jimmy seale

look in the phone book for brake or clutch relining, maybe a truck stop shop?also maybe a place that dose leather work. i found some "rivits" that screwed togather but can't remember where. or maybe you could make the pins out of copper wire/tubing and peen? good luck,jimmy

well...here we go.i don't have alot of experience with hydo. pump parallel and compounding. i have work alot with mud pumps, so principles are the same(mostly)you can stall a lesser pump with a dominent one. that would have to be solved.also the more volume equils more pressure from a given orifice.parallel will give more volume while compounding gives more pressure.if the parallel volume/speed isn't the same the pumps are fighting each other.if compounded the lead pump is more volume and the final is for pressure. now that you are confussed....if you have two identical pumps, with syncronized start and speed, you have double the volume.which you could run one at a time or two....aslong as you don't have reverse feed through the off side.remember this is doghouse engeneering,and maynot apply to the real world. good luck,stay safe, and let us know how it goes..jimmy

i have some EXOTIC mesquite

talk about monkeys with machine guns.....although them trying to regroove their shoes soles was ingenous.....NOT!!

looks to me like a dimple tool for sheet metal...but what do i know?

i sure don't need special tools...nails,knives,screws,grinders,etc. have all had their turn of making me bleed.

your sure rough on material jk.....can't wait to see it done

i have used it some...mostly in the scrap yard. big tips and rough cuts but from my observations it will not cut as clean as oxy/acet. but then it could be me too.i am unsure about copper tubing. i know it will work but, but i know you arn't suppost to use it on nat gas.but what ever you use, use bigger feed pipe with a reg at the tank and then you can go smaller and use a reg at each station.also something to keep in mind. if the line goes accross a drive way or will have heavy loads go over it put it in a pipe while you bury it, good luck jimmy

prayers contenue from west texas, jimmy&mary

rich..that's just unsanitary! why would a old harley need a boat anchor ???

yeah..try that on some seasoned live oak....

good luck on the house hunt..hope the toys arrive on time and in good order

well..here goes.. in my limited experience,you would anneal already hardened pieces like files to soften then up for drilling,shaping and such.normalizing will help releave stress and grain growth, and should be done when your finished or when the forging session is over but the piece isn't done yet.as far as multuple hardenings (on steels that i use) when you reheat to critical to harden you lose any hardness you gained the first time. tempering is done way below the forging temp. i usually start low and cycle till i get the color i want.i am sure more knowledeable folks will give you a better/more indepth definition,as i have little knowledge of alot of tool steels. yes too many heat cycles will hurt but with experence comes knowledge and speed also watch your heat...carbon/alloy steels don't like heat that mild will use, use a magnet to find critical and in time you will know what color is right for forging. have fun and i hope this helps some,jimmy

always look for roadside treasure! but don't do it on the freeway. also some can be found in and around dumpsters,land fills,and such but always ask premission,and get the word out..ya never know where the next lead will send you.the more eyes you have out there the better,also there are the mystery pieces that just show up. happy hunting,jimmy

well...shiny is shiny. 5160 is good but,for a shinner i'd use 1080. i use some plow disc that "is" 1080 and it works well. also it's thinner so less work will needed to be done. but for a bowie 5160 is great for being a heavy blade and better for rough use.any way show us what ya come up with.

well i never seen a handle with out a slit but, if it fits tight and the eye has a hour glass shape to it.. go for it just check i time to time and make sure the wedge stays put

here is something i learned years ago..shave the wooden wedge down so it will fit through the eye,then start it in the slit,get the head started on and bounce the handle on the floor till the hammer bounces.it will only take one time of doing it this way to know what i mean,any way,the wood wedge will already be started so drive it in,trim it off and set steel wedge at 45 degrees from the other one and drive it in and tada your done.this way you don't have to cut the slit to wedge it..let us know how it goes or if i can make the instructions more complicated i'll try

price it high enough to make them squeal!!you can always come down but never go up,some times if they think the got to you,they will actualy pay a decent wage...but if you break even, you will have gained experience which is a good thing

looks like that may be rough on the hide..looks great any way :D

hey woodsmith, just an idea,if you are going to fill the base up with junk and use sand to fill in between,and you have the room...how about welding a collar in the top with a plug to be able to add more sand to top off when it settles. just an idea, jimmy

hey fiery, something for your consideration,i have a over head plug and to keep the cord from unpluging i put in a heavy cup hook and put a washer on the cord with a cable tie. it works well to keep cord pluged in and keeps the grinder (4 1/2") from hitting the floor and breaking the disc. jimmy

when i was a kid dad tought me to make nail letter openers out if scaffing nails. hammered them out cold and then blued them.

outstanding dr.jim, if you don't watch it you may get good at this sort of stuff. looks great. jimmy

also watch your distance when heating.too close and you can wash out the steel

prayers contienue from us, bless you little one.