  12. Thanks Frosty! Yeh the sound-dampening and thermal properties were major reason for going this way. Im really pleased with the building. I'll be adding a side draft hood into an 8inch flue going out the back wall and up. (Coke forge)
  13. I just have to limit my forging to reasonsble hours of the day. .... this is England, unfortunately we all live in top of each other as land is in such short supply.
  14. Well I've been busy lately. I laid my concrete slab a couple of weeks ago, and the timber for my shop turned up on Thursday morning at 7.30am. By 6pm the same day it was fully built! By lunchtime the next day the roof was insulated and tiled (felt shingles). Now I just need to buy my new forge from The Iron Dwarf as my JABOD was a casualty and went in the skip during the tidy up. (Deliberately.... it had served its purpose and needed an upgrade). I couldnt be happier.... I've been dreaming of having a workshop like this for years. Now I just cant wait to get back to Forging! I also started work on my new hardy plate "anvil", to complement by steel block anvil.
  15. A very helpful chap on FB gave me the details I was looking for